Need help from people who have/had actuator problems
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Chicago, IL USA
Age: 44
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Need help from people who have/had actuator problems
I took my car in to the dealership, and they have no clue about the actuator. On top of that they seem willing to blame the performance mods by the way they were talking to me. I already printed out the section from Chods faq and sent it to the dealership. Are there any other good references about the actuator? The detailed the better at this point.
Thanks,
spiro
Thanks,
spiro
#3
Senior Moderator
Re: Need help from people who have/had actuator problems
Originally posted by spiroh
I took my car in to the dealership, and they have no clue about the actuator. On top of that they seem willing to blame the performance mods by the way they were talking to me. I already printed out the section from Chods faq and sent it to the dealership. Are there any other good references about the actuator? The detailed the better at this point.
Thanks,
spiro
I took my car in to the dealership, and they have no clue about the actuator. On top of that they seem willing to blame the performance mods by the way they were talking to me. I already printed out the section from Chods faq and sent it to the dealership. Are there any other good references about the actuator? The detailed the better at this point.
Thanks,
spiro
#5
Cajun Gumbo Man
I'm a victim twice. Have them call Wayne at Parc Avenue Acura !
#6
Drifting
Join Date: May 2001
Location: New Orleans, LA,USA
Age: 48
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Originally posted by juice
Get any type S car at the lot, floor it and make them watch the actuator flip!!!!!!!
Get any type S car at the lot, floor it and make them watch the actuator flip!!!!!!!
Trending Topics
#8
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
Maybe we need to start an IMRC Bypass Valve Actuator forum ??
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...light=actuator
Maybe we need to start an IMRC Bypass Valve Actuator forum ??
#9
Administrator Alumnus
Re: spiroh
Originally posted by johntypes
go over to mcgrath talk to service manger i made friends with him
John
go over to mcgrath talk to service manger i made friends with him
John
Good luck Spiroh and if you do go to McGrath let me know how it goes.
#10
Senior Moderator
Spiro-
damn man, that sux! Try Continental Acura, I got all my mods done there. They should be cool with it. good luck! Give me a call sometime soon bro!
ginash
damn man, that sux! Try Continental Acura, I got all my mods done there. They should be cool with it. good luck! Give me a call sometime soon bro!
ginash
#11
Suzuka Master
The dealer needs their ass kicked...
PART I OF III: DEALER IQ TEST INFORMATION:
Bad actuators happen. It's your chance to give the dealer IQ test.
If they verify the problem (actuator doesn't move) and offer to replace it, you've found a dealer with minimal brain damage.)
OR
If they "stonewall" or try to put you off by telling you:
1. It only works under load.
2. It only works in certain temps.
3. They never go bad.
4. We don't see any OBDII codes, so it must be ok.
5. Put your "own" "stupid"/"lame" dealer vs. actuator failure story here.
You now know you have a ignorant, stupid, and/or bad dealer (Go to search and look up actuator and dealer)
Move on and get that sucker in there... You're currently driving a CL Type S-20HP.
Actuator problem not fixed in 03!!!!
Actuator and dealer in denial thread (one of many)
AND (for ammo)
Search the CLS forum for Actuator and Dealer
<hr></hr>
PART II OF III: DIAGNOSTICS AND SERVICE MANUAL INFO:
ON pages 11-42/11-43 of the 3.2 CL Service Manual 2001 (covers 2001 CL and CL Type-S models), there is a schematic diagram.
The schematic shows one of the outputs of the PGM-F1/PCM (the “electronic brain” of the car that sits behind the center console in the CLS) going to:
1. The INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL MODULE (its show as a single block on the schematic – ok) The module is controlled by pin A13 of the PGM-F1.
2. There is a two-wire connection that goes to the: INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL ACTUATOR from the IMRC MODULE described above.
The item in #1 (the control module) is detailed on page 11-139 (Intake Manifold Control (IMRC) Module Removal/Installation. The picture could be better, but it looks to be located in the driver’s foot well (left side).
The Actuator’s removal and replacement is described on page 11-138 (adjacent page). This is the “Actuator” as shown in the “jpeg/gif” (in this thread). The pictures you see are of the actual ACTUATOR. (NOT THE MODULE).
I “think” that most people have had the ACTUATOR replaced. However, the MODULE could go bad. (In rare cases someone could have a bad connector or wire and/or a bad driver/output transistor in the PGM-F1/PCM (IMO, I wouldn’t be looking there first and it would be the last place I’d look – [but that’s just me])
They should be able to swap item #1 and/or #2 and get you going…
There is a two-pin connector going to the actuator on the firewall, and it is either getting DC (direct current) or AC (alternating current); either way, a small DVM (Digital Volt Meter/Multimeter) should be able to “detect” if a signal is coming from the IRMC MODULE.)
So, here are the main parts:
1. IMRC Actuator (that motor/actuator on the engine firewall).
2. IMRC Module (inside the car).
If they can’t sort this out – be afraid … be very afraid!
