LED Conversion Started
#42
i know you can buy led reflectors that will make the light more visible from different angles.. they look like miniature versions of those things that they put on dogs to keep them from biting themselves.. i bought some when i made my led taillight.. have you tried that to disperse the light
#43
Originally posted by BrutusHayes
i know you can buy led reflectors that will make the light more visible from different angles.. they look like miniature versions of those things that they put on dogs to keep them from biting themselves.. i bought some when i made my led taillight.. have you tried that to disperse the light
i know you can buy led reflectors that will make the light more visible from different angles.. they look like miniature versions of those things that they put on dogs to keep them from biting themselves.. i bought some when i made my led taillight.. have you tried that to disperse the light
they don't work in small applications, not enough room to do it
if my brother would let me open his tsx cluster i could figure it out, but he won't
#44
Those pics help... the circuit boards seem to have these little tiny screw-in bulbs that are on a mount that can just be turned and pulled through the board and released.
I tried cutting the positive leg off an LED and soldering a resistor to it instead - works ok - won't be good enough for tight applications... yours looks like you just bent the leg up, soldered the resistor right next to it - that appears to be the best way... if you have more photos you wanna share - by all means!
I tried cutting the positive leg off an LED and soldering a resistor to it instead - works ok - won't be good enough for tight applications... yours looks like you just bent the leg up, soldered the resistor right next to it - that appears to be the best way... if you have more photos you wanna share - by all means!
#47
Originally posted by jriga
Those pics help... the circuit boards seem to have these little tiny screw-in bulbs that are on a mount that can just be turned and pulled through the board and released.
I tried cutting the positive leg off an LED and soldering a resistor to it instead - works ok - won't be good enough for tight applications... yours looks like you just bent the leg up, soldered the resistor right next to it - that appears to be the best way... if you have more photos you wanna share - by all means!
Those pics help... the circuit boards seem to have these little tiny screw-in bulbs that are on a mount that can just be turned and pulled through the board and released.
I tried cutting the positive leg off an LED and soldering a resistor to it instead - works ok - won't be good enough for tight applications... yours looks like you just bent the leg up, soldered the resistor right next to it - that appears to be the best way... if you have more photos you wanna share - by all means!
the radio, mirror and navi are soldered onto the circuit boards
and yeah i soldered the led right to the negative leg then to the board and the positive doesn't get a resistor only negative side
#48
Originally posted by rbf351
certain ones have screw in type
the radio, mirror and navi are soldered onto the circuit boards
and yeah i soldered the led right to the negative leg then to the board and the positive doesn't get a resistor only negative side
certain ones have screw in type
the radio, mirror and navi are soldered onto the circuit boards
and yeah i soldered the led right to the negative leg then to the board and the positive doesn't get a resistor only negative side
Did you test any of your connections with a Multimeter, or did you just say screw it and solder the thing together??
A guy I was talking to said putting a resistor on won't hurt anything, but can only help. If there is the right amount of power coming from a factory connection, putting a resistor on will still allow that power to come through - it just makes sure that any higher mA coming through get cut down... is this the case I wonder?
That neg solder to the resistor perplexes me. Why neg?
#51
About resistance.
This whole 'where to put the resistor' thing got me researching.
As it turns out, it doesn't make any difference where the resistor goes, either + or -
Website:
People often think that the resistor must come first in the path from positive to negative, to limit the amount of current flowing through the LED. But, the current is limited by the resistor no matter where the resistor is. Even when you first turn on the power, the current will be limited to a certain amount, and can be found using ohm’s law.
Blah blah blah - more importantly - the paper says you don't need a resistor if you can ensure you are using all the power through several LEDs at once.
Hence, 12volts with 3.2V/LED = 3 LEDS to eat that power at that connection point.
As it turns out, it doesn't make any difference where the resistor goes, either + or -
Website:
People often think that the resistor must come first in the path from positive to negative, to limit the amount of current flowing through the LED. But, the current is limited by the resistor no matter where the resistor is. Even when you first turn on the power, the current will be limited to a certain amount, and can be found using ohm’s law.
