bigmark89

The alternator and A/C belt is 20mm x 1135mm (13/16" x 44- 3/4")

The power steering belt is 14mm x 1095mm (9/16" x 43-1/8")

So you need belts that are those exact sizes

-Mark

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

I dont think I have a 5 foot metal pole lying around is there any other way?

bigmark89

Go to home depot, by some 4 - 5 foot pipe and when your done take it back and return it.

Or another method would be the 'jack' method where you have the very bottom of the breaker bar handle facing down and angled forward. Pretty much if you were to put the breaker bar ontop of a clock, you want the handle to be in between 3 and 4 o'clock. Then you take a jack and put it as far back on the handle as possible so that when you jack it up, the breaker bar turns rather than just pushing up on the nut.

Then you SLOWLY jack it up until you hear a loud noise. The noise will either be the nut coming off succesfully, or something breaking. The problem with this method is that its risky becuase you can break the breaker bar and/or if you dont have the breaker bar and jack angled correctly you could possibly damage crankshaft components because instead of the force being put on the bar and the nut, the pressure is put on the pulley and other crank components.

Whatever you decide to do, always remember to take your time and THINK. Be rational and dont do something if you're not comfortable doing it and do it at your discretion. So if something breaks, dont blame me, LoL

Good Luck and keep us updated

-Mark

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

k so 4pk1080 means it's only 1080 mm correct? so that last 4 digits must be 1135 and 1095?

bigmark89

No, it doesnt work that way, the last four digits arent the same as the length.


Alternator, A/C belt - 6PK1121 (20mm X 1135mm)

Power Steering belt - 4PK1081 (14mm X 1095mm)

-Mark

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

So I let the bolt soak overnight in pb blaster and went to home depot and got a 5 ft steel pole. I tried the starter method first and it didnt work then I tried using the pole and put so much torque on the extender it broke it in half then I tried the pole again and bent the dang thing now I cant take it back. this is just so irritating

fsttyms1

I lifted the side of my car off the jack stand taking mine off with a 2' breaker bar with a 6' pipe taking mine off. (broke 2 craftsman breaker bars trying)

StonedCL

iTrader: (1)

Dang, after all the trouble you seem to be going through im kinda happy I sub contracted this job out to the techs. I think it was worth the $42.00 i paid for everything all-together. They charge workers $35 / hour and I got them to write it up as 1 hour work so after taxes and some other BS charges it was $42.. Good Luck with that 2fast4you...The easiest thing to do is turning out to be the hardest 4 u!

bigmark89

Wow, so you the amount of force needed to take the nut off actually lifted your car up off the jack stand??? Thats sick, the 4 times I did crank pulleys on friends cars ive never had anything like that happen. Ive never even broken anything, the breaker bar and long pipe worked for me when I tried it.

-Mark

bigmark89

Damn man that sucks, getting that thing off is definitely a big pain in the ass. I've never had anyting break on me when I did crank pulleys, but you can try to heat the nut up with a torch as a last resort. The heat expands it, increasing the gap in between the threads making it alot easier to take off. Make sure to keep the flame on the nut and use an airgun or a breaker bar with the pipe and it should come off. I've even used a heatgun when I havent had access to a torch, it takes longer to heat up the nut but it works too.

A regular propane torch from homedepot will work, it would help if you already have one or know someone who has one.

GL!
-Mark

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

I have a heat gun but no torch how long should I heat it up?

bigmark89

Uh, to be honest im not sure. Ive never heated up a nut that big with a heatgun before. Id say once you see the nut turn just cherry hot. You dont want the entire thing to turn into a glowing red nut of fire, lol, just until it turns slightly red.

But remember to keep the heat gun moving around the nut, dont keep it in one place and dont point it forward straight in the direction of the crankshaft. Keep it around the perimeter of the nut. AND MAKE SURE TO TAKE THE BELTS OFF FIRST!!!

-Mark

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

will a heat gun even be able to get the nut to a cherry red?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

No. A torch will though. You can get one for like $30 at Home Depot.

