NOS on otherwise stock 6MT CLS

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Old 08-19-2002, 01:10 PM
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NOS on otherwise stock 6MT CLS

Was gonna get a NOS nitrous kit on here with an AEM CAI... that's about it until xmas time comes around... what does everyone think? just a 50 shot... engine has 1200 miles on it already (took a roadtrip to Austin this past w/end)
Old 08-19-2002, 01:49 PM
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Few questions..

WHY???

The CLS is a very nice car of rolling around town, but if you want to go fast why don't you get a lighter car then put NOS in that?

Also, how long do you plan on keeping this car anyway?
Old 08-19-2002, 01:56 PM
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On my second tranny, I would think about that decision considering if you blow something up you've voided the warranty.
Old 08-19-2002, 01:57 PM
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do it.

just make sure it's installed and used properly.

but yes, do it.
Old 08-19-2002, 02:13 PM
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If used right, it shouldn't be a problem. As long as you take it out completely whenever you go into the dealer for service or warranty work. While a dealer can't void the warranty by seeing it, they could see it & then test the engine for NOS, find it, then your warranty on the engine would be toast. On the 6 speed a 75 shot would be good. The 50, & 65 are ok with the auto, but the 6 speed should be able to get the 75, or possiably more.
Old 08-19-2002, 02:20 PM
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definately do it....
Old 08-21-2002, 02:09 PM
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where's the guy who already has NOS on his? I want to know how his is running... also anybody an expert on NOS on here?
Old 08-21-2002, 02:14 PM
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Learn how to drive the damn car first!!


Your "6MT clutch is crap..." thread
Old 08-21-2002, 02:40 PM
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i had a 100 shot on mine but took it out in order to replace the tranny under warranty.
Old 08-21-2002, 04:09 PM
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Originally posted by CLS2001_97124
Few questions..

WHY???

The CLS is a very nice car of rolling around town, but if you want to go fast why don't you get a lighter car then put NOS in that?

Also, how long do you plan on keeping this car anyway?
Well it's because I realyl awnt a car that can be competetive when I want it to be and still be a nice ballin' car to just roll around town... it's always nice to have the HP ready at the touch of a button... esp. a car that can probably run a 14 flat with just bolt ons in the 6MT model... I'm thinking a time of high 13s or low 14s is something I'd like to have... I plan on keeping this car for about 4-5 years... That's why I'm doing more research on what things I need to do to protect the engine and keep fuel rates and strength going well to match...
Old 08-21-2002, 04:10 PM
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Originally posted by EricS
Learn how to drive the damn car first!!


Your "6MT clutch is crap..." thread
:pfawk:
Read a more carefully... I race it fine... smooth driving on daily conditions is what th rpoblem with the clutch is...
Old 08-21-2002, 04:48 PM
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Protect engine? Don't do nitrous.

They can tell when you take the car in if you've been spraying or not. They will make a note of it in their records, and may not necessarily even tell you they notice it.

If you plan on keeping the car bag it. If your engine blows or something goes wrong, when they open that block up, its gonna be covered from residue.

If you want something fast, a CL-S isn't the way to go. Too heavy. Made to be a highway cruiser.
Old 08-21-2002, 11:45 PM
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Originally posted by civic4982
where's the guy who already has NOS on his? I want to know how his is running... also anybody an expert on NOS on here?
I have had nitrous on my car now for about 6 months. It has been very good to me. I have kept the kit jetted between 55-65 hp (because of the auto tranny). Since you have a 6 speed I say go for about 75-85 hp. The motor can handle it. Here are a few answers to some of your questions>>>>>

DISCLAIMER: This post is quite long but very informative. If you are not interested in nitrous, please do not waste your time reading this.

How does nitrous oxide work?

>>Nitrous oxide is a chemical composed of two parts oxygen, one part nitrogen. When stored in a nitrous bottle, it is in a liquid state under pressure. When this liquid is released into the atmosphere, it instantly becomes a very cold gas. When it is injected into and engine, you are in effect supplying the motor with lots of cold air. In order to maintain the proper air to fuel ratio in the cylinders, you must add fuel to the mixture as well. You can add fuel together with the nitrous in the same nozzle (this is called a wet kit) or you can add fuel through your existing fuel injectors by increasing fuel pressure (this is called a dry kit). This large volume of cold air and fuel being injected into the motor creates more horsepower.

