Nitrous for CL-S

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Old 01-11-2001, 08:15 PM
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Nitrous for CL-S

I was thinking of gettin nitrous for my CL-S. I was wondering if anyone new how the engine stood up to it. The reason i was going to get this is because it is quick and cheap , comparably, for extra hp.
Old 01-11-2001, 08:45 PM
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that what i want, after seibg an infinti i30 at nopi standing still doing burnouts then let up on brakes and did a 360, we were standing around 15 feet from the car and you could hear the bottle sprayin it was cool as hell

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2000 accord v6 sedan
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Old 01-11-2001, 10:33 PM
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and it's fun as all hell!!! i squeezed for a bit...i need to put it back in

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Old 01-11-2001, 11:17 PM
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How hard is it to hook up and remove can someone tell me how it is done?
Old 01-11-2001, 11:26 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by [DWI]:
How hard is it to hook up and remove can someone tell me how it is done?</font>
it's easy and can be conseliable if you put it into the intake runner...i did but had to get a new intake to cover up the whole. The engine should hold up good...and your tranny should be fine



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-55 chevy suburban (chopped dropped tubbed)
Old 01-12-2001, 12:52 AM
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Depends on how hard you squeeze. Nitrous is fine when done properly. But let it get out of hand and you will be walking home, and possibly picking up molten aluminum off the street (which was part of your engine).

Just Jet it a little rich and leave it there. Don't get cocky and try and get a little more out of it without precautions.

It is fun but does lack in streetability since the bottle only lasts about 12 - 15 1320' runs...

[This message has been edited by scalbert (edited 01-11-2001).]
Old 01-12-2001, 02:55 AM
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scalbert you seem to be prety knowledgible can you expound on this topic a little more, also i would love to get gavrills opinion

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2001 acura cl type-s
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2000 accord v6 sedan
1997 4runner
1992 camaro
1993 volvo 850
Old 01-12-2001, 11:22 AM
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Not sure how much more I should or could go into it but I'll give it a whirl.

BTW, a common misconception: Nitrous does not burn or increase power. It just puts more O2 in the mix. Add to this higher O2 concentration more fuel and that is when more power is made.

Again, you have to add more fuel when the Nitrous starts flowing. How much more fuel can be extracted from the factory fuel system, I don't know. But a guess would be the standard 50 - 75 HP Nitrous shot would be the limit. There is an ideal ratio of additional fuel to nitrous being added. Mostly this is controlled by the jet sizes used for the Nitrous injection.

But I need to take a step back and define the two types of injection, wet and dry. Wet is typically where a jet is used that is plumbed with both Nitrous and fuel. The flow of both are controlled by a solenoid valve and typically injected into the intake manifold. So a mixture of Nitrous and fuel flow into the heads and then the combustion chamber. Hopefully that happens, some systems have been implemented only later to find they were getting puddling (word??) of the fuel in the manifold which lead to lean conditions and burnt pistons, etc.

A dry system just jets Nitrous in and then increases the fuel pressure of the system to support the additional fuel requirements. By increasing the fuel pressure more fuel is sprayed every cycle of the injectors. Problem here is that it can tax the injectors over time and could lock them open or closed. If they locked closed, they you could expect a worthless engine from there on.

I’m not going to touch on which is better, that would be a good debate though. But in either case the fuel system has to flow enough fuel to support the amount of Nitrous being added. The primary limiting point is the fuel pump. But if someone really wanted to add nitrous they should look at implementing an auxiliary pump that comes on when the nitrous is needed. This will help to insure enough fuel is available.

In the CL I have investigated it a bit and think that a nice, hidden, dry system could be added. Just use an aux. pump and pipe in the nitrous jet into the runners as they turn down towards the heads. This would be in the center area of the manifold and the engine cover would hide the lines coming in. Just place the solenoid down low and you can have a very stealthy system. Just own up that you are squeezing when the race is done…

But with this setup, a 100 hp shot could easily be run. Not sure how long the transaxle would handle it though.
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