my comptech sway bars are making noises
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my comptech sway bars are making noises
Is it normal for the sway bars to make creaking noises? I just installed them on Monday, and am noticing a lot of noises when i push down on the car or make turns when im driving...it sounds like it's pulling on my suspension or something.
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i'm experiencing the same problem...i can notice the "creaking" sound when getting in and out of my car...of course when the CD starts playing i can't hear "creaking" anymore...hope it's not doing any damage...i had a shop install my bars
#3
It sounds like they were not properly lubed when they were installed, or perhaps not installed properly. We have not had a single noise complaint from all the installs we have done. I have them on both of my cars and not a single noise. You should have them checked out.
#4
Cajun Gumbo Man
What Wayne is saying is, if you did it yourself, I hope your an expert, otherwise, your installation was NOT done properly by an Certifide mechanic !
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From what I found out after I had mine installed. and had squeaks.
If you have a thunk sound, your sway bar end links are not torqued enough.
If you have a squeak (probably at the rear), you need to pull the bushings and either wrap them with teflon tape or lube them. the squeaks happened where the bar goes through the poly bushing.
BTW - My squeaking turned out to be non-related.
If you have a thunk sound, your sway bar end links are not torqued enough.
If you have a squeak (probably at the rear), you need to pull the bushings and either wrap them with teflon tape or lube them. the squeaks happened where the bar goes through the poly bushing.
BTW - My squeaking turned out to be non-related.
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jake
If you have a squeak (probably at the rear), you need to pull the bushings and either wrap them with teflon tape or lube them. the squeaks happened where the bar goes through the poly bushing.
so would you have to take off the bars and re-install to do the teflon tape or lube? on a side note the shop that did my original install told me they had to take off the muffler/exhaust (front and back) in order to install the sways...they said it was in the way of the install...cost me $175 for labor....
thanks
If you have a squeak (probably at the rear), you need to pull the bushings and either wrap them with teflon tape or lube them. the squeaks happened where the bar goes through the poly bushing.
so would you have to take off the bars and re-install to do the teflon tape or lube? on a side note the shop that did my original install told me they had to take off the muffler/exhaust (front and back) in order to install the sways...they said it was in the way of the install...cost me $175 for labor....
thanks
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by robocop22
They lied...
Originally posted by Jake
so would you have to take off the bars and re-install to do the teflon tape or lube? on a side note the shop that did my original install told me they had to take off the muffler/exhaust (front and back) in order to install the sways...they said it was in the way of the install...cost me $175 for labor....
thanks
so would you have to take off the bars and re-install to do the teflon tape or lube? on a side note the shop that did my original install told me they had to take off the muffler/exhaust (front and back) in order to install the sways...they said it was in the way of the install...cost me $175 for labor....
thanks
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I did the install myself along with my roommate, thanks for the help. I think the squeeking is because of not lubricating it...what kind of lube do I need? I bought my sways from autocarparts, and there was no lubricant in the box when I opened it.
#10
Hey WayneG,
What are your thoughts on L10 tranny upgrade with a Comptech SC?
I see you have just about every mod available (esp the Comptech ones), and am curious if you will be doing the SC as well. And if so, if you will do a tranny overhaul first.
What are your thoughts on L10 tranny upgrade with a Comptech SC?
I see you have just about every mod available (esp the Comptech ones), and am curious if you will be doing the SC as well. And if so, if you will do a tranny overhaul first.
#12
JRock- we are looking at it, but don't have any solid information yet. We have done a few S2k installs and if the kit is as good as those, as I'm sure it will be- it should be a good unit. As for the trans- Level 10 makes a good product but there have been some complications with those (ck enging lite,ect.) I guess my answer is- we are going to try them out and see what happens. It should be fun
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robocop22,
You could check with Wayne but according to Mike over at comptech, he said he thought you could leave the end links installed and just remove the Bushing Brackets, slide the bushings and lube. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes.
BTW - Now that I have been under my car, I can't believe that I paid even 90 Bucks to have these installed.
You could check with Wayne but according to Mike over at comptech, he said he thought you could leave the end links installed and just remove the Bushing Brackets, slide the bushings and lube. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes.
BTW - Now that I have been under my car, I can't believe that I paid even 90 Bucks to have these installed.
#15
Originally posted by wayneg
JRock- we are looking at it, but don't have any solid information yet. We have done a few S2k installs and if the kit is as good as those, as I'm sure it will be- it should be a good unit. As for the trans- Level 10 makes a good product but there have been some complications with those (ck enging lite,ect.) I guess my answer is- we are going to try them out and see what happens. It should be fun
JRock- we are looking at it, but don't have any solid information yet. We have done a few S2k installs and if the kit is as good as those, as I'm sure it will be- it should be a good unit. As for the trans- Level 10 makes a good product but there have been some complications with those (ck enging lite,ect.) I guess my answer is- we are going to try them out and see what happens. It should be fun
Although I guess it's not such a stressful thing for you to test one, seeing as Jens is always there to fix any problems compared to those of us who don't quite work at a dealership and have to face the almighty warranty.
