Just received my xs power headers
#1
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
Just received my xs power headers
I bought a cls 6 speed about a month ago and wanted to get headers. I was originally going to order the srs headers but they said they had none left and weren't sure if they were getting anymore. I looked up xs power headers and emailed them even though many people warned not to do so. I got a hold of a guy named rich which was helpful and guaranteed they would send me headers with a bend in the rear to fit the 6 speed. I went ahead and took a chance and ordered the headers. My experience with the company was good and didn't have any real problems with communication with the company. My package arrived today and was packed well and I recieved what I was supposed to. I will try to install them soon and post pictures of the install and verify they fit. I do not have any affiliation with the company, I am just trying to share my experience.
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#9
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
If I don't have mine done by then let me know how it goes. Hopefully I will get some time to do them soon
#10
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I started a thread in the TL section, gonna post a review and pictures when I get them installed. Also dropping in a j35a3 with PnP IM, runners & heads with j32a2 cams milled .020, should make getting groceries and taking the kids to school a little more fun!!!
#14
Pro
iTrader: (6)
I actually have a (rear-ended) complete cls6 setting in the back yard, and have a 3.7 manifold on the work bench. Kinda want to find a chassis CL, TL, accord coupe, something on the cheap, gut it then swap in the cls6 drive train, pair of race seats and make a track car. Not able to drive a manual right now
#15
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I bet, track prepped cars on the road are stupid fun!! How compliant do you have your CL sprung, does it bet you up on public roads?
#16
Probably similar to any CL on coilovers. It does not bother me at all, even on 8 hour drives. I find it more comfortable than other cars with full interior. Mine is 12k front, 8k rear. The front is perfect, but I want to go stiffer on the rear. Same spring rates they sell for street cars. Less weight, especially in rear so suspenson is doing less work. The Roll Bar makes the rear suspension do more work though since the body is no longer its own spring.
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03 tls nc (12-31-2014)
#17
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
I actually have a (rear-ended) complete cls6 setting in the back yard, and have a 3.7 manifold on the work bench. Kinda want to find a chassis CL, TL, accord coupe, something on the cheap, gut it then swap in the cls6 drive train, pair of race seats and make a track car. Not able to drive a manual right now
#18
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
All the flanges of the j pipe are 2", The piping where it connects to the cat looks like it is about 2.25" but they put a 2" flange on it. I'll try to get some pictures tomorrow.
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teh CL (01-05-2015)
#19
There is a lip to hold the crush gasket. You can grind that lip off and use regular gaskets instead to open it up slightly.
The following 2 users liked this post by brian6speed:
03 tls nc (01-02-2015),
Stephen00TL (01-01-2015)
#22
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I was actually thinking about chopping the J - pipe where the 2 down pipes merge and add a section of 2.5" pipe with a 2.5" flex/flange to connect to my exhaust, which is 2.5" also.
Shouldn't cost too much and it'll def benefit the J35..
#24
Racer
I tried to install these on mine. It had the bend and everything but it wouldn't clear the motor mount with out taking it off first. Once the rear header was on, the angle off the the header was wrong and would not match up the the down pipe it connects to. Ended up returning them .. after a process! and got the SRS ones for honda accord, same issue with the motor mount but once everything was in place there was no issue connecting the down pipe. Noticed a gain instantly! Definitely worth it in my opinion, even though it is a hassle getting them on
#25
Completely missed this, Thanks man.
I was actually thinking about chopping the J - pipe where the 2 down pipes merge and add a section of 2.5" pipe with a 2.5" flex/flange to connect to my exhaust, which is 2.5" also.
Shouldn't cost too much and it'll def benefit the J35..
I was actually thinking about chopping the J - pipe where the 2 down pipes merge and add a section of 2.5" pipe with a 2.5" flex/flange to connect to my exhaust, which is 2.5" also.
Shouldn't cost too much and it'll def benefit the J35..
You could chop the collector section off, then add a true merge collector.
There are probably crush gaskets and lips where the header manifolds connect to the downpipe. You might want to open those also.
