My OEM Acura replacement clutch is defective. Lasted less than 2,000 miles...........
#1
My OEM Acura replacement clutch is defective. Lasted less than 2,000 miles...........
My OEM Acura replacement clutch is defective. It lasted less than 2,000 miles.
My car currently has 54,800 miles on it and i had the Clutch and Flywheel replaced less than 2,000 miles ago because it started slipping right after i bought it.
It has been smelling like Clutch for 2 weeks now and it gave out yesterday after running a couple 1/8 mile runs on a track and now my car will not go into gear easily at all.
I know how to properly launch and i've raced in other cars at this track many times before and never had this problem happen.
These cars were made to be pushed and this should not have happened to it.
Acura's website says that "All Genuine Acura parts are covered under a 1 year/ 12,000 mile warrenty".
They should be forced to fix it for free right?
My car currently has 54,800 miles on it and i had the Clutch and Flywheel replaced less than 2,000 miles ago because it started slipping right after i bought it.
It has been smelling like Clutch for 2 weeks now and it gave out yesterday after running a couple 1/8 mile runs on a track and now my car will not go into gear easily at all.
I know how to properly launch and i've raced in other cars at this track many times before and never had this problem happen.
These cars were made to be pushed and this should not have happened to it.
Acura's website says that "All Genuine Acura parts are covered under a 1 year/ 12,000 mile warrenty".
They should be forced to fix it for free right?
#4
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
#6
The Acura dealer did the install.
I can put the car in gear easier when it's turned off.
I didn't do the break in because they never mentioned it. It still should not result into something this bad regardless of a brake in period.
You don't think my flywheel is bad do you? They replaced that when they did the clutch. Also had them do the updated tranny fluid flush
I can put the car in gear easier when it's turned off.
I didn't do the break in because they never mentioned it. It still should not result into something this bad regardless of a brake in period.
You don't think my flywheel is bad do you? They replaced that when they did the clutch. Also had them do the updated tranny fluid flush
Last edited by Jacobpockros; 03-06-2010 at 07:47 PM.
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#9
Sounds like it was user error not defective to me. It has a break in period and you should never race with that few miles on a clutch. So basically 3 clutches in under 60k miles now? even the crappy auto would be cheaper with all its tranny issues.
#11
No no no i gave you guys the wrong idea.
I was easy on it for the first 2 or 3 weeks when i got it (did not race it or abuse it) but after those 2-3 weeks i started slowly doing some more spirited runs and went racing yesturday on the track.
My clutch was fixed over 3 months ago.
I did not know there is a longer break in period than what you guys are describing.
Sorry for not clarifying things
I was easy on it for the first 2 or 3 weeks when i got it (did not race it or abuse it) but after those 2-3 weeks i started slowly doing some more spirited runs and went racing yesturday on the track.
My clutch was fixed over 3 months ago.
I did not know there is a longer break in period than what you guys are describing.
Sorry for not clarifying things
#15
Senior Moderator
#16
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
#17
Blown is Best
I had a problem with the engagement with mine a while back. It progressively got harder to put into gear and shift. I first thought that I was loosing my clutch master or slave. Those checked out fine and then it turned out to be a bad pressure plate. My guess was that the self adjusting mechanism in the pressure plate went bad. When we opened it up, I had to replace my flywheel insert and friction disk that got burned. When the pressure plate went bad, it also wasn't up to the full clamping pressure was my guess.
If it was purely not breaking the friction disk in, I would think that you would have slipping problems but not the engagement issues. I'm guessing that it's more of a pressure plate problem.
If the dealer did the install and you bought the parts through them, they should honor it for up to 12,000 miles.
If it was purely not breaking the friction disk in, I would think that you would have slipping problems but not the engagement issues. I'm guessing that it's more of a pressure plate problem.
If the dealer did the install and you bought the parts through them, they should honor it for up to 12,000 miles.
#18
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (8)
my mechanic told me to 750-1000miles brake in and do not drive faster than 60 mph idk why. i think i did 500 miles then i hit it ones. my clutch will last aprox next 20-30k miles in my opinion and i know thats my fault. but i dont want dual mass flywheel anymore i just dont like it. next clutch will be aftermarket stage 1 or 2.
And Jacob this your and only your fault. end of story
And Jacob this your and only your fault. end of story
#19
My clutch still grabs fine. No slipping at all. Just takes alot of force to go into gear.
Phee, Rajca, Brian6speed, and StreetKA: Stop ripping on me. No one including myself knows the true answer to how it happened.
I will update this when i take it in on Monday
Phee, Rajca, Brian6speed, and StreetKA: Stop ripping on me. No one including myself knows the true answer to how it happened.
I will update this when i take it in on Monday
#20
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Im with Allout in saying thats its possibly the pressure plate.
It could also be the throw out bearing.
Is the clutch pedal stiffer?
It could also be the throw out bearing.
Is the clutch pedal stiffer?
#21
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/my-clutch-ok-765224/
this is why your clutch is dead
probably burned it up when you tried to do that burnout
this is why your clutch is dead
probably burned it up when you tried to do that burnout
#22
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=765224
this is why your clutch is dead
probably burned it up when you tried to do that burnout
this is why your clutch is dead
probably burned it up when you tried to do that burnout
#26
Either way, 5 seconds of over reving a clutch is not enough to take a perfect one out. A member on here went 220,000+ miles on his original clutch which is 8 years old. 1 burnout cannot do this, especially on an acura
#27
Lives in Boost
It's normal for the clutch to feel notchy and hard to engage after abusing the clutch in this car, it'll go away...eventually.
