I have a 2001 CL type S and it is confounding two mechanics I have had look at the car. There will be times, often enough to be a problem, where the car will not start. I cranks and seems almost about to turn over but won't. Replaced plugs, starter motor, battery, I have been told the injectors have been cleaned and inspected and that fuel pump is working. Anyone else experienced these type of issues with their CL-S and what solved it?

 

Moved to 2nd gen forum.

 

Three things required to start car
Air
Fuel
Spark

Sounds like they've checked 2 of 3
You sure the engine is breathing/getting air?

Ah found it. Search on "fuel pump relay"
Has yours been replaced?
I think that is your culprit.

 

The 2g TL side has the same issue,
Like NSXNEXT mentioned the fuel pump relay (Might have cracks in the soldering joints)
Questions:
Have you ever replaced the timing belt on the car? could of jumped a few teeth
Does it have the check engine light on ?
Does it smell like fuel around the car after trying to start it up?
Have you checked the main ground for the ECU on the thermostat housing ?

 

When you have these starting issues is it when the engine is warmed up, like after a drive to the store? or does it happen on a cold engine. Also when starting the car do you see the Green key flashing in your cluster?

 

Another vote for the fuel pump relay. Located under the steering wheel. Easy to replace.

 

The problem started to surface on very cold days, like single digit temperatures. Since then, the car has been moved to SC and it started again during the first polar blast (when temps when down to 25 deg F). It then became intermittent and it no longer seems temperature related. It still seems to occur once the car has been dormant for awhile.

Anyway, between a local shop and Acura dealer, this is what has been done:
Main Relay replaced
Ignition Switch Replaced
Starter replaced twice (first was by local shop who used non-OEM; note I had replaced starter back in June)
Battery positive cable replaced
New Plugs
Fuel injectors cleaned
Battery replaced (even though it was a new battery already)
Ignition coil pack

Still won't start. I asked about the fuel pump relay and they acknoweldged it was separate from the main relay and said it was fine- not too sure it was really checked out given all the work outlined above.

Please note that once the car starts, it runs great. I would think if the timing belt slipped a few teeth, it would run somewhat sluggish.

 

so you decided not to listen to our advice? Not saying you have to but looks like you just spent a fair penny without results. Replace the fuel pump relay next.

 

When the car in its not starting fit, I would see if u are getting fuel pressure. Then u could determine if its fuel or spark related.

I have no idea why u had to replace all those components when it got u no result. If u brought it to the dlr they would not charge u for the stuff u don't need, just the labor for finding the issue and any parts to remedy it.....at least they should.

That's the only time I actually use the dealer.

Anyways.. I would focus on the problem when the car is not starting. Check for spark first cause it's easier, then check the fuel pressure, it's likely fuel related tho. Fuel pump or relay would be my guess.

I really hope you didn't pay too much for all that stuff you put on ur car. Cause in all likelihood it's going to be a cheap fix.

 

The stealer is sucking you dry. Re-flow the solder on the 'PGM-FI relay' aka fuel pump relay. (I thought this was also referred to as the 'main relay,' but your stealer is calling something else the 'main relay'...?)

 

i would definitely go about getting some of that money back you dumped into all those unneeded parts.

on another note. i would keep that car for a long time now thats it's all brand new.

 

Regarding the fuel pump relay, I was told (by the Acura Dealer) that the main relay comes in a housing that also includes the fuel pump relay. He said they replaced the housing.

The problem they claim is that the timing belt (replaced by previous owner) was not installed properly. Specifically, they claim the idle tensioner was not tightened properly and began to loosen within the tap causing the belt to slip a couple of teeth (their explaination to me). They claim that it needs to be re-tapped but that would involve dropping the engine and expanding the tap just may bore into the engine block allowing coolant to release. A new block is requested. At this point, I am halting all their work and having it towed to somewhere where I can decide what to do.

In the process of moving the car to the other location, the engine started just fine. Of course, it may surface again but I find it odd that, once the car starts, it runs great.

 

I am seeing what you mean about the dealer. They refused to refund me all the parts (even the battery) as they are considered 'electrical'. I promptly told them I never accepted deliver or used these parts. Clearly, they were not the issue but my next step would be legal action.

 

When I contacted the first shop I went to, they told me that what the dealership was telling me was bull. They said there was nothing wrong with the tension or bolts on the timing belt- wow. They said they also checked the timing and it showed up fine. They wanted another crack at it and felt confident that, given enough time, they could figure out the problem. They won't charge me unless it gets fixed.

 

i really thought it would have been the relay. Do you have the bill from Acura? They replaced part 39400-S84-003?

 

fuel pressure regulator is the other thing that will cause the car not to start....

edit: BTW Main Relay and Fuel Pump Relay are not known for going bad on these cars....

 

there have been many fuel relay problems. I just searched and there were many threads all with the same symptoms and were resolved with a new relay.

 

I hate to break this to you but the main relay issue was solved before the 98 model year... comparatively speaking the newer cars do not have these issues like the old ones did... I used to re-solder them all day long for $30 a pop... beats paying $80 at the dealer

 

i've had RE-starting issues after a long drive. really odd. i have ~90 min commute each way...if i stop off and get groceries 3 locks from my house and try to restart 10 min later, it does the same thing OP said.

Starts fine after hour or longer parked

 

If the bad starting is happening when the car is already hot u likely have a fuel issue. The gas is likely turning to a vapor in the fuel lines and then is messing up the mixture and won't start.

I had this happen all the time on my ford probelm. Lol


Not sure what would make that happen aside from the fpr tho.

If the dlr is not giving u a break on all those parts.. Call ur credit company and have them cancel the payment or have them go after the dlr.

 

There was a TSB out for cars that would not start when hot and another for hard starting for the fuel pressure regulator, might want to have it tested

03-017 MAY 2006 Engine Controls - PCM/Fuel Pressure Regulator Update
01-001 JANUARY 2001 PCM/Fuel Pressure Regulator - Hard Starting

 

I am trying to seek redress with the credit card company for the undressing given to me by the Acura Dealer. The first mechanic shop- after inspecting the timing belt thoroughly- have said there is nothing wrong and it is not slipping. I have asked for them to put that in writing.


Once I get the car back (currently in another state), I will simply have the fuel pressure regulator replaced. If it is easy enough, I will do it myself. If someone has a good link on how to replace it for a 2001 CL-S, please post reply. Thank you all for your contributions.

 

this might help a little. It's the instructions for installing the supercharger, but there's a section on the FPR. Looks like you'd just relieve the pressure, then bolt off/on. Good luck. http://www.sportcompactonly.com/manu...ech/ins104.pdf
You be able to find the factory service manual online somewhere.

 

posted this in another thread regarding this too, but my culprit is the one spot you can see on this...car shut down on the freeway going about 50...luckily i was already on the offramp. stopped and chilled for 15 minutes and got home fine. drove a hour to work today fine. soldered on my lunch break.

Kind of important...it was warm yesterday so narrowed it down to the FPR.

 

here's the pic