Old cls6 fully stripped. Only thing I left was airbag harness/computer and sun roof.

 

Slammed! that's now the lightest CL6...sorry Brian.

 

I bet you it would be close. Haha

 

Some progress. Just have to figure out clutch and brake pedal assemblies. I doubt the clutch just bolts right in, anyone know if I have to drill or saw?

Also, do I have to use my old cls6 ignition switch/keys? Or have to get it towed to Honda to reprogram?

 

Got this torque wrench just to make sure everything is to spec, is this a good one?

 

This forum is so dead....

 

have you checked fsttyms thread in the 2nd gen section? (his 6speed swap)

That engine wants headers so bad. And lighter pulleys.

 

Ignition/key needs to match ecu/immobilizer so if you dont have the donor cars ignition/key..then yes you'll need to get reprogrammed.

Manual brake pedal bolts right in place of the auto pedal.

Clutch replaces auto ebrake pedal. You will need to remove the ebrake pedal and then hole saw out the hole for the clutch pedal. You'll see casted into the firewall the circular shape that needs to be hole saw'd. Pedal will then need spacers on both studs to space it from the firewall so that clutch will engage/disengage properly. It will not fully engage without spacers. I used a s2k master conversion spacer for a civic on the engine side of the firewall instead as I found with the spacers on the inside, the pedal flexed and eventually cracked the bracket. Hope this helps

 

I read alot of the tl swaps but they have other issues because they can't use our harness. (back windows and such). Seems like they use richies harness or still have issues.

Thanks you. That's my next step right now. I undid brake booster and brake/e-brake. I should be able to see what's going on right there. My donor car is still outside. I see the spacers you're talking about. This should be fun.

As for ignition/keys, this is the shit I can't find info on. I might get them reprogrammed if it's reasonable. I have my old keys, and ignition, but my old car was wired up with remote start/alarm and I can see the alarm wires going all over the harness. Also, would hate to have one key for engine and another for door. Will make a parts list of essential stuff when I'm done.

 

6 speed harness on. Hope to be running by the weekend. Any word on intake spacer? Will probably ditch it if it doesn't clear the hood.

 

So you have a J35 going into an auto CL with a donor CL6 available right? (sorry not a lot of sleep last night). And you're changing the auto CL to manual correct?

If so did you swap over all the necessary CL6 engine parts to the J35 engine? The intake spacer won't clear the hood without big spacers which look like crap IMO. You'll have enough torque with the J35 alone.

 

Side question: Do you happen to have a spare fuel pump assembly from the donor car?

 

Yeah, automatic 02 cls is getting j35 and 6 speed at the same time.

Swapped over heads, crank sensor, egr valve and throttle body. Got new head gaskets, head bolts, timing belt, tensioner, idler, clutch kit and machined flywheel.

Anything else I need?

Sadly I didn't remove fuel tank from wrecked car. If you're near a suburb of Chicago feel free to come by and I'll help you take it out. Are they really expensive or hard to find?

 

No not really, but my pump is on the way out and I would prefer a used oem over a new aftermarket. Let me know if you're willing to pull it and ship. No need to drop the tank- the access spot is right where the trunk meets the back seat.

 

Really? I remember seeing access port, didnt remember it being that big. Do you know how to pop trunk with no battery?

 

It's closer to the back seat so I would say the easiest way would be to remove and go through there. Not sure about trunk with no battery, but as I said you wouldn't go through that way anyway. Thanks for looking into it

 

She fits!

 

Funny I paid the same for my CLS6 but I have to rebuild the trans. Guy sold it to me without telling me the trans had a bad 2nd gear. And the mc was out of it when I bought it so I could not test drive it. Live and learn. Other than that it's a fairly nice car.

 

Got everything hooked up. Cranks(when clutch pressed all the way) but won't start. Switched over ignition switch, but not key cylinder. Key not flashing either. I should have took pictures under the dash, damnit

 

There is a cable you can pull from the trunk access port in the back seat. Open the port and put your hand in....it's on the right side somewhere. It's a cable with a plastic handle piece on the end.

