CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

if VSA kicked in of course it's going to look slow.

ghost_masterCL

.

Lord Helmet

There are 2 potentialy bad nuts. One of the front side of the motor and the other at the cat.

I believe I have all the parts to do the job. Besides a couple of new nuts.

03CoupeV6

VSA only kicked in for a few moments, yes it was slow then.

And it was slow afterwards. There's some problem there.

ghost_masterCL

oh yeah!! We're at 5500 ft above sea level!!!

Lord Helmet

That could be the reason too.

Maybe I need to change my plugs...

ghost_masterCL

could be that too. i went to the track up here and got a best of 16.8 @ about 84 mph with intake exhaust. I think my tires were a little too flat at the time though becuase I could hear them sticking to the VHT shit all the way down the track . Probably could have got a 16.5 if they were filled properly, but this car is supposed to do around 16 flat stock, so I lost about 1.5 seconds in the 1/4 mile due to altitude.

I have a website bookmarked with the time correction factors based on altitude on my other computer right now. But when i went to get my stock dyno the SAE correction factor was something like 1.21, and it was like 50 degrees out. which means that we are making only 83% of teh power that the same car's are makin at sea level under the same conditions.

Lord Helmet

I guess that's why the Mile High Nationals are so challenging?

All Mine

Excuses, excuses.

















Just kiddin' with ya', guys.

ghost_masterCL

of course if we were turbo'd or supercharged the correction factor would be closer to something like 1.02

All Mine

Well then do it!

ghost_masterCL

oh I plan on it... when I get enough money together for that in about a year after I spend all my money on a dr evil tranny now...

Lord Helmet

I thought they were just as bad or being investigated or something?

ghost_masterCL

nope, at least not on the 4AT transmisison for the J30. 02AV6 is pushing over 350 whp and his is still doing fine.

rezurex

dump the auto, get a manual

man, i remember when i first got headers on my car. i almost cried from the positive butt dyno.

fix the IMRC, then get headers! you will almost cry too!

Lord Helmet

Outstanding!


Going from AT to MT in a car designed for AT is not at all cost effective and I have determined the IMRC is fine.

High altitude and possibly plugs could be my only problems.

ghost_masterCL

If you want to replace your plugs I can bring my spark plug socket with me when we do your headers. How about we do your headers on sunday or monday, and then my cams on saturday the 25th?

send me a PM or something with when you want to do them.

Lord Helmet

Do you mean this Sunday or Monday? If so, either day works for me. And the 25th for your cams sounds good too. I'll probably do my plugs later.

ghost_masterCL

Looks like sunday may be the best bet, as the forecast shows rain/snow on suday and straight snow on monday, so unless it's in a heated gasrage, it might get a bit too cold.

Lord Helmet

Sunday will work. As for the garage, it's not "heated" but unless its REALY cold out, it's generally not too bad.

KahRupt-CL-S03

0-60 in 8.5 seconds
I don't think there anything wrong with your car, it was that road, VSA kills a launch like that.

All Mine

VSA is really that bad?

Lord Helmet

In the snow it's worse. If I'm on snow pack, I can punch it and the wheels will give me a slight spin, then the VSA kicks in and I'll catch because it automaticly reduces the power and you start moving slowly forward. It's fun in the snow but any other time it's a PITA.

ghost_masterCL

heh, the heated garage was a joke, but just shoot me a PM with your info and I'll meet you up at around noon and we can get it done.

Lord Helmet

PM shot!

ghost_masterCL

shot..

All Mine

Have fun with your headers.

03CoupeV6

VSA kicking in on the start didn't cause his car to be as slow as it is on that video. My TL can slip and TCS kick in on the start, but after TCS hands it over to me the car will rip through 1st and 2nd gear. The CL-S just didn't seem to do it as urgently as it should have. Maybe it needs a tune, maybe tires are low, who knows?

blueglows

yea that looked a little slow to me too... i was just messing around with my car, flooring it, doing burn outs and shit and the RPM needle flys up in 1st gear.. if i am lucky to get traction, the 1st gear is done in id say 2.5 seconds... you car seems slow also because you have traction on (which has allready been said like 100 times) but also because you are in D5 and are not gate shifting or SS. I would strongly recommend gate shiting because you get through the first 3 gears very fast because you can hold the RPM all they way to 7100 RPM and end up well into VTEC for all the other gears including 3rd where you landed completely out of range for VTEC.

