I've noticed the resposiveness and perhaps some power loss in the last week. I was experiencing similar kind of problems when my actuator went out a few months ago. But, I've checked to see if the actuator is ok, and it's clicking over. Could it still be faulty if it's clicking over?
I havent changed the tranny fluid yet, could that be the problem?
The car has 33k miles on it...
If it's not the actuator or tranny fluid, what else can it be?
Thanx for any help....

 

Have you checked/cleaned your air filter?

 

I've cleaned it back in August, I didnt use the K&N cleaning kit though, just water.....

 

You really want to use the kit...

Otherwise ... don't know...

 

The filteration only works with OIL.... It should be oiled.....

 

the kit is def the way to go

from many uses

 

Does Texas change over to oxygenated petrol for the winter?

 

We dont b/c we dont really have winter weathers....
I just drove the car and the power loss is felt in the midrange, between 2800-4500rpm. Could a dirty filter really be a cause of this?

 

I just replaced the filter, changed the atf....Still the car feels unresponsive....What else could it be?

 

Check the PCV value for oil. I had a power lose in my car after having my oil changed by the dealership. The power lose was from oil in the PCV value.

Matthew

 

Well, I just had the oil change along with a AT fluid change.
I am sure the shop would have mentioned something about the PVC valve....It's got to be something else.

 

I thought Acura would check the PCV value too, but they don't. I would check it just to be on the safe side.

Matthew

 

Ok, what exactly does it look like? Where exactly is it located? What exactly should be done in order to see if the oil is present?
Thanx Matt.....

 

Ok, here is the story. I had the dealership did my 15,000 mile service. After the service the car lost a good amount of power and my gas mileage went to shit. I took it into the dealership and they had my car for a couple of days trying to find the problem. After a good amount of work and computer checks, they check the PCV valve system and found oil which was blocking the system. They replaced the PCV Valve and cleaned all the tubing and the car started running great again. I would be more than willing show you how to replace and clean it if I knew myself.

Maybe someone with the service manual can tell you where the PCV Valve System is in our cars.

I wish I could be if more help!

Matthew

 

AT a minimum, if it isn't working correctly, it will recycle too much exhaust gas back into the intake and make the combustion fizzle.

Warranty item == free. Let them check you out.

 

Thanx guys, I'll have the dealership look at it...You think they'll give me crap since I have a CAI?

 

Hope they take care of it and let us know what the problem was.

 

I had the mechanic look at today. He checked the pcv valve right in front of me and showed me that the air is coming out. Then drove the car a little, got back and told me that he doesnt notice any power losses. Further, he stated it is probably the gas switch to the winter mode at the pumps that causes that. And told me to try and use a different gas station and give it a couple tanks to adapt to the conversion.
I am a little skeptical of the whole thing. What do you guys make of this?

 

that sounds like alot of excuses for "we really have no idea whats wrong with your car sir..no clue whatsoever"

not to mention, with all the shit you have on your car..mods, stereo, etc...its probably impossible for them to compare your car to anything

 

have a dyno!

 

Thats a good idea...That way I'll know for sure whether any power is lost or not!!! I am 2 lazy to search the archives, what hp #'s should I expect with a header and CAI mod in general?

 

3rd gear run on a Dynojet -- in mixed weather conditions -- will return:

HP: 222 (low?) up to 236 (high?) (I/H + auto)
TQ: should look "flat" up to 6K + (small peak at 6100 rpm).

Probably couldn't hurt to check the WOT fuel-air mix...

Optional:
If possible, make 'em give you a 3.5" disk with the raw data and a copy of WinPep (or you can get a copy of WinPep from one of the members or online).

Did you try this #1:

You should at least try different gas for a try and/or find some "rocket fuel" (100-octane) to toss in. (It's not for the octane, but for the better formulation and additives).

Did you try this #2:

Have you checked your cold inflation pressures in your tires?

RE: "some" techs:

If there are no OBD II codes showing, a lot of mechanics will "blow you off" -- it depends...

YMMV