>>The amount of nitrous and fuel are controlled by precise orifices in the nozzle called jets. This controls the volume of nitrous (and fuel on a wet kit) which is actually injected into motor. Different sized jets are available for different applications. Simply changing these jets allows you to change the horsepower level of your nitrous kit, and allows you to tune the air/fuel ratio if necessary.

What does a nitrous kit consist of?

>>The main components of the kit are the nitrous bottle, nitrous lines, nitrous solenoids, fogger nozzle, and associated wiring. The bottle is normally mounted in the trunk and stainless steel braided lines are run into the engine compartment. They are connected to the solenoids that operate like an electric valve to turn the nitrous flow on and off. Then the solenoids are connected to the fogger nozzle on the intake manifold where the nitrous is actually injected into the motor. If you are using a wet nitrous kit, you will also have a line running from you fuel rail to the fogger nozzle to supply fuel with the nitrous. A dry kit includes an adapter that increases fuel pressure via the fuel pressure regulator. The solenoids are wired to a switch within reach of the driver where he can turn it on and off.

How do you use nitrous?

>>Nitrous relies on the engines existing airflow to draw it through the intake manifold into the cylinders.
Most cars require that you only use nitrous if the engine speed is over 3000rpm so that there is enough engine vacuum to draw in the mixture. On a supercharged application where the engine airflow is already very high at lower rpms, you can activate it sooner. You must be at full throttle whenever using the nitrous. This allows the engine computer to add more fuel and reduce engine timing. As a general rule, you will use the nitrous as soon as traction permits off the line. Traction becomes a serious problem when you have 60-100hp at a touch of a button. A 10lb bottle of nitrous will last 6-10 quarter mile runs depending on how much horsepower shot you are using.

Should I use a wet kit or dry kit?

>>Everybody has their own opinion on this topic and there are advantages and disadvantages to both types of kits.

>>Dry kits are easy to install since they don't require you to run any fuel lines. All of the fuel required by the kit is supplied by raising fuel pressure through your fuel injectors to 70-80psi. There is a far less chance of backfires since you are not injecting raw fuel into the intake manifold and it can't puddle. Dry kits are limited because your fuel injectors and fuel pump can only supply so much fuel at this high pressure.

>>I believe a dry kit is the best choice for applications from 60-100hp. The kit is simple, safe, and reliable. If you want to exceed 100hp, then a wet kit is better since you will be able to control the fuel delivery better. . although I wouldn't reccommend running that much nitrous on a 3.2 liter motor. Therefore, a dry kit is perfect for our cars.

What are the advantages of nitrous oxide?

>>The main advantages of using nitrous oxide are the price and performance. There is no modification that will give you more horsepower per dollar gains that nitrous will. It is relatively easy to install as well. Nitrous also generates instant horsepower when you hit the button. You have an instant horsepower gain where naturally aspirated, supercharged, or turbocharged motors must build engine rpm and boost to make more horsepower. This is especially effective for quarter mile drag racing since you get a large surge of power off the line to get the car moving. A 60hp nitrous kit will drop your ET's by about one second.

What are the disadvantages of nitrous oxide?

>>The major disadvantage of using nitrous oxide is having to refill the bottle. Some people say that "it's not there all the time" and that is somewhat true. Other engine mods will be active all of the time. I consider nitrous to be an addition to my existing modifications, not a substitute.

>>There can be some danger if the nitrous bottle pressure becomes too high. This can be caused by overheating the bottle, overfilling of the bottle, or leaving the bottle in direct sunlight on a hot day. There is a safety blowoff valve on the nitrous bottle to release the contents to atmosphere at 1500 psi.

>>Some people claim that nitrous will "blow you motor" but that is only a result of improper use or installation. When a nitrous kit is installed and tuned properly, it s perfectly safe for your motor at the manufacturer's recommended horsepower level. If you decide to increase the horsepower of your kit beyond the manufacturer's recommendations, then you do so at your own risk. You have nobody to blame but yourself if your engine is damaged.