Blah blah blah - more importantly - the paper says you don't need a resistor if you can ensure you are using all the power through several LEDs at once.
Hence, 12volts with 3.2V/LED = 3 LEDS to eat that power at that connection point.
#53
Re: About resistance.
Originally posted by jriga
This whole 'where to put the resistor' thing got me researching.
As it turns out, it doesn't make any difference where the resistor goes, either + or -
Website:
People often think that the resistor must come first in the path from positive to negative, to limit the amount of current flowing through the LED. But, the current is limited by the resistor no matter where the resistor is. Even when you first turn on the power, the current will be limited to a certain amount, and can be found using ohm’s law.
Blah blah blah - more importantly - the paper says you don't need a resistor if you can ensure you are using all the power through several LEDs at once.
Hence, 12volts with 3.2V/LED = 3 LEDS to eat that power at that connection point.
This whole 'where to put the resistor' thing got me researching.
As it turns out, it doesn't make any difference where the resistor goes, either + or -
Website:
People often think that the resistor must come first in the path from positive to negative, to limit the amount of current flowing through the LED. But, the current is limited by the resistor no matter where the resistor is. Even when you first turn on the power, the current will be limited to a certain amount, and can be found using ohm’s law.
Blah blah blah - more importantly - the paper says you don't need a resistor if you can ensure you are using all the power through several LEDs at once.
Hence, 12volts with 3.2V/LED = 3 LEDS to eat that power at that connection point.
#57
god......i REALLY, REALLLLLY wanna do this to my car. I've had this thought on my mind forever, but I certainly cannot do this myself, and I know NOBODY that could. What a burn
Awesome work man! Keep it up.
Awesome work man! Keep it up.
#60
awesome work jriga and rbf351!! i think the both of you should team up to make a tutorial.
also, i'm still hazy about the cluster led. on my friends 99 accord coupe, he was able to put in a 194 led bulb. is it the same wiht the cl? or are they individual leds that need soldering?
also, i'm still hazy about the cluster led. on my friends 99 accord coupe, he was able to put in a 194 led bulb. is it the same wiht the cl? or are they individual leds that need soldering?
#61
Originally posted by typeSb00st
awesome work jriga and rbf351!! i think the both of you should team up to make a tutorial.
also, i'm still hazy about the cluster led. on my friends 99 accord coupe, he was able to put in a 194 led bulb. is it the same wiht the cl? or are they individual leds that need soldering?
awesome work jriga and rbf351!! i think the both of you should team up to make a tutorial.
also, i'm still hazy about the cluster led. on my friends 99 accord coupe, he was able to put in a 194 led bulb. is it the same wiht the cl? or are they individual leds that need soldering?
#64
Originally posted by typeSb00st
awesome work jriga and rbf351!! i think the both of you should team up to make a tutorial.
also, i'm still hazy about the cluster led. on my friends 99 accord coupe, he was able to put in a 194 led bulb. is it the same wiht the cl? or are they individual leds that need soldering?
awesome work jriga and rbf351!! i think the both of you should team up to make a tutorial.
also, i'm still hazy about the cluster led. on my friends 99 accord coupe, he was able to put in a 194 led bulb. is it the same wiht the cl? or are they individual leds that need soldering?
I'll post something about it ocne I get into the dash in that manner. Would certainly make it easier...
On the 99 Accord - did it make a big difference in gauge brightness?
#65
Originally posted by jriga
Does anyone know - do you have to take the door panel off to get to the power window switches, or do they somehow come out of there????
Does anyone know - do you have to take the door panel off to get to the power window switches, or do they somehow come out of there????
they are screwed in, u need to lift up the mirror switch a little to get to the screw
i think there are 3 total
not sure if this pic help, but u can see where the screws kinda are
#66
Originally posted by jriga
Interesting - I haven't cracked open the cluster yet - so I dunno if this will work, or if perhaps the wedge LED bulbs aren't as bright as the others...
I'll post something about it ocne I get into the dash in that manner. Would certainly make it easier...
On the 99 Accord - did it make a big difference in gauge brightness?
