so ever since i switched to moog end links i thought they were so great yadeeyaahhh.. only 2 yrs old..

for the past few months i have had this random clunk noise when going over speed bumps (on drivers side). thought nothing of it... had my car up on my hoist to do some rust proofing and when checking everything out i noticed the sway bar link could not move left or right with my hand.. all the others you can.. soo it was a SEIZED end link.. less than 2 years old and this supposedly top of the line end link is garbage!!

so i went and bought Nascar end links which are sealed and none greaseable and problem is fixed..


so no more moog for me.. why get ones that are more expensive that need to be regreased every 3 months (so it seems) when u can get cheaper sealed ones that require ZERO maintenance.

god my car is quiet now i cannot believe i waited this long to find the problem but oh well...

 

Just as I was getting ready to order some.. Where did you pick up those Nascar end links?

 

local parts store... they are just oem basically... nothing special.. i live in canada so partsource. im sure napa, or pep boys will have it..

main point is they are sealed.. yes they are a bit slimmed down slightly but hey if they last way longer require no maintenance and are cheaper, than it's a no brainer.

 

Lifetime warranty if you bought it from rockauto.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...155&cc=1364925

I'd say ~$30 + shipping for the endlinks with limited lifetime warranty is worth it.

In June when I did my front suspension rebuild Rockauto sent me a faulty end-link (it just had a deformed rubber boot). They sent me a replacement no questions asked and told me to do whatever with the other one.

 

^ that's good to know. I prefer moog and try to replace my parts with them when I can, although I don't have to deal with salt on the roads or snow.

 

all the more reason to get your car oil sprayed. it really makes a difference

 

Yea, I'm in Arizona. Not much salt on these roads. I like moog also, but I've been hearing a few stories like this about some of their products. Just do your research and determine if it's still worth getting (especially considering lifetime warranty on most of their parts). I forget who told me but they said the Moog lower control arm bushings started to fail after a short while.

- Frank

 

warranty or not i gotta go under the car, remove them and then get new ones?? just sounds retarded to me. time is money.. so the fact they may give u a whole new one for free actually doesn't make it free. it makes it convenient.

and uf u aint doing the work urself as i am then ur super screwed.. a free 30$ end link is the least of ur concerns

 

Yea, I'm doing it myself. You're right time is money. But money is also money. If your nascar end link bends or breaks, you still gotta buy another one if it's outside of warranty period(unless it's lifetime also). And you still gotta get under the car to remove and reinstall. So, based on your argument, where are your savings? You've agreed that this car can handle fine without a sway bar, therefore, you can remove the end link and still use the car while your waiting for a new end link.
Additionally, an endlink replacement is one step beyond removing a tire. That doesn't mean it's not a hassle but a dedicated worker can have it done in ~~30 minutes to 1 hour.
I haven't experienced a need for a replacement yet (beyond the first faulty endlink), but I think under certain circumstances, Rockauto will just send your the new one and ask you to return the old one or just toss it.
By your argument, you're saying all warranties are useless and stupid because you have to return the old part to the vendor to get a new part. That's how warranties work, you return an old part that has failed or broken and you get a new one.
I guess I'm advocating rockauto more because I spoke with customer service before and they said in most cases they'll send you a new one and ask you to return the old one. I understand the frustration when parts break or fail but getting one replaced for free is still better than paying for another brand. UNLESS the replacements continue to break or fail causing a continuous cycle of lost time, money due to repairs. But in your case, it was one faulty end link thus far. So I'd say a warranty would've benefited you.

Also what type if install/removal will it be for the nascar end link. Moog makes it simple and convenient with a 1/2" holding screw and a 15mm nut to lock them in place. OEM and other aftermarket brands require a 14mm lugnut with an unusual hex-key holder which in many cases strips or seizes causing additional effort to remove the end link (Time is money).

 

I noticed on the last set of Moog control arms i got they were made in china. I dont like that.

 

the removal is the exact same as the moogs.. no bs alan key to hold on to it.

i still needed to torch off the moogs due to seized bolts.

and i have never seen a bent end link.. so w/e one bends must be a cheap POS.

the front end link is so stubby there is no way i could see it bending,, lol there is nothing to bend..

for the rear they are 3 times longer and it may be possible to bend those, but not on our cars.. cause the weakest point is that cheap 20$ mounting bracket which i have ripped apart 3 or 4 times i cannot remember.

but i have never heard of or seen or experienced any bending of end links. that's not even a concern IMHO.

but w/e, it's hard to overlook how bad ass the moogs look when comparing them to another brand. but then on the other hand you cannot judge a book by its cover.

there really is no point in buying moogs cause there simply are no benefits.. oh wait they are regreasable right??.... because they are crap and need to be greased. lol

they won me over at first glance but experience tells the truth every time

 

Moog are quality product. How often in those 2 years did you grease them? I know plenty of people that have run them on their vehicles for years even in Minnesota where the roads are loaded with salt and they've had no issues.

