gaping46and2

iTrader: (2)

Just got my rear brake pads replaced at the dealer and was wondering if there was any kind of break-in measures that are needed for OEM pads and OEM rotors. I know I've read about aftermarket slotted/drilled rotors and aftermarket pads, but does any of that apply to OEM parts? I've noticed the car shaking during braking at speeds above 60mph and it certainly feels like the rotors are warped, but I don't feel anything driving around in the city while braking. Should I have got the rotors turned at the same time the pads were installed? I've got my car at a dealer in Houston right now waiting for a new OPDS unit till monday and am driving a loaner 3g TL, and notice the braking power is much better than the stock CL brakes. Should I get them to check out the rear rotors while they've got it?

BigLizard

Whenever brake pads are changed out for new ones, it's always a good idea to turn the rotors as well.

If you are running around with new pads and warped rotors...expect the pads to go bad soon.

gaping46and2

iTrader: (2)

Is it possible for new pads to warp rotors? I have never had warped rotors on my CL, not in the 2 years I have had it. Not until the other day when the rear pads were replaced did I feel any kind of shaking during braking, but only at higher speeds.

BigLizard

New pads will only warp the rotor under heavy consistant braking. Your pads will glaze over, which it turn will make the rotors get worse.

Heavy braking + lots of heat = warped rotors.

SuperTrooper169

iTrader: (2)

The new pads are smooth, so because there's grooves in the rotors because they most likely need to be turned, the pads not making 100% contact with the rotor surface, only the top of the grooves, making the shaking occur. Cut the rotors and you should be good.

Starter

Why? If the rotors are not warped, there is absolutely no reason to turn the rotors. Except of course, to line the pockets of the shop. The new pads will, within a few miles, wear to the configuration of the rotors.

BigLizard

This is true, the pads will take form of the rotors, but the pads will wear out sooner if the rotors are not turned. Weither we like it or not...after so many miles and even when we can't feel it, the rotors are not truely surfaced correctly. It's always in our best interest to turn the rotors when the pads are changed out.

Starter

The rotors are either warped or they aren't. If not, don't turn them. As for the very small difference in how long the new pads last, what is the difference in price between a set of pads and turning the rotors? Unless you're buying the most expensive pads they're cheaper. Not to mention that when you turn the rotors you're taking more material off them and they will need to be replaced sooner.

gaping46and2

iTrader: (2)

Well, I will be replacing the brake setup sometime in the future to something like rotora's w/ an aftermarket pad and SS brake lines and possibly some legend calipers. I told the dealer to go ahead and turn the rotors while they had it in for waranty work. Just waiting to get a call from them so I can go pick it up. As nice as the TL is, I miss my CL way too much, it just fits better.

gaping46and2

iTrader: (2)

The dealer checked out the brakes, drove my car, and said it was the front brakes causing the shaking while braking. The shaking could be felt in the steering wheel, therefore it is from the front brakes. They want ~$350 including labour to replace the rotors/pads. Is it time to think about getting those rotora's?

PimpCL23

if you can afford it, then go for it! if not.. get Brembos like everyone else

are the rotors that bad to the point where they have to be replaced? a simple resurface should be good

gaping46and2

iTrader: (2)

I honestly don't believe anything is wrong with the front brakes. I've never had any problems with warped rotors on this car, and have never slammed on the brakes, especially after I had the rear brake pads replaced. Think I should still take the rear rotors to a shop and get them turned, or would that really be a waste of money/time? Could you still feel shaking in the steering wheel if the rear rotors are warped?

Sun Diego CL-S

so what's up, did you install yet.? i don't see any pics.

gaping46and2

iTrader: (2)

no car, no pics
Will have my car back at 9am.

Anyone have any ideas what's up with my brakes? Can warped rear rotors cause the steering wheel to shake when braking at higher speeds, or is that a symptom of front rotors only?