Do I need to upgrade my exhaust?

>>Upgrading the exhaust system is always a good idea when modifying an engine. I would strongly recommend you upgrade the exhaust system from the headers back. Headers would help a lot if they are within your budget. If you intend on using more than 60hp or if you already have engine modifications, you might need to consider upgrading the fuel pump as well.

What optional accessories should I consider for my nitrous kit?

>>The first is the wide-open-throttle switch. This is standard with all kits but many choose not to install it. This switch only allows the nitrous to be activated when you are full throttle. Activating the nitrous system at idle or part throttle will likely result in a backfire and serious engine damage. This is a must!

>>A nitrous bottle pressure gauge will let you monitor and maintain the proper pressure of your nitrous bottle. If the pressure it too high, the car will run lean. If the pressure is too low, it will run rich. Nitrous kits are designed to run with the bottle pressure between 950 and 1050 psi.

>>A bottle heater is critical if you want to use nitrous on cool days or cold nights. The bottle pressure must be 950-1050 psi. The pressure will drop below this if the weather is too cold. The bottle heater will maintain the temperature for optimum performance. NOS makes a bottle heater which is thermostatically controlled - just turn it on and forget about it. Other heaters have no automatic control and must be manually shut off when the desired pressure is reached.

>>A bottle blanket is an insulated cover for your bottle that helps hold the heat in and requires the bottle heater to cycle on less often. It looks nice, it's cheap, and functional.

>>A remote bottle valve is a nice luxury to have. Normally you would have to turn the bottle valve on each time before using the nitrous, then turn it off afterwards. This valve allows you to keep the bottle open in the trunk at all times and have it ready for use at a flick of a switch. This also gives you a secondary method of stopping nitrous flow to the motor should a nitrous solenoid fail.

>>A second nitrous bottle (or a larger 15lb bottle) is a must for serious racers. This way you are never caught empty handed. There are times when you just can't get the bottle refilled when you need it.

Summary

Nitrous Oxide can be a safe and cost effective method of increasing horsepower. Nitrous oxide should be considered as a modification for racing purposes only. It's only purpose is to get you to the end of the quarter mile before the other guy. There are certain safety and reliability issues associated with racing. Nitrous is not for everybody. Some prefer to perform smaller modifications which they can feel all of the time. Others want an all out rush of power for drag racing. That is something you have to decide for yourself. If your budget is big enough, you can have both. I can tell you from experience that the feeling of a 65 hp surge at the touch of a button is addictive. Once you've tried it, you won't want to give it up.
Old 08-22-2002, 12:16 AM
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S

I have had nitrous on my car now for about 6 months. It has been very good to me. I have kept the kit jetted between 55-65 hp (because of the auto tranny). Since you have a 6 speed I say go for about 75-85 hp. The motor can handle it. Here are a few answers to some of your questions>>>>>

DISCLAIMER: This post is quite long but very informative. If you are not interested in nitrous, please do not waste your time reading this.

How does nitrous oxide work?

>>Nitrous oxide is a chemical composed of two parts oxygen, one part nitrogen. When stored in a nitrous bottle, it is in a liquid state under pressure. When this liquid is released into the atmosphere, it instantly becomes a very cold gas. When it is injected into and engine, you are in effect supplying the motor with lots of cold air. In order to maintain the proper air to fuel ratio in the cylinders, you must add fuel to the mixture as well. You can add fuel together with the nitrous in the same nozzle (this is called a wet kit) or you can add fuel through your existing fuel injectors by increasing fuel pressure (this is called a dry kit). This large volume of cold air and fuel being injected into the motor creates more horsepower.

>>The amount of nitrous and fuel are controlled by precise orifices in the nozzle called jets. This controls the volume of nitrous (and fuel on a wet kit) which is actually injected into motor. Different sized jets are available for different applications. Simply changing these jets allows you to change the horsepower level of your nitrous kit, and allows you to tune the air/fuel ratio if necessary.

What does a nitrous kit consist of?