 

On the front end link it's too stubby to bend, but on my old lexus es300, I had an aggressive drop on coils and at one point the endlink broke and wrapped around the coilover shock tower. It was weird I couldn't figure out how that happened, I then switched to moog and they never had a problem on that car afterwards.

Yea, that stupid damn mounting bracket broke on the driver side and the part that the mounting bracket mounts to which is part of the subframe started to tear. Needless to say I don't use an RSB for the time being. The moogs in the rear just hang there until I put the RSB back in. I put my konis on full dampened setting and it holds the rears nice and firm. I hope to see how it feels with an RSB in the future.

 

put the rsb on soft setting and it won't rip out.. that's what did it for me^

WEEZ if u read the thread you would have seen that i said i did not grease them and more importantly you really should not have to grease them 2 times a year. period.. that's why they are crap lol

 

So you didn't take proper care of your car and because of that it's the part maker's fault? I see.

As I said, I know plenty of people that have Moog on their car along with hundreds more on other sites and they have no issues. I'm going to have to side with the vast majority of people that believe that they're just fine parts.

 

i did not THINK i needed to grease them as every other end link doesn't require grease.

point is they are not sealed.. and therefore are not as good as everyone proclaims them to be. even the little rubber cover just sits there and allows everything to get inside the pivot.

anyways neither of us in changing our mind.

 

I just changed my oil and took a sec to check the status of the Moog Lower Control Arm Bushing (Outer Bushing which attaches the LCA to the Strut Fork). And it is smashed and cracking. Although I still stand by Moog, this is one of their products that isn't good.
Tomorrow I'm going to call Rockauto and see about a refund since I'll be getting an OEM bushing from Acura on Monday.
I did a suspension facelift on the front of the car so I'll take some time to check the status of the other Moog parts I installed.
Lower Control Arm Inner Bushing
Upper Control Arm Ball Joint
Lower Control Arm Ball Joint
Radius Rod Bushings
Stabilizer Bar Bushing
Sway Bar End Links

These were all installed in August 2012, and now it's November 2012.
So as of now, DO NOT GET MOOG LOWER CONTROL ARM OUTER BUSHINGS.
I'll update you guys on more to come later.

 

We really need to get Energy Suspension, or someone to make Urethane bushings for the control arms.

 

brian6speed is experimenting with the ES bushings below for the LCA's:

Here are the 2 part numbers you will need for the ES LCA bushings.


Here is what you will be using out of the 2 boxes.

 

Nice. Now to get a better replacement for the upper, they are under a lot of stress when cornering and what i keep wearing out. Be nice for something for the rears as well. Wonder if any of the prelude bushings will fit it as well?

 

^
From his supplied pictures, it appears that the larger bushes to the left are the inner LCA, the middle for the outer LCA; however, I'm not sure what the set on the right are for?

When you speak of '...a better replacement for the upper', do you mean the actual upper control arm? #4 & 5 on the link below.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

 

The ones on the left are the outer bushings for the LCA (the ones that the strut fork bolts to). The ones in the middle are inner bushing. Unless I'm backwards, you're backwards :P . zeta - you warned me about those bushings but I didn't think they would fail so quickly and easily.
I'm also very confused about the ones on the right, are those for the upper arm mounting bushings?. The items identified in the link are for the upper ball joint. My OEM bushings were still in great shape after 170k miles. I'll probably pick up the outer bushing from the dealer.
Any feedback from brian6speed about these?

 

It's hard to tell. I believe brian6speed is having the ones pictured installed in an extra set of LCA's that he has on hand. Hopefully, when he has them sorted, he will update his build thread with a few pictures that will depict there certain location.

Sorry, to hear. I thought it was just my car with the extra weight of the S/C'er in the front and the extremely crappy roads in my locale that prematurely did them in. They are SOFT.

Yeah, the parts diagram is confusing; however, if you look at the line item detail for #4 & 5 it lists them as:

51450-S84-A01 ARM, R. FR. (UPPER)
51460-S84-A01 ARM, L. FR. (UPPER)

The upper ball joint is inclusive to each of the upper arms when going OEM.

My best guess is that the bushes on the far right of Brian's picture are for perhaps the location on the upper arms where the (#12) 90172-S04-003 BOLT, FLANGE (10X68) goes.

 

I just ordered the Energy Suspension 16.3106R. I cross-referenced the part fitment between the Honda Odyssey/Accord with the part on the '01 CL-s and they are interchangeable. Mine will be red for easy visibility. I don't believe the bushings on the upper control arms are serviceable for these cars so I opted not to get the 16.8106 pictured.

 

^
Great, please give us a write-up on your impressions after you install the 16.3106R kit.

 

Correct, the uppers are different and can't be replaced. I may take a used set and see if I can weld a steel tube in their place so that a bushing like above can fit and be used

 

They have a zerk fitting for a reason.

 

Update: Fack 16.3106 contains LCA inner bushing and upper control arm bushings (which are useless to me because they don't work on the upper control arms). The bushing I need is 16.8106 and that's the LCA strut fork mount bushing. Ordering this today so maybe a couple more weeks before I finish this.