MM-I and MM-II Secret Revealed!
#42
Moderator Alumnus
Originally posted by Astroboy
ok...guys, this is great stuff...BUT....
I can only assume Steve's absence means that Jennifer has given birth!
so, I'd like to say CONGRATS STEVE I know it's been an awfully long process, but it's finally come full circle, congrats on the success
ok...guys, this is great stuff...BUT....
I can only assume Steve's absence means that Jennifer has given birth!
so, I'd like to say CONGRATS STEVE I know it's been an awfully long process, but it's finally come full circle, congrats on the success
ya... hopefully there isn't any complications!
he's going to have his hands full for awhile
#43
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Originally posted by SiGGy
ya... hopefully there isn't any complications!
he's going to have his hands full for awhile
ya... hopefully there isn't any complications!
he's going to have his hands full for awhile
But yes, hands are full right now but it is fun.
As for blocking the EGR, it can easily be done. There are five pins on the EGR connector; the bottom two are for the duty cycle control of the valve.
The other three are 5VDC VCC, Sensor Ground and Lift Sensor Signal.
You can disconnect the connector on the EGR valve and use a resistor across the control terminals to simulate the valve, 1k Ohm @ 1 Watt should work fine. For the sensor feedback simulation, just use a 100k Ohm potentiometer as a voltage divider to supply 1.2 - 1.5 VDC back to the ECU.
This should work just fine provided what Doug has alluded to; the ECU will watch for a transition in the O2 voltage when the EGR valve is commanded open, is not complete. IMO, Honda hasn't been the most sophisticated in the ECU controls and although the math might be in there to check for this; it probably isn't that sensitive.
But regardless, the relevance of this is questionable. Eliminating the EGR won't really provide gains as it is closed during WOT anyway.
I was looking into this since the new manifold/IC would require cutting passages or eliminating the EGR system. But in the end I do think I will add it in for emissions compliance (I guess my environmentally conscious side got to me. ).
#44
Happy CL-S Pilot
Thread Starter
Originally posted by scalbert
...
But regardless, the relevance of this is questionable. Eliminating the EGR won't really provide gains as it is closed during WOT anyway.
...
...
But regardless, the relevance of this is questionable. Eliminating the EGR won't really provide gains as it is closed during WOT anyway.
...
Also, I am sure we will see some MPG drop with this mod.
Finally, if there is gains and the CLS feels lighter at partial throttle, why not? It is like a tiny SC!
#45
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Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
any reference of the work of EGR valve that state the EGR is close at WOT?
any reference of the work of EGR valve that state the EGR is close at WOT?
#46
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by scalbert
A duty cycle monitor on the control signal would tell you the state at various throttle positions. Also, just monitoring the Lift Position sensor output signal would tell you the same.
A duty cycle monitor on the control signal would tell you the state at various throttle positions. Also, just monitoring the Lift Position sensor output signal would tell you the same.
#47
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Originally posted by typeR
speaking to MMII how might i clamp the ECT to a state that were just starting to warm up ...as if the engine coolant level had achieved 2 clicks of temp increase on the cars coolant temp gauge ???
speaking to MMII how might i clamp the ECT to a state that were just starting to warm up ...as if the engine coolant level had achieved 2 clicks of temp increase on the cars coolant temp gauge ???
#48
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by scalbert
I don't quite follow; you want the ECU to think the engine is warmer than it really is??
I don't quite follow; you want the ECU to think the engine is warmer than it really is??
#53
Happy CL-S Pilot
Thread Starter
type-r... in open loop mode ( when the engine in partial open throttle ) warning up the engine, you can not reach the max performace of the engine.
#54
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
type-r... in open loop mode ( when the engine in partial open throttle ) warning up the engine, you can not reach the max performace of the engine.
type-r... in open loop mode ( when the engine in partial open throttle ) warning up the engine, you can not reach the max performace of the engine.
#55
Happy CL-S Pilot
Thread Starter
OKay, I understand. You are in Blazing Florida, and your engine will heat soaked quickly.
It could a better choice to invest in low temp Thermo to keep the engine a bit cooler by 2 clicks all the time.
Nahsua.
It could a better choice to invest in low temp Thermo to keep the engine a bit cooler by 2 clicks all the time.
Nahsua.
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The engine will go into closed loop as low as 100 - 120 F so that is not a problem. The engine also runs more timing with the lower ECT value, this is proven but IMO, limited. By going down to 140 degree you do not get the same linear timing increase as from 200 to 180 F.
However, if you try and trick the car into thinking it is colder than it really is you WILL suffer cold starting problem.
To lower the percieved temperature play with some resistors in series to get the desired value.
But why not just run a lower temp T-Stat??
However, if you try and trick the car into thinking it is colder than it really is you WILL suffer cold starting problem.
To lower the percieved temperature play with some resistors in series to get the desired value.
But why not just run a lower temp T-Stat??
#58
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Then you won't gain anything further. The reason you are feeling more power when cold is because the air entering the engine is cooler. Tricking the ECU won't really gain anything beyond what the T-Stat is giving you.
Also, consistant values below about 170 F would trigger a DTC.
Also, consistant values below about 170 F would trigger a DTC.
#59
About the T-Stat. Since I am the Southern most out of all of us couldn't I get away with just removing the T-Stat? Its not like the CLS is going to experence freezing weather anytime soon, not till teh next Ice-Age.
Juker008
Juker008
#60
Happy CL-S Pilot
Thread Starter
If there is no freezing... empty the radiator and replace it with pure H20 and some Redline:
http://drs.yahoo.com/S=2766679/K=red...neoil/wwti.htm
http://drs.yahoo.com/S=2766679/K=red...neoil/wwti.htm
#61
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Originally posted by Juker008
About the T-Stat. Since I am the Southern most out of all of us couldn't I get away with just removing the T-Stat? Its not like the CLS is going to experence freezing weather anytime soon, not till teh next Ice-Age.
About the T-Stat. Since I am the Southern most out of all of us couldn't I get away with just removing the T-Stat? Its not like the CLS is going to experence freezing weather anytime soon, not till teh next Ice-Age.
#62
Senior Moderator
Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
If there is no freezing... empty the radiator and replace it with pure H20 and some Redline:
http://drs.yahoo.com/S=2766679/K=red...neoil/wwti.htm
If there is no freezing... empty the radiator and replace it with pure H20 and some Redline:
http://drs.yahoo.com/S=2766679/K=red...neoil/wwti.htm
#63
Nash,
U know I would definatly go with pure H2O and watter wetter, but there is no lube in the water system. Thats why u would need coolant, it is the water systems lube. I would think that if only water were used the water pump would go out in a month.
Juker008
U know I would definatly go with pure H2O and watter wetter, but there is no lube in the water system. Thats why u would need coolant, it is the water systems lube. I would think that if only water were used the water pump would go out in a month.
Juker008
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