I have a transition below the header manifolds and also after the collector. They should help with exhaust velocity. Want to get it ceramic coated which will help with heat and also keeps the heat inside the piping which also helps exhaust velocity.
Last edited by brian6speed; 01-06-2015 at 12:35 PM.
#27
Pro
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I tried to install these on mine. It had the bend and everything but it wouldn't clear the motor mount with out taking it off first. Once the rear header was on, the angle off the the header was wrong and would not match up the the down pipe it connects to. Ended up returning them .. after a process! and got the SRS ones for honda accord, same issue with the motor mount but once everything was in place there was no issue connecting the down pipe. Noticed a gain instantly! Definitely worth it in my opinion, even though it is a hassle getting them on
I just bolted my XS headers up with no problems! I'm still auto so I can't speak about clearing the 6 speed mount clearance.
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Stephen00TL (01-08-2015)
#30
Pro
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I'm really liking the headers, I did go from a J32A2 to a J35A3 with headers but they fit with no issues. For an almost 2 ton car the TL really screams now!! Well worth the money for a close Comptech clone.
Last edited by 03 tls nc; 01-11-2015 at 12:01 PM.
#31
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
Finally got the headers put on the car today, I tried to do it last week but could get the bolts off the cat. The fitment was perfect, the rear header slid right in and there is plenty of clearance. I did not have to loosen the rear mount to get the rear header in place. The car feels much better and the tires break loose easier now. One thing I noticed today is I feel more power down low than I did with the stock headers. I don't remember feeling more down low power when I put headers on my old tl but it's been awhile. It feels quicker throughout the entire rpm range as well. I will try to upload some pictures tomorrow. I paid $260 free shipping which I think is a pretty good deal as I paid a little over $300 for my dc sport headers on my old tl a few years ago. I would recommend you do it if you haven't already.
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PVP01CL-P (01-28-2015)
#37
I had some spare daylight today so I was looking at the engine to see what the headers install will be like. I sprayed PB Blaster on all the nuts & bolts. I removed the heat shield on front. I was wary of broken bolts but they came off easy. I broke loose a manifold nut just to see how easy it would be.
The front looks easy enough. I'm sure removing the fans would make a lot of space to work.
The rear doesn't look so easy. Did you remove anything to get working room? Did you do all the work on the rear manifold from the bottom? Oh and did you find a way to mount the heat shields?
The front looks easy enough. I'm sure removing the fans would make a lot of space to work.
The rear doesn't look so easy. Did you remove anything to get working room? Did you do all the work on the rear manifold from the bottom? Oh and did you find a way to mount the heat shields?
#38
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
Thread Starter
I had some spare daylight today so I was looking at the engine to see what the headers install will be like. I sprayed PB Blaster on all the nuts & bolts. I removed the heat shield on front. I was wary of broken bolts but they came off easy. I broke loose a manifold nut just to see how easy it would be.
The front looks easy enough. I'm sure removing the fans would make a lot of space to work.
The rear doesn't look so easy. Did you remove anything to get working room? Did you do all the work on the rear manifold from the bottom? Oh and did you find a way to mount the heat shields?
The front looks easy enough. I'm sure removing the fans would make a lot of space to work.
The rear doesn't look so easy. Did you remove anything to get working room? Did you do all the work on the rear manifold from the bottom? Oh and did you find a way to mount the heat shields?
You don't need to remove the fans there is plenty of room. Make sure you can get the bolts off the cat, I had to take mine to a shop to get them to loosen them. The rear is difficult but I got everything out from the bottom. The hardest part is just getting tools in to tighten The rear because there is not a lot of room. I didn't reuse the heat shields I threw them away. Once you get the old parts out putting in the new stuff doesn't take long at all.
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mike88se (02-13-2015),
musiclevelz5 (05-06-2015)
#40
Just got a shipping notice... from China I jacked the car up yesterday and gave everything a first shot of PB blaster. Those cat nuts&bolts are hopeless. Welded together by heat and rust and one was already rounded off. I know a shop that would probably remove the cat and put it back with new hardware for 20 or so.