<hr></hr>
PART III OF III: How to Stay Safe and "Step Away From the Car" TSB:
Perhaps the compilation of data needs to be nicely "typed-up" and made to look like a TSB . There should be a small section right up at the top that says:
"If your service people are having trouble understanding that NO OBDII code will be generated for IRMC failures, please call Acura retraining and compliance services immediately. If any of your service managers, advisers, and/or technicians have "trouble" understanding this information call the "Acura Service Imposter Hotline ASAP".... Please detain the personal involved so that we can pick them up and interrogate them and isolate them for further study… Also, a set of “Step Away From the Car” stickers can be obtained from 1-800-GET-AWAY (A set of the stickers and tattooing marks can be applied to all suspect employees!)
Bad actuators happen. It's your chance to give the dealer IQ test.
If they verify the problem (actuator doesn't move) and offer to replace it, you've found a dealer with minimal brain damage.)
OR
If they "stonewall" or try to put you off by telling you:
1. It only works under load.
2. It only works in certain temps.
3. They never go bad.
4. We don't see any OBDII codes, so it must be ok.
5. Put your "own" "stupid"/"lame" dealer vs. actuator failure story here.
You now know you have a ignorant, stupid, and/or bad dealer (Go to search and look up actuator and dealer)
Move on and get that sucker in there... You're currently driving a CL Type S-20HP.
Actuator problem not fixed in 03!!!!
Actuator and dealer in denial thread (one of many)
AND (for ammo)
Search the CLS forum for Actuator and Dealer
<hr></hr>
PART II OF III: DIAGNOSTICS AND SERVICE MANUAL INFO:
ON pages 11-42/11-43 of the 3.2 CL Service Manual 2001 (covers 2001 CL and CL Type-S models), there is a schematic diagram.
The schematic shows one of the outputs of the PGM-F1/PCM (the “electronic brain” of the car that sits behind the center console in the CLS) going to:
1. The INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL MODULE (its show as a single block on the schematic – ok) The module is controlled by pin A13 of the PGM-F1.
2. There is a two-wire connection that goes to the: INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL ACTUATOR from the IMRC MODULE described above.
The item in #1 (the control module) is detailed on page 11-139 (Intake Manifold Control (IMRC) Module Removal/Installation. The picture could be better, but it looks to be located in the driver’s foot well (left side).
The Actuator’s removal and replacement is described on page 11-138 (adjacent page). This is the “Actuator” as shown in the “jpeg/gif” (in this thread). The pictures you see are of the actual ACTUATOR. (NOT THE MODULE).
I “think” that most people have had the ACTUATOR replaced. However, the MODULE could go bad. (In rare cases someone could have a bad connector or wire and/or a bad driver/output transistor in the PGM-F1/PCM (IMO, I wouldn’t be looking there first and it would be the last place I’d look – [but that’s just me])
They should be able to swap item #1 and/or #2 and get you going…
There is a two-pin connector going to the actuator on the firewall, and it is either getting DC (direct current) or AC (alternating current); either way, a small DVM (Digital Volt Meter/Multimeter) should be able to “detect” if a signal is coming from the IRMC MODULE.)
So, here are the main parts:
1. IMRC Actuator (that motor/actuator on the engine firewall).
2. IMRC Module (inside the car).
If they can’t sort this out – be afraid … be very afraid!
<hr></hr>
PART III OF III: How to Stay Safe and "Step Away From the Car" TSB:
Perhaps the compilation of data needs to be nicely "typed-up" and made to look like a TSB . There should be a small section right up at the top that says:
"If your service people are having trouble understanding that NO OBDII code will be generated for IRMC failures, please call Acura retraining and compliance services immediately. If any of your service managers, advisers, and/or technicians have "trouble" understanding this information call the "Acura Service Imposter Hotline ASAP".... Please detain the personal involved so that we can pick them up and interrogate them and isolate them for further study… Also, a set of “Step Away From the Car” stickers can be obtained from 1-800-GET-AWAY (A set of the stickers and tattooing marks can be applied to all suspect employees!)
#12
Suzuka Master
"Toxic Waste of Time Navi Icons"
NAVI 2.06d USER UPGRADE IDEA -- due to large number of Acura dealers having "toxic" effects on their clients, the new 2.06 software will allow the ICONs of "toxic dealers" to be properly identified with the new "Toxic Find Feature".
The option would replace "existing" Acura dealer icons with Radiological Waste Site symbols to assist the driver with "proper” Acura dealer selection. Suspect dealers can have their current "icon" replaced with this new one (also warns non-owners and/or second hand buyers from selecting "toxic dealers" and potential "toxic waste of time sites" when searching in their NAVIs)...
:thinking: :thinking: :thinking:
The option would replace "existing" Acura dealer icons with Radiological Waste Site symbols to assist the driver with "proper” Acura dealer selection. Suspect dealers can have their current "icon" replaced with this new one (also warns non-owners and/or second hand buyers from selecting "toxic dealers" and potential "toxic waste of time sites" when searching in their NAVIs)...
:thinking: :thinking: :thinking:
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