is the fuse u use to hardwire V1 at risk to blowing or shorting out any more than if there was no wiring at all?? how bout shorts or melting the housing unit for the fuses due to the exposed wire around the tip of the fuse??

 

I have used this method many X over and have never had a problem as long as you put the wire in a fuse terminal that is rated the same as the V1 (which I think is 10A) Use one of those $.99 fuse/ wire connectors specifically for running off the box. It basically slips around the fuse and you crimp the wire in the connector, plugging the fuse back in for a nice clean tap.

I took power from overhead, inside the map lights and glasses holder- running to the detector just above the rearview mirror. I also tucked in link fuse just for extra piece of mind.

 

It would take a lot more than 12volts to melt the housing. By then the fuse would blow and no current. Make use you have the correct size fuse to protect the V1.

You should tap for power with a wire with fuse protection. If your paranoid, rig two fuses.

Rereading your question, sound like you need to make a new connector. No copper should be exposed on the connector. You'll surely ground the wire and blow the fuse.