Very cool though, I am eager to hear your review of the SC once you install it, and after a few months of use! I'm sure you'll keep us posted, especially all the kills you'll make!
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I can state from past experience (Neuspeed rear sway on my Accord SE sedan) that the grease for the poly bushings is a must. That's a no brainer. Without it, your wasting your time.
I installed that one myself (now mom's pimp'n ride!) Not a hard job, but this time around I went to Sears and picked up a set of metric crows feet, and long handled hex key wrenches. No bullsh!t on this install (hopefully in a week or so.)
I might just install the rear for awhile, and give a review for that. I just "downgraded" if you will, my wheel / tire package to 16" TLP's. I must say, I really like the feel of the car better now. Of course this will bring on the youngsters to flame the old fart who likes a psudeo cushy ride!
Anyway, thanks for posting WayneG. Always good to hear from you and Jens.
Jim
I installed that one myself (now mom's pimp'n ride!) Not a hard job, but this time around I went to Sears and picked up a set of metric crows feet, and long handled hex key wrenches. No bullsh!t on this install (hopefully in a week or so.)
I might just install the rear for awhile, and give a review for that. I just "downgraded" if you will, my wheel / tire package to 16" TLP's. I must say, I really like the feel of the car better now. Of course this will bring on the youngsters to flame the old fart who likes a psudeo cushy ride!
Anyway, thanks for posting WayneG. Always good to hear from you and Jens.
Jim
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Originally posted by EricL
My bushings got greased, but I heard that some installs required a few layers of Teflon tape.
Comments?
My bushings got greased, but I heard that some installs required a few layers of Teflon tape.
Comments?
Jim
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Originally posted by EricL
My bushings got greased, but I heard that some installs required a few layers of Teflon tape.
Comments?
My bushings got greased, but I heard that some installs required a few layers of Teflon tape.
Comments?
Actually you are correct. Instead of lithium based grease, Comptech now provides teflon tape to wrap the rear bar where the poly bushings go. It seems to have worked o.k. We'll give it a while to see if this works as promised.
BTW - The sways are a great upgrade. If anyone is thinking of doing these, do it. No ride quality degradation at all. Car feels more "solid".
I'm Happy. And don't pay anyone to install these, they're not hard, just time consuming.
Jim
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Comptech Sways
Jim,
Thanks for the poop on the sways and that they are a great upgrade and do-able by us average-type folks. Are there any special tools or special knowledge required to do the install? Or is it straight forward?
I did my CAI install and the directions were so bad I felt like I was flying by the seat of my pants most of the time. It worked out, but took quite a few hours. What about the sways?
Preciate any insight.
-Pete
Thanks for the poop on the sways and that they are a great upgrade and do-able by us average-type folks. Are there any special tools or special knowledge required to do the install? Or is it straight forward?
I did my CAI install and the directions were so bad I felt like I was flying by the seat of my pants most of the time. It worked out, but took quite a few hours. What about the sways?
Preciate any insight.
-Pete
#22
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Pete - Not a problem, always enjoy sharing the wealth.
After lots of practice (3 vehicles) installing sway bars, strut bars, lower frame tie bars (you get the idea), I've found this the best for our CLS sways:
Small-Medium needle nose vise grip pliers, 1/2" drive ratchet handle, 14mm/12mm short/long sockets are your friends here.
There's actually enough room between the endlink, and sway bar to grab the mounting stud with the needle nose. Makes taking off those nasty 14mm nuts a snap! The frame mounting points are a no-brainer R&R.
If my 39 yr. old body would co-operate like it used too, I'd have had both front/rear done in under 2 hours. But a coffee break here, a smoke there, some air guitar for good measure, and 2.5 hours later I was done.
Like they say do the dew, dewd! You won't regret it.
HTH - Jim
After lots of practice (3 vehicles) installing sway bars, strut bars, lower frame tie bars (you get the idea), I've found this the best for our CLS sways:
Small-Medium needle nose vise grip pliers, 1/2" drive ratchet handle, 14mm/12mm short/long sockets are your friends here.
There's actually enough room between the endlink, and sway bar to grab the mounting stud with the needle nose. Makes taking off those nasty 14mm nuts a snap! The frame mounting points are a no-brainer R&R.
If my 39 yr. old body would co-operate like it used too, I'd have had both front/rear done in under 2 hours. But a coffee break here, a smoke there, some air guitar for good measure, and 2.5 hours later I was done.
Like they say do the dew, dewd! You won't regret it.
HTH - Jim
#23
Now that it's cold out mine thumps when I go over bumps (like railroad tracks), and squeaks when the car flexes (like a hard stop or a little bump) so I need mine to be greased and torqued I guess.
#24
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Originally posted by JRock
Now that it's cold out mine thumps when I go over bumps (like railroad tracks), and squeaks when the car flexes (like a hard stop or a little bump) so I need mine to be greased and torqued I guess.
Now that it's cold out mine thumps when I go over bumps (like railroad tracks), and squeaks when the car flexes (like a hard stop or a little bump) so I need mine to be greased and torqued I guess.
Good measure to recheck those anyway. Get busy!
Jim
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