black2k3,

See page 2 of this thread for pics.

 

ya... hopefully there isn't any complications!

he's going to have his hands full for awhile

 

Just haven't followed this thread...

But yes, hands are full right now but it is fun.

As for blocking the EGR, it can easily be done. There are five pins on the EGR connector; the bottom two are for the duty cycle control of the valve.

The other three are 5VDC VCC, Sensor Ground and Lift Sensor Signal.

You can disconnect the connector on the EGR valve and use a resistor across the control terminals to simulate the valve, 1k Ohm @ 1 Watt should work fine. For the sensor feedback simulation, just use a 100k Ohm potentiometer as a voltage divider to supply 1.2 - 1.5 VDC back to the ECU.

This should work just fine provided what Doug has alluded to; the ECU will watch for a transition in the O2 voltage when the EGR valve is commanded open, is not complete. IMO, Honda hasn't been the most sophisticated in the ECU controls and although the math might be in there to check for this; it probably isn't that sensitive.

But regardless, the relevance of this is questionable. Eliminating the EGR won't really provide gains as it is closed during WOT anyway.

I was looking into this since the new manifold/IC would require cutting passages or eliminating the EGR system. But in the end I do think I will add it in for emissions compliance (I guess my environmentally conscious side got to me. ).

 

I am considering this mod now. I noted the EGR is active at idle and the mod is working at idle, however, any reference of the work of EGR valve that state the EGR is close at WOT?

Also, I am sure we will see some MPG drop with this mod.

Finally, if there is gains and the CLS feels lighter at partial throttle, why not? It is like a tiny SC!

 

A duty cycle monitor on the control signal would tell you the state at various throttle positions. Also, just monitoring the Lift Position sensor output signal would tell you the same.

 

speaking to MMII how might i clamp the ECT to a state that were just starting to warm up ...as if the engine coolant level had achieved 2 clicks of temp increase on the cars coolant temp gauge ???

 

I don't quite follow; you want the ECU to think the engine is warmer than it really is??

 

colder...i want to only allow signal through of full cold up until the first 2 clicks on the temp gauge 120-140*

 

Why .






Juker008

 

because timing is very advanced then

 

if the engine is cold, the ECU will pull back on timing, you will lose some 20 WHP at WOT!

 

not cold ...warm

 

type-r... in open loop mode ( when the engine in partial open throttle ) warning up the engine, you can not reach the max performace of the engine.

 

you're not hearing me... when i first start my car ,about 1-2 minutes later the car is just starting to warm ,up maybe 2 clicks on the temp gauge... in the heat from a rolling start i get on it...on the SS 1-2 it spins the tires hard with alot of torque steer, and then if i time it just right i bark 3rd ,this is not because of the temp of tires, this is to me a state of timing being advanced, due to one of 2 things,maybe both... cooler head temps ,low ECT value, scalbert has mentioned several times how much influence the ECT has on timing...i think it's both with an emphasis on the ECT ...i want to clamp off the info of a hotter ECT value to the ECU, allowing it only to see, say 140 or colder .i'd be willing to expriment, maybe 140 is too cold? try 150 then 160 with 160 being the max

 

OKay, I understand. You are in Blazing Florida, and your engine will heat soaked quickly.

It could a better choice to invest in low temp Thermo to keep the engine a bit cooler by 2 clicks all the time.

Nahsua.

 

The engine will go into closed loop as low as 100 - 120 F so that is not a problem. The engine also runs more timing with the lower ECT value, this is proven but IMO, limited. By going down to 140 degree you do not get the same linear timing increase as from 200 to 180 F.

However, if you try and trick the car into thinking it is colder than it really is you WILL suffer cold starting problem.

To lower the percieved temperature play with some resistors in series to get the desired value.

But why not just run a lower temp T-Stat??

 

well already have the mugen ...

 

Then you won't gain anything further. The reason you are feeling more power when cold is because the air entering the engine is cooler. Tricking the ECU won't really gain anything beyond what the T-Stat is giving you.

Also, consistant values below about 170 F would trigger a DTC.

 

About the T-Stat. Since I am the Southern most out of all of us couldn't I get away with just removing the T-Stat? Its not like the CLS is going to experence freezing weather anytime soon, not till teh next Ice-Age.









Juker008

 

If there is no freezing... empty the radiator and replace it with pure H20 and some Redline:
http://drs.yahoo.com/S=2766679/K=red...neoil/wwti.htm

 

You will, without a doubt, set a code. I drilled out the stock stat and set a code rather easily as it takes too long to warm up.

 

i'd say you''ll crack your heater core if you do that

 

Nash,

U know I would definatly go with pure H2O and watter wetter, but there is no lube in the water system. Thats why u would need coolant, it is the water systems lube. I would think that if only water were used the water pump would go out in a month.





Juker008

 

Ah... Realine recommends a minumun of 20% of anti-freeze.

 

Ahhh ok then, that sounds more logical.






Juker008