Interesting - I haven't cracked open the cluster yet - so I dunno if this will work, or if perhaps the wedge LED bulbs aren't as bright as the others...
I'll post something about it ocne I get into the dash in that manner. Would certainly make it easier...
On the 99 Accord - did it make a big difference in gauge brightness?
also here is the inside of the cluster before i figured out how where every led went
as u can see there are only 6 bulbs to light up the cluster, the placement of those 6 bulbs are to light up the needles too
#69
Those photos help alot... thanks again!
The memory switch is FINAL. Got the resistor in, LEDs in, and the power is flowing through and steady - lights are not changing color or burning out - got the correct voltage measured - the rest of the car should be ALOT easier from here forward...
That does not look good with just replacing the normal bulb with an LED wedge - the custom look wouldn't be possible either.
I'm going to do the door switches in the next day or so... I took tons of photos.
If you have more photos that I could download - and you have any free time to put them somewhere to download - let me know - they help soooo much...
The memory switch is FINAL. Got the resistor in, LEDs in, and the power is flowing through and steady - lights are not changing color or burning out - got the correct voltage measured - the rest of the car should be ALOT easier from here forward...
That does not look good with just replacing the normal bulb with an LED wedge - the custom look wouldn't be possible either.
I'm going to do the door switches in the next day or so... I took tons of photos.
If you have more photos that I could download - and you have any free time to put them somewhere to download - let me know - they help soooo much...
#71
for the 99 accord, my friend tells me it's soo much brighter and better looking.
rbf351 - you need to make a how-to for this!!! :
[/B][/QUOTE]
i really want to do this when school is out for summer heheh
rbf351 - you need to make a how-to for this!!! :
[/B][/QUOTE]
i really want to do this when school is out for summer heheh
#74
Originally posted by withoutcomp1
What size resistors?
What size resistors?
#75
Originally posted by jriga
I have no idea - I orderd my LEDs from a guy that understood what I was doing and sent me the correct (we hope) LEDs. They are blue, and have 4 bands on them. That's all I can say... lol
I have no idea - I orderd my LEDs from a guy that understood what I was doing and sent me the correct (we hope) LEDs. They are blue, and have 4 bands on them. That's all I can say... lol
i learned the heard way and had to replace alot of the leds and resistors
#77
Originally posted by rbf351
if it's the ebay guy then they are the wrong ones, and only work for 12V applications which woul;d be fine if we never started the car which makes it 14V
i learned the heard way and had to replace alot of the leds and resistors
if it's the ebay guy then they are the wrong ones, and only work for 12V applications which woul;d be fine if we never started the car which makes it 14V
i learned the heard way and had to replace alot of the leds and resistors
I just went out and tested the circuit it's on - on no ignition my car tests at under 12V - about 11.2V or so...
Running, it tests to about 12.1-12.3V
Where does this 14V come from?
#78
Originally posted by jriga
Interesting - didn't think of that? So a 12V system charges to 14V on ignition?? My resistor is allowing the correct voltage and mA through, so I'm not worried about having the right resistor in there. it's letting 3V in with 22/24mA, well under the rating of the LED...
I just went out and tested the circuit it's on - on no ignition my car tests at under 12V - about 11.2V or so...
Running, it tests to about 12.1-12.3V
Where does this 14V come from?
Interesting - didn't think of that? So a 12V system charges to 14V on ignition?? My resistor is allowing the correct voltage and mA through, so I'm not worried about having the right resistor in there. it's letting 3V in with 22/24mA, well under the rating of the LED...
I just went out and tested the circuit it's on - on no ignition my car tests at under 12V - about 11.2V or so...
Running, it tests to about 12.1-12.3V
Where does this 14V come from?
i'm sure certain circuits only limited to 12v, but the cluster light don't, nor do the climate control or radio
#80
Originally posted by rbf351
the alternator bumps the voltage upto 14V to charge the battery back
i'm sure certain circuits only limited to 12v, but the cluster light don't, nor do the climate control or radio
the alternator bumps the voltage upto 14V to charge the battery back
i'm sure certain circuits only limited to 12v, but the cluster light don't, nor do the climate control or radio
Think this is enough?