>>The main components of the kit are the nitrous bottle, nitrous lines, nitrous solenoids, fogger nozzle, and associated wiring. The bottle is normally mounted in the trunk and stainless steel braided lines are run into the engine compartment. They are connected to the solenoids that operate like an electric valve to turn the nitrous flow on and off. Then the solenoids are connected to the fogger nozzle on the intake manifold where the nitrous is actually injected into the motor. If you are using a wet nitrous kit, you will also have a line running from you fuel rail to the fogger nozzle to supply fuel with the nitrous. A dry kit includes an adapter that increases fuel pressure via the fuel pressure regulator. The solenoids are wired to a switch within reach of the driver where he can turn it on and off.

How do you use nitrous?

>>Nitrous relies on the engines existing airflow to draw it through the intake manifold into the cylinders.
Most cars require that you only use nitrous if the engine speed is over 3000rpm so that there is enough engine vacuum to draw in the mixture. On a supercharged application where the engine airflow is already very high at lower rpms, you can activate it sooner. You must be at full throttle whenever using the nitrous. This allows the engine computer to add more fuel and reduce engine timing. As a general rule, you will use the nitrous as soon as traction permits off the line. Traction becomes a serious problem when you have 60-100hp at a touch of a button. A 10lb bottle of nitrous will last 6-10 quarter mile runs depending on how much horsepower shot you are using.

Should I use a wet kit or dry kit?

>>Everybody has their own opinion on this topic and there are advantages and disadvantages to both types of kits.

>>Dry kits are easy to install since they don't require you to run any fuel lines. All of the fuel required by the kit is supplied by raising fuel pressure through your fuel injectors to 70-80psi. There is a far less chance of backfires since you are not injecting raw fuel into the intake manifold and it can't puddle. Dry kits are limited because your fuel injectors and fuel pump can only supply so much fuel at this high pressure.

>>I believe a dry kit is the best choice for applications from 60-100hp. The kit is simple, safe, and reliable. If you want to exceed 100hp, then a wet kit is better since you will be able to control the fuel delivery better. . although I wouldn't reccommend running that much nitrous on a 3.2 liter motor. Therefore, a dry kit is perfect for our cars.

What are the advantages of nitrous oxide?

>>The main advantages of using nitrous oxide are the price and performance. There is no modification that will give you more horsepower per dollar gains that nitrous will. It is relatively easy to install as well. Nitrous also generates instant horsepower when you hit the button. You have an instant horsepower gain where naturally aspirated, supercharged, or turbocharged motors must build engine rpm and boost to make more horsepower. This is especially effective for quarter mile drag racing since you get a large surge of power off the line to get the car moving. A 60hp nitrous kit will drop your ET's by about one second.

What are the disadvantages of nitrous oxide?

>>The major disadvantage of using nitrous oxide is having to refill the bottle. Some people say that "it's not there all the time" and that is somewhat true. Other engine mods will be active all of the time. I consider nitrous to be an addition to my existing modifications, not a substitute.

>>There can be some danger if the nitrous bottle pressure becomes too high. This can be caused by overheating the bottle, overfilling of the bottle, or leaving the bottle in direct sunlight on a hot day. There is a safety blowoff valve on the nitrous bottle to release the contents to atmosphere at 1500 psi.

>>Some people claim that nitrous will "blow you motor" but that is only a result of improper use or installation. When a nitrous kit is installed and tuned properly, it s perfectly safe for your motor at the manufacturer's recommended horsepower level. If you decide to increase the horsepower of your kit beyond the manufacturer's recommendations, then you do so at your own risk. You have nobody to blame but yourself if your engine is damaged.

Do I need to upgrade my exhaust?

>>Upgrading the exhaust system is always a good idea when modifying an engine. I would strongly recommend you upgrade the exhaust system from the headers back. Headers would help a lot if they are within your budget. If you intend on using more than 60hp or if you already have engine modifications, you might need to consider upgrading the fuel pump as well.

What optional accessories should I consider for my nitrous kit?

>>The first is the wide-open-throttle switch. This is standard with all kits but many choose not to install it. This switch only allows the nitrous to be activated when you are full throttle. Activating the nitrous system at idle or part throttle will likely result in a backfire and serious engine damage. This is a must!