As much as we like our cars, this is an Acura CL, not a Z06. If you push the car hard be prepared to pay for wear and tear parts
#28
yup that's what happened do to my e-brake not being tight enough.
Either way, 5 seconds of over reving a clutch is not enough to take a perfect one out. A member on here went 220,000+ miles on his original clutch which is 8 years old. 1 burnout cannot do this, especially on an acura
Either way, 5 seconds of over reving a clutch is not enough to take a perfect one out. A member on here went 220,000+ miles on his original clutch which is 8 years old. 1 burnout cannot do this, especially on an acura
Nobody is trying "ride" on you... its just that you seem to have a heavy foot like on your other post "what if I want to go fast?" Most of the time clutch issues are drivers fault. If you have done a clutch job before, it is pretty straight forward... you can't get it wrong... it just takes time.
I have 90k+ on original clutch right now. And cars are not meant to be beat on all the time.
Here is my recommendation, if the dealer does not cover your clutch go buy a SPEC stage 1 or Clutchmasters or something...
#30
Senior Moderator
Yes it is, because it helps determine what parts would be effected by what your did. You beat on the clutch before it was properly broken in, wondering what was wrong and people are telling u that you beating on it caused it to break. Deal with it, take it to acura and try to get them to replace it, and break it in properly next time before beating on it, end of story.
#33
Hopefully the dealer replaces it out of goodwill for you. How it happened IS relevant because if no one tells you or you don't take the advice that's given to you, and you abuse the clutch before break-in is complete, the dealer may realize you're abusing your clutch and tell you to pound sand, at which point you're SOL.
I don't frequent the CL section much but from what I've read, those guys you're telling to stop ripping on you know quite a lot about these cars, at least more than you do. You may not like to hear it but listen and learn because people don't mind if you don't know much but you're modest and are willing to learn. But if you go "well thanks for the advice but I'm going to do this instead" then people will stop caring.
A clutch shouldn't just shit itself after break-in. If anything any sort of chatter or difficulty shifting should go away because the components have worn into each other and be smoother than and easier than ever. If it was the pressure plate or TO bearing you would have noticed issues from the very start.
#34
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (3)
not trying to rip on you but i have a bad feeling acura wont warrenty your clutch mainly cause it went to out so fast. i think there going to chalk it up to driver error which it seems to be. ive never driven a stick in my life but i do know you have to break them in.
#35
Regional Coordinator (Texas)
iTrader: (38)
no company warranty clutches, just because people dont know how to drive good most of the time. i've seen clutch jobs come back after a 1000 miles, again user error and no warranty on those.
when ever they did the clutch service, they replaced the bearing too? its not the clutch if it grabs on fine.
when ever they did the clutch service, they replaced the bearing too? its not the clutch if it grabs on fine.
#36
Ultra Negro
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Sounds to me like, improper break in, not changing the throwout bearing, and user error.
nothing you can really do about this other than take the loss and get a new clutch.
btw got 142000 miles on my original clutch still going strong the oem clutch is fine for our cars.
nothing you can really do about this other than take the loss and get a new clutch.
btw got 142000 miles on my original clutch still going strong the oem clutch is fine for our cars.
#37
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
no company warranty clutches, just because people dont know how to drive good most of the time. i've seen clutch jobs come back after a 1000 miles, again user error and no warranty on those.
when ever they did the clutch service, they replaced the bearing too? its not the clutch if it grabs on fine.
when ever they did the clutch service, they replaced the bearing too? its not the clutch if it grabs on fine.
and 5sec on a new clutch is more than enough time.
rev the car up to like 5k and drop the clutch see if the tires spin or the clutch doesnt grab then tell us what happens.
#38
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
Sounds to me like, improper break in, not changing the throwout bearing, and user error.
nothing you can really do about this other than take the loss and get a new clutch.
btw got 142000 miles on my original clutch still going strong the oem clutch is fine for our cars.
nothing you can really do about this other than take the loss and get a new clutch.
btw got 142000 miles on my original clutch still going strong the oem clutch is fine for our cars.
i destroyed my clutch on the track, oem ~65k with a 125shot nitrous. slipping in all gears, but if i drive it like a normal person it will grab
#40
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Jake, take it to Acura and try to get them to warranty it. Most companies do not warranty clutches, however I have known of a few people that brought their car into the dealer when it was only a few thousand miles old and got a free replacement clutch.
However, Ill let you know now, all they need to do is plug in the HDS and see how you drive and you"ll be paying for a new clutch.
BTW, do not get a SPEC clutch. If you want to keep it inexpensive, get the P2R disc and OEM flywheel and pressure plate. Ive been hearing good things about that combo.
There was another video of it happening in a Camaro or maybe it was a TransAm. It was worse though because the pressure plate broke into a few pieces, one piece nearly took out a kids leg, another went through the firewall and into the dashboard
However, Ill let you know now, all they need to do is plug in the HDS and see how you drive and you"ll be paying for a new clutch.
BTW, do not get a SPEC clutch. If you want to keep it inexpensive, get the P2R disc and OEM flywheel and pressure plate. Ive been hearing good things about that combo.
There was another video of it happening in a Camaro or maybe it was a TransAm. It was worse though because the pressure plate broke into a few pieces, one piece nearly took out a kids leg, another went through the firewall and into the dashboard