got pulled over by an undercover cop yesterday night (he was in a dark-red Toyota Landcrusier!)
He didn't like my "christmas" blue lights on my CL...went on about how only police and emergency vehicles can have solid blue lights...anyways he only gave me a warning...so after getting home I ordered the Raybrig Hyperwhites on eautoworks...anyone have these? my friend said they're suppose to be brighter than piaas and polargs... Raybring also have two color bulbs(green and blue)...but I think those are also "illegal"

just got my sounds system...it's pretty good, but I notice rattles coming from the spolier when the bass hits...like the whole spolier is vibrating...any of you with subs have this problem? and solution...if any exist....

thanks!


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Silver CL-S: 35% metallic tint, spolier, wheel locks, black pin stripes, 12" Blaupunk sub, 600W Kenwood amp, Raybrig Hyperwhite Wedge Bulbs(coming soon)

 

Where are these blue lights and how bright are they?

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01 CL-S NightHawk Black/Ebony Bowling Ball Interior

 

i had those raybrigs if you remember my comparison with like 5 other types of bulbs.

i liked them the best, BUT they ALL burned out (i ordered 2 sets, both burned out) within a month. they also had a coat of ash on them when i took them out (like the glass was burning on the inside of the bulb). they are bright at first but they slowly dim and until they are as bright as 16w generic wedge bulbs, then burn out.

i think it is because of the bulbs more than anything else as no one with polargs (18w=36w also) had any problems, and i dont'have problems with my current 16w sylvanias either.

 

I have the PIAA 19169's in there and so far no big deal. My high beams are Solaris and they look blue when they are off but not so bad when on. Is that what we are talking about or a different kind of blue bulb?

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01 CL-S NightHawk Black/Ebony Bowling Ball Interior

 

i think we'retalking about the roadlamp bulbs (ie your piaas 19somethings).

the raybrigs are a larger bulb with the same small wedge.

 

I have the exact same problem. It sounds terrible from outside the car. I really don't think there is a solution for this problem. I've talked to several audio shops around here and they all say that the only way to get rid of the rattling is to coat the trunk with 2" of steel. I really don't think this car needs any more wieght added to it.

 

is there any way to utilize Dynomat, either the foam or the cut pieces, to insulate the trunk?

 

Dynomat will help somewhat...but what it comes down to is that the speaker is in the trunk...what will help a little is if you leave the pass thorough open...that way the bass can escape and less of it will be trapped in your trunk. We don't have hatches...so, that's what happens...

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2001 Cl-S Black on Black with Navigation
Weapon-R Dragon Filter

 

they'll burn out??!!! cost about $19 for the pair...damn....
did you buy the bulbs from eautowork over the internet?




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Silver CL-S: 35% metallic tint, spolier, wheel locks, black pin stripes, 12" Blaupunk sub, 600W Kenwood amp, Raybrig Hyperwhite Wedge Bulbs(coming soon)

 

yeah i'm having the guy at the shop drill a hole through the metal covering of the pass and putting a 4" speaker grill over the hole...should look better than just having the pass open

any idea if the vibration will damage the spoiler over long term....it shakes pretty good



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Silver CL-S: 35% metallic tint, spolier, wheel locks, black pin stripes, 12" Blaupunk sub, 600W Kenwood amp, Raybrig Hyperwhite Wedge Bulbs(coming soon)