Starter

It would be very unusual for warped rear rotors to be very noticable through the steering wheel. I suspect it's the fronts. The question is, if you're going to upgrade the brakes anyway, why pay $300+ bucks to have the stock ones done now? Live with it till you can order the upgrade you want.

gaping46and2

iTrader: (2)

That's exactly what I was thinking. Am looking into getting some rebuilt Legend calipers and some Rotora slotted rotors from Excelerate, probably some SS brake lines as well.

milkman

i just ordered oem brake pads for the front and back. I also ordered front calipers because i have like 60,000 miles and i also have the vibration in the steering wheel in heavy braking. I could have just changed the pads all around but at about 6000 miles into having installed the new brake pads or half a year the pads while be excessively worn for such a short service life and the steering wheel vibration known as warping will return. so to avoid that just change the front rotors its not hard. parts cost me 200 from http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp. Thats with shipping included. i was quoted 350 not including tax at the dealer. thats with labor in nyc. i decided to do it myself. its not like i cant do it i just thought maybe it would be cheaper and faster for them to do the brake job. but doing it myself saves me atleast 150 dollars. and ill take those savings any day of the week

agranado

omg i love your avatar

BigLizard

OEM rotors and pads suck period. I put the Rotora OEM slotted rotors and pads on and its a HUGE difference over stock. I'll never go back.

BigLizard

that is pretty bitchin'. I'd LMAO if I saw a CL bouncing down the road.

SleekCLS

what about rotors from R1 Concepts? its like 200 bux for the WHOLE set of it, 8 pads and 4 rotors, for about 200 bux, slotted and drilled or slotted only upto you. I had a BAD experience buying rotors off of ebay and will never do it again but has anyone EVERY bought R1's?

Starter

If the rotors are warped, changing the pads will do nothing to help. Turning the rotors, new rotors or, better yet, better rotors, are the only solution.

milkman

I just changed my factory oem pads and rotors with oem pads and rotors. the oem parts work fine if you do a proper brake in. (search for rotor and pad brake in) As long as your a casual driver with the occasional panic stop and ur night racing from red light to red light the brake pads and rotors last for about 60,000 miles give or take. but if ur racing then all bets are off and u should go get ur self some after markets. for me 70 bucks a rotor was a bit pricey. but that depends on the person. besides the cl is coming to the end of its useful life 4 me its on the the new tl 4 me.

milkman

Brake update. Well it's been 4 years now, and I have just replaced my front pads again with oem pads. The oem lasted 4 years. That's a considerable amount of time. The oem pads are still good to go in my book. No warping and no noise. Also very little brake dust. I will also be doing the rears probably tomorrow as long as the weather holds up. I also purchased the Phoenix Systems V12 or V-12 depending on how you like to see it. I used this device to bleed the brakes.
Let me give a proper review to this one man brake bleeding system.
First of all let's cut straight to the results. This product works like a champion. My brakes are rock solid. Or as some people would say. "hard like a Roc-willer". Anyway own to the review. Phoenix Systems sells 3 types of bleeders. A low priced DIY for like $60 v12 for $120 the V12 injector and the Max pro for like $299. I purchased the mid priced $120 v12. It is just a few dollars more than the DIY and I usually buy good tools.
So how does it work. It can do all your brake bleeding needs and some u don't even know you need. It does pressure bleeding brake fluid flushing through the vacuum bleeding and something that I though was really cool which is reverse fluid injection. It also bleeds our master cylinders and the slave clutch. Some people on this board may be familiar with the mitivac but this is not quite like that. Anyway on to the review. Phoenix Systems says this is a ten minute brake job but I would say not at first. The system does come with an Instructional DVD but there is nothing like first hand experience and I don't ha e a DVD player in my garage or driveway. So after watching the DVD I'm ready to go.
I was changing the brakes so the tires are off and the brakes are changed. Now for the bleeding. You hook up the adapters provided and flush the calipers through the bleed port. I used the vacuum method to remove the old dirty fluid. Then I reverse bleed the calipers. For a more detailed specific guide I can be pm'd. After all the bleeding my brakes are harder than they have ever been. When I say hard I mean the brakes are rock solid. The Phoenix v12 has definitely earned my respect and if anyone is thinking about getting one I would say your making the right choice.
This review may be long but my like new brakes really impressed me to right this review.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Holy thread resurection but I cant fault you since you are following up on your own post. Even if it has been 4 years.

milkman

Lol. It's true I did dig in the archives a bit but I have been a member if the board for some time now and I thought I would do a follow up with real time progressive reporting. I like people to be able to follow the results of installation over time for all the products I encounter. In this case the OEM brake pads and rotors.
I also purchased a few new tools to improve my maintenance abilities such as the Phoenix systems brake bleed kit. I hope I have helped people on the board like other people have helped me resolve problems with my car.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I think Im mostly surprised that you didnt warp your rotors.

milkman

I know. I had to change the pads and rotors originally due to warping but the second time around there was no warping. I did do an excellent break in. Hopefully these rotors will be good for this set of brake pads