 

Good call guys. I can see access port through back seat, would probably be easiest from there. Gimme a few days to get her out.

Car almost ready. Tried to swap the least wires as possible, but it appears I have to swap dash harness.

I am not good at electrical, and it's a little bit trickier because the 6 speed harness had a remote start viper alarm. Gonna take a half day at work tomorro and try to swap the dash.

Doing this all by myself after work so far. I'm a little excited to drive it, think I'll be more relieved to leave work at a normal hour

 

that's pretty cool you got to do it all yourself. Just to clarify what I said about the cable....if you pull that cable the trunk will pop open.

 

Cool I'll check it out. I swapped out the main harness under the dash. She's alive! Gonna finish buttoning her up tomorro.

 

I just checked and that cable is actually top left of cubby just inside the trunk.

In for first impressions of that torque!

 

Only drove it around the block. Exhaust is off after the cat, going to weld in the 03 resonator/mufflers because the flanges have been replaced and the tips are bigger. I still have 1 or 2 plugs under the dash i have to look up where they go.

Its definitely quicker than before, but something i didnt realize till after pulling around slowly and parking:not having to press the gas to get the car moving. I remember before having to lightly press the gas or the car would shudder or die. Maybe its the new clutch. Never had a new clutch on my own personal car. Ive replaced them at work, but thats normally when they are totally smoked out and the car barely/doesnt move so I dont really get a good before and after feel.

 

Alright it runs and drives fine, but the fans don't kick on, the fuel gauge is @ e, sunroof doesn't work, and the right side window doesn't work. Got drone noise coming from intake too. Only drove it around the block once, but it starts and idles fine. Had to keep moving in and out of the shop @ work and it starts up no problem. I'm going to swap last harness tomorrow, the one from passenger headlight to fuse box on fire wall to passenger under dash fuse. Last one I didn't change. I'm really bad @ electrical. The car is like 95% done but I feel this last 5% is going to be the hardest to make it perfect.

 

Swapped the passenger side engine harness today. Still gotta figure out gas gauge(stuck on e), sunroof and have 2-3 connectors by drivers dash i cant figure out. Gotta print out more schematics, i damn near printed out the whole electrical troubleshooting manual.I can see the finish line but a few days away from making it perfect.

 

Swapped over the driver side body harness, made clutch bracket, and replaced rear main seal. Everything seems good to go so far. I'll post pics when it's all buttoned up

 

Wow, what a job! I have enjoyed following your progress and I am excited about seeing it when you are finished! Post a video of it in action when you are done Keep up the good work:gheywave:

 

Hey thanks man! Been waiting to put some miles to get on it, finally got 600 miles on the clutch and did 2 pulls. She burns rubber through 1rst and 2nd, chirps 3rd now! Less wheel hop than my old one too.

Feels good for a daily. The clutch is so light! Drove a 99 Mustang the other day with a 4.6, and the clutch was super heavy for being stock.

Pics and parts list incoming

 

Nice work! Were you able to get the reverse lights functional after the swap?

 

Yeah,the only thing I can't get working is the sunroof. Swapped like 6 harnesses to get everything working. I wouldn't recommend doing the swap without a donor car

 

Can someone tell me where these leftover nuts and bolts go?

That one tub is overflowing with harnesses. At least I'll have extra connectors/wire.

 

Next to my old junk

 

what kind of rims are those?

 

Enkei fd-05 17x something not sure off the top of my head

 

10k miles and counting. I want to get rid of the wheel hop next, and get some decent axles. Any suggestions?

 

I recommend a torque damper. I have an Ingalls on mine and have definitely noticed a good difference in regards to less wheel hop and cleaner shifts.

 

These guys make axles for the CL I'm pretty sure: http://insaneshafts.com/

What suspension do you have on the car? What motor mounts? I've heard ES radius rod bushings help.

 

Nice,will have to get one.

Tein street basis. Everything else stock. Yeah I think I'm going to replace those radius bushings, new motor mounts, and new upper and lower control arms. Do they make upgraded manual trans mount or do I have do it myself with that polyurethane stuff?

Anyone have experience with those insane shafts? Pretty good deal, 370 for a pair.