Legend Calipers swap
All 4 wheels - Rotors/Pads
Complete Brake Fluid Flush (using Motul 5.1, 1.5 liters)

Haven't done this before but have instructions for each and will have assistance over Memorial Day weekend to do the work. What order do I do these 3 in?

 

well u would take the wheels off
then removed your calipers from the rotors leaving the lines in tact.

remove your rotors and replace them with the new ones.

then bleed the lines and replace the calipers using a 1 man bleeder tool in this order
TL/CL1995-04 LF, RF, RR, LR

 

i would do all four wheels and rotors, with putting on the calipers at the same time, but not hooked up yet though, then once done switch the lines over to the legend calipers then bleed and flush the system (and what is it with people thinking paying for high temp brake fluid will do you any good for a street car, your pads will glaze and melt before the brake fluid ever boils, especially if changed on a regular basis [only has to be like every 2 years or 30k miles, which ever comes first] to rid the system of any water
if anything i would say most people be alright with dot 4 which is also alot more easily available

now if you track the car that is another story though for dot 5.1 fluid being mandatory

 

The brake fluid wasn't much more than the Castrol GT-LMA I looked at, even at the store, for a full brake system flush. So.....I bought it .

 

I dont recommend DOT5 fluid for the street. DOT5 is very hygroscopic, so plan on flushing the fluid more frequently compared to DOT4.

 

just an fyi civic

DOT 5 does not absorb any water at all, it is a synthetic fluid, fine on a race car where it is flushed after every race (if not multiple times on a weekend), but a big nono on a car that you expect to be a DD and reliable at the same time

but 5.1 does though, which if you must go with a 5 for the street, is the one i would go with, since it will not leave pockets of moisture and such in the brake lines and such, then once flushed any moisture will come straight out

 

your money afterall (but yeah i use the carquest brand stuff, and i have no problems with it, just a relabeled name brand stuff, not quite sure which one though,, and cheap at the same time

 

Yes, but DOT5 actually has a lower boiling point then DOT4. Its also a bitch to bleed. And since it doesnt absorb water, if there is any water in the system it will puddle in one spot, and that can cause corrosion. And DOT5 is not compatible with ABS.

DOT5.1 has a much higher boiling point then DOT3/4, but it is hygroscopic. Granted, it will still boil at a higher temp then DOT3/4 when water is in it.

BTW, DOT5 does not mix with DOT3/4. You need to clean the system out really well. This is a good write-up:

http://www.type2.com/library/brakes/dot5.htm

DOT3 still is the most hygroscopic. Stay away from it. I use DOT4 and only DOT4.

 

yes, needs a really good flushing (and hope it does not take out the seals on the ABS pump either over time, not a cheap part btw; $1000+ easily)
but that is why i like having a power bleeder at work, with brake reservoir specific caps for different cars, so easy to hook up

but yeah if changing over, don't forget to also have the ABS valves cycle, gotta get everything out of there, otherwise just a mixing issue again

 

also no workie on the link civic

 

So should I back out of the 5.1 and go with DOT 4? I thought I could just use the 5.1 without an issue..

I need to let the ABS valves cycle if changing over to 5.1?? And how do I do that...

 

i think so, then you do not have to worry about changing it quite as often
btw read on top of the brake fluid reservoir cap, it should say only use DOT 3 or 4, with absolute no mention of 5.1 or anything (and yes it was out easily a good 10-15 years ago, so if approved it would have been mentioned)

as far as cycling, scan tool is the best way, but you can also just go do a couple of abs lockup stops (but you gotta make sure to get each wheel a couple of times though) but not a guarantee of being able to get all the old fluid out, like how the scan tool can (you are flushing it, while each valve is cycled)
but any ways for those abs stops, gravel does wonders for activating it

 

Do I need to cycle it because I'm doing a general flush OR because I'm switching over to 5.1??

 

cause you are switching over, and it would still be 3 or 4 in there, so the first time they cycled it would get mixed with the 5.1 (and you want to intentionally activate it, so you can go straight home and flush it out)

now if you where doing just a general/service, you normally do not need to cycle them, because the fluid in there actually stays quite clean, compared to the stuff in the master reservoir
here's another thing to think about, what happens if you are on a road trip, and somehow spring a leak (normally does not happen, but it can occasionally, especially if you live in the northeast and all the corrosion they have); will you be able to find replacement 5.1 fluid, or only 3 or 4 fluid??? just something to ponder

 

I also say DOT4 is best (for your application assuming your not heavy track), don't think just because its a higher number that its best for your application... (this is true for lots of applications...)
If you want more aggressive breaking power (i know some will contradict me on this but...) go with Russel or "other" SS break lines. you will be happy with that, I don't have them on my CL (yet) but will, I do have them on my EM2 with DOT4, Hawk HPS pads and power slot rotors and never have had an issue. I love that it is so responsive and there is absolutely no sponge.

 

Well, since you can mix 5.1 with 3 or 4, what is the big deal???

 

lol, but yeah goodridge seems to be another good brand also, but yeah the responsiveness increase is nice once you actually get them on (even my little sister [not really, but is like one to me] is just starting to learn how to drive, and she noticed that my brakes where quite a bit more responsive then other cars)

 

anyways read this http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml

about half way down under this section:
James Walker's Notes on Brake Fluid

recommends against even changing the type of fluid from OEM specs, and honda approves DOT 3 and 4, not 5.1, so if you want to possible have expensive brake problems, it's your money afterall (and not a place to really be experimenting on a otherwise street vehicle)

so maybe the fluids them selves are compatabile, but the seals may not be though, so still recommend staying away from that 5.1

 

I agree with this statement about seal(s). You could find out in 300-30,000 miles that you Fuqed up, and now have to put $1000+ into restoring, rebuilding, replacing, ect break component(s), and that's may 2cts