Lord Helmet

If my foot is on the floor, I don't see how this could improve anything.

blueglows

it can... its a fact trust me... you can floor the car in d1 and floor the car in d2 and feel a very big difference (obviously the car starts off in 2nd gear in d2) if you dont believe me that flooring is not the only thing... even though you have an automatic just like i do, you have to know how to drive it by playing around with the gears and shifting... if you go to the track and leave it in D5, you times will be a lot slower then if you gate shift. This is because when you gate shift (go through the gears starting from down to the bottom D1, D2 then up to D3 and so on) you can hold the rpm passed 6.5?k rpm where the automatic computer shifts for you. When the car shifts its self in D5, it shifts at 6.5krpm everytime and does not use the whole potential of the car because the engine still has more rotation left even if the power remains the same or even drops slightly. The whole point of shifting at the maximum alowable point is so that when you get to the next gear, the rpm is as high as possible so that that car has the most horsepower. For example if you shift at 6.5k rpm in first gear where our cars have 210hp, the rpm needle will drop down to 4.5k rpm in the second gear where our cars has like 160hp. On the other hand, if you shift at 7.1k rpm in 1st gear where our cars have 200 hp, you end up at 5.3rpm and right into vtec where our cars have the most torque hand around 180hp. In the first example you saved time by shifting early but you lost so much power (50hp) In the second example you only lost maybe 1 second but lost only 10 hp after shifting.
I dont know if you understood that but basically you want to shift as late as the car allows you so that the car can keep pulling hard and after shifting it it at the highst RPM possible so you can get the most power right after you have shifted.

You can try this also by letting the car shift by itself from 2nd to 3rd and you will see that you loose vtec for a while untill it gets back into the vtec range, or if you throw it into sports shift or gate shift and hold the rp passed redline a little, after you shift you are right into vtec and the car is still pulling strong.

Sorry for the long essay i just wanted to make sure you understood what i was trying to say.

03CoupeV6

Gate-shifting does help some, but it is not drastic like you are saying. The car seemed slow to build revs, which has nothing to do with the gear or VSA past the initial take off.

NightRider

I think the slow revving is just demographics of the season/area --> high altitude (5000-6000ft) means thinner air, plus crappy winterized ethanol gas, plus snowy weather with gravel everywhere. I did a video on my phone tonight (trying to get up), with slightly slippery/wet conditions from a crawling roll (maybe 2mph). The results were just as "slow" as Chris, although according to the phone 2-65ish was still between 6-7 seconds. At the track it is proven altitude makes a difference, but I think even on the street someone will lose a couple 1/10's 0-60 time coming here from say, Florida...

NightRider

Although gate shifting doesn't make a drastic difference in regular driving, it does become more evident in performance/track driving. As you shift into higher gear and the ratio gets lower, our cars (and any with VTEC) require you to take it to redline for maximum benefit (i.e hitting VTEC in next gear). This is evident especially in third-fourth gear in our cars, notice you have to take the RPM to about 7500 (theoretically) in thrid to be in VTEC in fourth? You can also notice even on the first-second change (lovely how we can't totally control that!), sometimes it will shift at 6500 as opposed to redline, leaving you hovering just near VTEC as opposed to IN it if redline is achieved.

03CoupeV6

Indeed. My point was that the lack of gate-shifting didn't turn a mid-6 second 0-60 car into an 8-9 second one.

I know gateshifting and holding the RPMs into the redline improves acceleration. Especially if the transmission or PCM has been replaced, as was the case in my car. The 1->2 shift is much softer and oft much SOONER than it used to be.

Lord Helmet

I'm going to try this gate shifting theory tonight when I leave work. I still think it's more than likely just the pure simple mixture of CL-p plugs in a Type S (yeah, I screwed up 'cause I couldn't get a straight answer from the forum), I'm in high altitude, and now that someone mentioned it, the oxygenated gasoline we get in the winter. All in all, the car runs great. It averages about 25mpg per tank between short trips in town and highway driving. It used to chirp going into 2nd from time to time but ever since I got new tires, it won't do it anymore. I figured it had something to do with that.

It seems like the car used to run so much stronger. I figured I just got used to it but I guess not. I guess I need to replace the plugs with the proper ones and wait till winter to see if the fuel improves out here. Do you guys think I should run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner thru the system as well just for good measure?

NightRider

No straight answer...that is why I went with Denso Iridium over NGK, confused by that whole 5/6 part number thing. The auto parts store seemed to be as well. I went by the book for the denso so they should be right, but I am going to check the part number and was thinking about reseating the plugs tomorrow. I also wonder, I saw a couple things on the forum about changing gaps (for example the .044 to .060-.080) and increasing engine response because of hotter/longer length spark. Any one know something about this? I have heard Iridium tips are fragile and harder to gap.

Lord Helmet

Ok, I tried the gate shifting last night. All I have to say is Wow! For some reason, the car was running as strong as it used to last night and it burned right thru first and second gears. It felt pretty freakin' cool to hit vtec immediately when it kicked into second. I can definitely feel a difference when doing that. I am now a believer. I actually lost grip real quick when the car hit second. It's been a long time since it's done that.

JZ0324

Quite frankly, it is slow. Its an 3400lb, Auto with just a cai and 19's.

I would forget headers and get a type-s 6mt swap. Best mod ever and you will enjoy the benifits everytime you drive the car. Just my

Did you have a camera mount or were u just holding it? I noticed the camera didnt shake.

Lord Helmet

No shit!

This shit is pissing me off.

You know what ? Read thru the fucking thread before you post and maybe you'll learn something. I'm well aware of the fact it's slow. It's been covered. I'm not even going to tell you what I think of your stupid "6mt swap" comment either. Why would I forget headers if I already have them to install and it's an automatic? That statement was just stupid. Piss off!

Oh yeah, the 19's aren't any heavier than the stocks.