>>A nitrous bottle pressure gauge will let you monitor and maintain the proper pressure of your nitrous bottle. If the pressure it too high, the car will run lean. If the pressure is too low, it will run rich. Nitrous kits are designed to run with the bottle pressure between 950 and 1050 psi.

>>A bottle heater is critical if you want to use nitrous on cool days or cold nights. The bottle pressure must be 950-1050 psi. The pressure will drop below this if the weather is too cold. The bottle heater will maintain the temperature for optimum performance. NOS makes a bottle heater which is thermostatically controlled - just turn it on and forget about it. Other heaters have no automatic control and must be manually shut off when the desired pressure is reached.

>>A bottle blanket is an insulated cover for your bottle that helps hold the heat in and requires the bottle heater to cycle on less often. It looks nice, it's cheap, and functional.

>>A remote bottle valve is a nice luxury to have. Normally you would have to turn the bottle valve on each time before using the nitrous, then turn it off afterwards. This valve allows you to keep the bottle open in the trunk at all times and have it ready for use at a flick of a switch. This also gives you a secondary method of stopping nitrous flow to the motor should a nitrous solenoid fail.

>>A second nitrous bottle (or a larger 15lb bottle) is a must for serious racers. This way you are never caught empty handed. There are times when you just can't get the bottle refilled when you need it.

Summary

Nitrous Oxide can be a safe and cost effective method of increasing horsepower. Nitrous oxide should be considered as a modification for racing purposes only. It's only purpose is to get you to the end of the quarter mile before the other guy. There are certain safety and reliability issues associated with racing. Nitrous is not for everybody. Some prefer to perform smaller modifications which they can feel all of the time. Others want an all out rush of power for drag racing. That is something you have to decide for yourself. If your budget is big enough, you can have both. I can tell you from experience that the feeling of a 65 hp surge at the touch of a button is addictive. Once you've tried it, you won't want to give it up.



CAN YOU HANDLE 365hp? CAN YOU HANDLE A 3.0CL?? NOPE!!!

just messing around with you i just look at your pics of your car, it looks GOOD

BTW once you go nitrous you NEVER GO BACK !!!!
Old 08-22-2002, 12:18 AM
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Originally posted by EricS
Learn how to drive the damn car first!!


Your "6MT clutch is crap..." thread





you cant shift, but you "race" just fine....................whatever
Old 08-22-2002, 12:29 AM
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Originally posted by fastvtecCL

CAN YOU HANDLE 365hp? CAN YOU HANDLE A 3.0CL?? NOPE!!!

just messing around with you
:pfawk:

Originally posted by fastvtecCL
i just look at your pics of your car, it looks GOOD
Thanks for the compliment

Originally posted by fastvtecCL
BTW once you go nitrous you NEVER GO BACK !!!!
That is so true...It's like a drug!!!

BTW: 13.7 @103 is impressive, good job.
Old 08-22-2002, 01:23 PM
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fastest time 13.4@107 !!!
 
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S

:pfawk:


Thanks for the compliment


That is so true...It's like a drug!!!

BTW: 13.7 @103 is impressive, good job.

yo you should plan a trip up here in OCT.. there is a big import race, i would love to see your car and maybe you can even hit 13's (just maybe)

two of my friends have CL-S (6SPEEDS) that will be running.. one has header,intake,exhaust and the other has just intake...

i'll let you know the date of the race as soon as i find out..
Old 08-22-2002, 04:17 PM
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Fuck the haters do the nitrous!
Old 08-22-2002, 06:46 PM
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Originally posted by fastvtecCL



yo you should plan a trip up here in OCT.. there is a big import race, i would love to see your car and maybe you can even hit 13's (just maybe)

two of my friends have CL-S (6SPEEDS) that will be running.. one has header,intake,exhaust and the other has just intake...

i'll let you know the date of the race as soon as i find out..
Man that sounds good, but I don't think I would be able to make it up to North Carolina. It is just a little too far for me. Thanks for the info tho.

Please let me know how you & your two friends with the 6-speeds run. I am really curious to see if the 6-speed with header, intake, exhaust can break 13's. Good luck & if you are ever in South Florida PM me so we can get together.

