I finally got it installed this weekend and just got back from a quick test run. I haven't really gotten on it as I wanted to be sure everything was going to stay sealed and no problems were going to crop up. But I jab the throttle a couple of time and it felt good. It is about 70F right now and it felt similar to when it was below freezing. I'm going to add back in some timing for the testing this week.

Boost is right where it was at before; about 6 PSI max. So now I know where I can go to with the new pulley which will be ordered this week.

I forgot to take pictures with the bumper off to show the heat exchanger and the pump. I wired in a relay for the pump so I can turn it off if I need. But right now it runs on with the ignition. The pump is located on the passenger side corner; opposite of where the intake horn is. The heat exchanger is in front of the radiator.

But it is certainly doing its job. After driving I got back, opened the hood and grabbed the SC outlet pipe and it was too hot to hold. I put my hand on the manifold and it was cool to the touch. The water was probably about 90F at that time.

As you can see I have a make shift reservoir which will be replaced by an aluminum unit soon. But I need something cheap to test with.

The thing is sealing great, no vacuum leaks at all. I measured 21 inHG vacuum once it was warmed up. But I did have a problem. I busted the SC bypass valve and can't get it to work again. That will have to be replaced.

Pictures are below and I will update the post later this week.

 

looks killer!

 

good to see it working

 

Can't wait for this to go into production .

 

I am very impressed.

 

how does that fit under the hood

 

Scalbert, you are one sick dude! keep up the good work!!!!!!!

 

Easily...

Remember, it replaces the stock upper intake manifold. It is about 3/4 inch taller.

 

oh i see

 

Time for a cowl hood!

 

looks great steve! cant wait for the dyno.

 

very nice...keep up the good work..

 

Wow! That looks pretty good Steve.... you should be able to reduce most of the timing retard you have programmed in - what are the values you have right now?

 

 

steve, you make me proud to be a cl owner.

 

all motor, r u gonna use this too

 

if you read allmotors post you would know they are using an FMIC.

 

Lookin less and less like a CL engine compartment.

Awesome job. :thumsbup:

 

Scalbert, I only have one question for you.

Are you making any money from all this knowledge you've acquired modding you car and hard work put into it, or are you like me? Do the work cos it's fun and it feels good.

 

Actually I lied. I have one more q. You said, the upper intake manifold is replaced. How is that affecting anything? Is the tumble and swirl, or any other intake characteristics affected? I know (and I am sure you know better) that manifold design is a science and a lot of thought is put into it by engine designers.

 

Looks awesome steve - can't wait to see it at the Meet on Saturday

 

I found myself wondering exactly how the engine bay looked before the mods, so here's a pic:



Looks great Scalbert

 

THAT IS AWESOME SCALBERT

 

I already pulled out the retard. We'll see how it goes tomorrow morning when it is supposed to be in the low 30's F.

 

For fun.

But if I make more of these I will have to keep a little for the time involved.

 

Nice you plan on dynoing it or tracking it any time soon.

 

The lower manifold or rather, the injector base remains the same so any port flow aspects should be the same.

I agree, intake manifold design is critical, but mainly for normally aspirated applications. When boost is applied the rules change and become easier. I went with Corky Bell's suggestions on using a plenum about the same size as the engines displacement. I also went with a short runner configuration since a roots style blower is being used. This allows for better top end power production while the blower forcing in boost helps the lower revs.

In all, this concept was done after consulting several sources in intake manifold design when related to forced induction. They all said the same thing and is what I tried to follow.

 

Yes, I'll be at the dyno before the end of the month. I'll also head to Atlanta Dragway sometime soon.

 

Hopefully I can have the new pulley on by then and have things cleaned up. But knowing my schedule this week it will probably be where it is at today.

See ya Saturday.

 

i'm proud 2 be part of this forum board when I see such amazing feats


very nice!

 

Great Job scalbert!!! It looks amazing!!!

So I guess you know a little more about cars than most people, huh?.

 

Can't wait to read the results . . .

Ruf

 

Nice Job Steve!!!

The wideband is boxwed and ready. Do you still want to use it?

 

r u gonna run the hbp steve, or the mbp

 

Wow, great job.

But I have a few questions because I have a S/C as well:

1) How much does this intercooler weigh?

2) Could you have gone with 1/2 the wall thickness on the aluminum box?

3) I know this is a prototype, but couldn't it be made more compact without compromising anything?

 

Wow! simply amazing. I hope there is more to come.

 

Yes please...

I also need to get the e-Manage back to you.

 

I'll be going to a different SC pulley now. This should up the boost to the 8 PSI range.

 

1) The IC weighs less than the stock upper manifold. But I would guess that with all other supporting items the total weight is about the same.

2) I could have gone with 1/2" walls but that would really be overkill. The 1/4" plate is thicker than stock and stout as can be. The owner of the machine shop questioned why I didn't go with 3/16 or even 1/8 plate as he thought the 1/4 was too much.

1/4 aluminum plate is extremely strong and when all was welded up you could drive over it without damage to the unit.

3) Any additional units will be more compact. But there is a limit on how small it can be. Too small and the efficiency is so low that it provides little benefit or is even a hindrance.

We are flowing about 450 CFM and need a little overage in this design for more boost and general efficiencies. The unit I am using is rated for about 750 CFM which is an over kill. I'm trying to source a unit which is the same depth and width but one inch less in height. This should allow for up to 600 CFM while giving stock hood clearance.

 

Good new, I was able to fix the bypass valve. I just used super glue to get the nipple back on. I then used JB Weld to hold it on permanently. This is now probably stronger than it was previously.

I will still probably swap it out but this should suffice for the time being.