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

I dont like the idea of heating it. Heating it makes it soft and if you put that much pressure on a bolt there is a chance for it to break and I really am uncomfortable with this whole situation now i really dont want to screw something up that will cost me alot

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

It doesnt make it soft to the point that you'll break it. Just enough for it to expand then once you hit it with the wrench it will break free and come out.

If you don't like the torch method, then I'd say either take it to a shop where they have the impact wrench to do it, or try to starter method again. Theres really no way the starter method wont work, unless you have the wrench attached incorrectly.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

I plan on doing the starter method on monday when my buddy comes down with the tq wrench and breaker bar... I barely have any tools. But what access panel do I remove to jam the teeth so I can tq this puppy back on? metal one i'm assuming?

damn i wish there was a pic of it

bigmark89

Ive gotten nuts cherry hot with a heat gun before. I mean it depends on the heat gun cuz ive seen some that get up to 2000 degrees. The one I use gets up tp 1500 degrees, so it gets nuts cherry hot. Not as quickly as a propane torch will, cuz those get over 3000 degrees so it takes longer but it will work if its powerful enough
-Mark

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

I heated the bolt up until the plastic on the heat gun melted now my heat gun is ruined and it didn't get it cherry hot but it was very hot. Also I broke another extender. I might just have to take it to a shop. I am pretty sure im doing the starter method correct if someone wants to explain how to do the starter method in detail maybe with some pictures I will try again tomorrow.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Don't use an extension if you are using the starter method. Just put a deep well 19mm socket on a break bar and put the end on the ground towards the front of the car. Make sure the breaker bar is firmly set on the bolt and not flopping around. Blip the starter (mine took 3 blips) and you will hear a crack. Thats when the bolt loosens.

If you look at the tranny where it meets the engine, there is a metal plate. Thats the flywheel inspection plate. Unbolt that and jam a crow bar or something in there so it wont spin. Then tighten the bolt.

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

was yours rusted at all? did you put on any pb blaster or heat the bolt?

paulierand

I have a few questions for you guys. I'm a newbie so this project is advanced as hell... I also got the option pulley with gates belts and am trying to install this too.

i don't want to 1. blip the starter 2. lower the car with jack on the breakerbar thing 3. torch the nut
i'm also open to using an airgun on this but.... you hold the crank pulley with your hand and the airgun(1000lbs of torque i know...) will just unbolt it???

so i opted to go in the hold nut down with crank pulley removal tool and use breaker bar on it method. i'm wondering what other tools do i need? i started with very few tools, minimal rachet set thats it. now i have a breaker bar, 1 10" extender, deep socket set 18-22mm, 10-17mm open wrench set and an 18 inch cheater bar and home made crankpulley removal tool, 1 & 1/2" plumbing hex part with T shape and 10in pipe.

couldn't find the removal tool at my local shops (kragen, honda, sears) where i live (san francisco, bay area) so after some hunting, found a homemade one at : /forums/f74/how-i-got-my-crank-pulley-bolt-off-77283/
and the original guy who did it here: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/crankbolthextool.html

q 1: The hex shaped adapter i ended up getting at home depot fit perfectly into the hex shape of the crank pulley so i attached a T shaped pipe to that with a long pipe attached to that which is supported by a jack. Anyways, this holds the hex shape so it doesn't move. HOWEVER, the entire crank pulley still moves when i push on it with the breakerbar. The hex tool i made is holding the hex part and it isn't moving.
i managed to remove the ac belt but not the power steering belt. Is having the timing belt on causing the crank pulley to turn even though i'm holding it with my hex tool?

q 2: i can't find the nut that bigmark was referring to loosen the tension on the powersteering belt. I can't remove it. Which one is it and with which socket or wrench can you reach it with?

q 3: should i just mail order a powerbuilt honda crank pulley removal tool?

q4: before the side motor mounts are unbolted, the motor's oil pan must be supported on a jack with a piece of wood, correct?

q5: any local bay area folks got a crank pulley removal tool they could loan me?

car is up on jackstands now. i will decide to either proceed and finish somehow or put the whole thing back together tomorrow...
at this point i'm considering cutting my powersteering belt so i can remove it and maybe the crankpulley bolt will come off? I'd prefer to resolve q2 so i don't have to do this.

guys, any advice very greatly appreciated, thanks!