BTW: Clean out you PM inbox. I tried to reply to you & it said your inbox was full.
Slacker :pfawk:
Old 08-22-2002, 07:43 PM
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Originally posted by SFLA_Type-S

Man that sounds good, but I don't think I would be able to make it up to North Carolina. It is just a little too far for me. Thanks for the info tho.

Please let me know how you & your two friends with the 6-speeds run. I am really curious to see if the 6-speed with header, intake, exhaust can break 13's. Good luck & if you are ever in South Florida PM me so we can get together.

BTW: Clean out you PM inbox. I tried to reply to you & it said your inbox was full.
Slacker :pfawk:
sorry i just cleaned out my PM box:P ... i'll probably be making my way down to FL pretty soon, i lived in palm beach gardens for 10 years and usually go back once every summer..

well good luck with your car it's nice and clean the way i like it
i'll let you know when i'm comming down and keep me posted on any new times if you run any......
Old 08-22-2002, 08:24 PM
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hahahhahahah god
Old 08-22-2002, 08:51 PM
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Originally posted by fastvtecCL


sorry i just cleaned out my PM box:P ... i'll probably be making my way down to FL pretty soon, i lived in palm beach gardens for 10 years and usually go back once every summer..

well good luck with your car it's nice and clean the way i like it
i'll let you know when i'm comming down and keep me posted on any new times if you run any......
Thanks again for the compliments...I will look forward to meeting you if you come down to FL. I will be sure to keep you up to date when I go to the track.
Old 08-22-2002, 09:00 PM
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sfla, you bastard. i don't think i needed to read that article. now you got me thinking...

when you go in for service do you take it out? isn't there a hole in the side of your intake? hol-e-shit, a second off my time!?! how much is a whole kit?

yeah fastvtecCL, i'm sure he couldn't beat that 13.7



which is very respectable, don't get me wrong.
Old 08-22-2002, 09:04 PM
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p.s. i smoked a 1st gen w/ a prelude swap and a 60 shot at the drags last week. he ran like a 15 flat and i ran a 14.4. he was like wtf do you have in that thing
Old 08-22-2002, 09:10 PM
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Originally posted by mattg
sfla, you bastard. i don't think i needed to read that article. now you got me thinking...

when you go in for service do you take it out? isn't there a hole in the side of your intake? hol-e-shit, a second off my time!?! how much is a whole kit?

yeah fastvtecCL, i'm sure he couldn't beat that 13.7



which is very respectable, don't get me wrong.
I have a friend at the dealership who, for some strange reason, has never seen the nitrous on my car.

If he ever leaves I would have to be really careful when going to the dealer.
It is a chance I take & hope for the best...I try not to abuse the nitrous & only use it when I need it because I would not want to get into any problems with the dealer. A dry kit for our car will run about $500-$600.
Old 08-22-2002, 09:14 PM
  #26  
Sold 12/29/04 :-(
 
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Originally posted by mattg
p.s. i smoked a 1st gen w/ a prelude swap and a 60 shot at the drags last week. he ran like a 15 flat and i ran a 14.4. he was like wtf do you have in that thing
That's an impressive run for you , but I would think a 1st gen with a Prelude swap & a 60 shot would run better than a 15.0.

Did he have a bad launch or maybe couldn't drive?
Old 11-11-2004, 06:22 PM
  #27  
Cruisin'
 
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Dont be scared of the NOS.... go for it!


13.518 @ 106.33, second time on the bottle!



********************************
01 3.2CLS

OBX headers

cold air intake

80 shot NOS
Old 11-11-2004, 06:28 PM
  #28  
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Go for the NOS!!!

13.518 @ 106.33, second time on the bottle!

****************************************

01 3.2 CLS

OBX headers

cold air intake

80 shot NOS
Old 11-11-2004, 07:22 PM
  #29  
TQ > MPG
 
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I think he probably already made up his mind. Look at the original date on the 1st post
Old 11-11-2004, 08:32 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jtkz13
I think he probably already made up his mind. Look at the original date on the 1st post

My bad baller. I am new to this and yes that was a mistake. So nice of you to point that out for me. Maybe you should spend less time trying to make people feel dumb and more time making your car ( or cars?) faster.
Old 11-11-2004, 10:00 PM
  #31  
///M POWER
 
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holy brought back from the grave
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