I want to pick up an Unortodox Racing pully set which includes the crank. i have had the aem for 2 years and never any probs, but im still using the oem crank pulley. as far as changing the oem crank pulley does this seem right? i know many ppl say not to get it but they dont actually have the pulleys and those who do say they have no probs and they are worth it. $200 for 5-8hp would be a nice liitle gain for my 2.2. thanx.

this is off unorthodox's website

4) "Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"

People are getting the pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When motor failures occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.

 

You should be fine with this ,If you are running a heavy duty audio system you might have issues but only if you are running one of those immense audio systems.

Jens

 

Thanks, the the stuff on aems website kinda made me nervous. thats why i bought the aem pullies 2 piece set 2 years ago over the unorthodox 3 piece set.

 

The CL-S motor is a very good design. I have both the UR pulley set (all three) AND the Comptech Flywheel - that's a good 25lbs off the crankshaft with all supposedly external 'dampening' removed... no problems and the oil looks as good as new!

 

hey jens would your dealership install the pullies? it would prob be much faster for you than at a local shop. im pretty sure theres a nice honda tool for the job. plus i know its done right. i dont like to brong my helm manual to a shop and have them follow it. tq specs and such. i have a compressor but my impact wrench is shot. i might just go but a new one. should i bother doing it myself? i habe enough probs with my drop. ended up cutting the rear oems off and torching the bolts and bushings out.

 

hey any pf u running aem acces'ry pullies with a ur crank? since the aem underdrive more than ur acces'ry pullies i would think mixing aem with ur crank would be the best of both worlds.

 

Of course we can install it for you .Give us a call on Monday and we can get it taken care of .201-587-0029 ask tospeak with Peter Vandenberghe here he even works Saturday mornings from 8 to 12 .

Jens