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

to get off or loosen the power steering belt there is an indentation in the motor cover right beside the pwr steering pump u'll see a 12mm bolt threaded like 15-20 threads down (that is the tensioner) you use a deep 12mm socket and back up the bolt and you should lose the tension and be able to get her off without doing anything else, without removing the engine cover as well.

You remove that portion of the motor mount right after to access the a/c / alt belt from the top. Make sure you watch yourself I hear the spring action on that tensioner can cause some serious hand pains if you aren't cautious, so make sure you are.

I'll be installing mine tomorrow with the impact now.. it's just so mouch less of a hassle (assuming it cracks off the bolt). I HOPE

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

I got a dewalt cord impact gun with 350ft/lbs of tq?

think that will cut the cheese? or am I gonna have to all out with a real impact with like 1000 tq?

paulierand

cls progression, i already loosened the nut you're talking about but tension is still on the ps belt.
i took the entire nut off. i'll try putting it back on and seeing if it adjusts anything.

in the TL DIY for timing belt replacement, they took the entire PS pump off and they did it undoing three bolts. i can't locate the third bolt hidden behind the PS pump.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

i used the special tool and worked for me. car had about 65k on my tl-s

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Theres bolts holding the ps pump on, loosen them up. Then push the pump down. You should lose tension.

I can go take some pictures of all the bolt locations for everyone, but since I already installed the pulley I cant do a full walkthrough.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Highly doubt the Dewalt will do anything. My Craftsmen impact with 650tq couldnt get it. You may have good luck with the 1000tq wrench.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

The first weekend that I tried doing it I used PB Blaster, heat, and had the special tool and it couldnt get it lose. Thats why the following weekend I did the starter method. My bolt wasnt really rusty, but it was definately stuck.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

tru I guess i'll either do the starter method or use my buddy's impact gun tomorrow... Should do the trick it's never not taken anything off lol.

Or else i'll do the starter method, but then re-torquing it is a bitch... I'm just gonna impact the shit out of it.. she'll do the job.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Ok, just took some pictures. Hope this helps somewhat.

First up, the PS Pump tensioner bolt:



The other two bolts holding the PS Pump to the motor are located here, if for some reason your PS pump wont release tension, just loosen these:



And



You need to remove this bracket to get the PS Pump belt out. It is for the mount, but it is not a load bearing mount. One 17mm bolt on the mount side and 2 14mm bolts on the bracket.



These are where the bolts are for the pulleys. The red is the bolt locations that you will be touching (minus the mount bracket bolts)



And for those of you using the starter blip method, have the breaker bar on the bolt and the end resting securely on the ground like this:



Then pulse the starter a few times. You will hear a crack like something broke. That just means you loosened it. Congrats.

If you feel more comfortable removing the fuel pump fuse, it should be located in spot #1 on the drivers side fuse box.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

good write-up bro.. I'm sure this will help many people (including myself assuming the pwr steering pump tensioner bolt does it's job)

I'm sure this will help many lads pondering how to get the job done.

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

nice job explaining things but this is exactly what I did and It didn't work tried again with 5' pole and that didn't work either I put my car back how it was and will probably end up paying someone.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

When you cranked it, what happened?

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

just stopped and didnt do anything

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

It wouldnt even crank over? Thats very odd. The starter should have no problem breaking the cp bolt loose. Is your car difficult to start on a regular basis?

bigmark89

Wow, dude your on a serious bad luck streak. If none of the methods, especially the starter method, explained in this thread worked for you then I seriously think your last option is a 3/4" air gun with about 1000 lb-ft of torque.

-Mark

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

nope starts every time pretty easy

2Fast4you

iTrader: (1)

I spent all weekend trying to get it off and nothing worked even got my friend who weights 200lbs put all his weight on the 5' breaker bar and all it did was bend the bar I probably tried the starter method 5 or 6 times

paulierand

2fast for you, i'm same as you. i tried and got stuck. will give it another go next week with 1000lb powered torque gun. i am determined to do this myself..

civicdrivr, thanks for the pics man. will try those next time i get to ps belt step.