I am just about finished. I need to make a few small changes to it but it is mostly complete. Feel free to download it and look it over. I know some wanted to get a head start on the installation planning.

BTW, it is in Word format for now.

Intercooler Installation Manual

 

Sweet... i'll be checking it out shortly


Edit: You might want to .pdf the file for security.

 

Yea, PDF it.

Looks great Steve!

 

Ya, I'll convert to PDF when done.

 

Thanks Steve, thats exactly what I need and others who plan to get IC+e-Manage kits

 

is this the hold up?...

you typing instead of shipping....?....

 

Naw, talk to US Customs about the hold up. They wanted my Fed Id number, SS# and I wasn't going to be surprised if they asked for my daughters.

I talked to the Fed Ex guy, who was dealing with customs, about a week ago and he said everything should be in order. I guess customs is suspicious about packages coming from Canada.

 

hmmm.. what exactly is coming from Canada?

p.s. those install instructions sure do have me looking for leaks enough times..

 

Just the basic parts of the harness. At least I hope that is all...

Yep, no reason to button everything up only to find a leak later.

 

if anything fails you know I am going to blame those canadian parts...

 

But I think they originally come from Japan.

 

Damn I needed that! I have 310cc injectors,What do you think I need to set the fuel pressure at? Did you remember to set retard on my emanage? If I haven't seen your cooler hose instruction, I would have install the water pump between the tank and the front heat exchanger. Don't you think if water flow throught the heat exchanger first, then up to the intercooler the water will be cooler?I would think if the pump is running for a long time the pump will get hot too? but that just me. Oh, I am still waiting for a custom tank that is going to take the place of the washer fluid bottle. I hope it works, I just can't have that tank in the trunk. I live in my car so everything is in it.

 

I would runt he same pressure but the fuel can be backed down some if needed. You are running more displacement so it may be just fine.

Concerning the circulation path, the idea is that you can add ice and that would go straight to the IC. If it went through the heat exchangers first it would warm the water. Plus, coming from the reservoir first allows the imediate cool down through the heat exchangers first before being buffered in the reservoir.

 

I highly doubt I will ever add ICE.... the idea of using the window washer tank is a GREAT IDEA... I think I used the washer fluid once since I owned the car...but would the tank need to be customized for?..

 

You would need 5/8 inch hose ports on it.

 

question is... would it work properly?

 

Hey Steve, do you think the s/c would swap over to the new RL?

 

I don't see why not. The volume would certainly be limited lending its self to heat soak quicker. But it could work.

 

Yes, but with how much modification I dunno.

 

Most of the cars today that are intercooled are air to air.. but if there were to make a liquid to air they would have to mount the tank outside the car or under it somewhere... Have you ever thought of placing the tank somewhere else besides the trunk?

 

There are some factory cars which use the Eaton blower (or similar) and have a liquid/air system. Such as the Cobra, Lightning, R-Series Jags with the blown engne and even Mercedes. My old Typhoon also had a factory liquid/air IC (as did the Syclone).

Those system actually do not use a reservoir. The coolant just circulates from the charge air cooler (IC) to the heat exchangers and back. However, they all experience heat soak. The only reason for the larger reservoir was for consistancy, not optimal power. It also provided a means to increase the IC efficiency by adding ise.

With that said, there is no absolute need for a large trunk mounted reservoir. When properly cooled down both systems would dyno about the same. The difference would appear when the cars are run over and over. There could also be a measured difference when stuck in traffic as the larger reservoir has a better thermal inertia.

 

Thank you, you verfied what I was thinking in the first place....

How hot (temp) is the air being charged for the supercharger?

The Intercooler brings the charge temp down 20+ degrees?.. correct?

 

Nice manual Steve, even though you took care of mine it will be a nice reference.

 

At WOT and approaching redline, the temperature increase is above 150F; probably about 180F. That means on a 80 degree day the blower discharge temps are over 250 F.

During the test I have run the lowest efficiency I saw was 75%. 75% heat removal of 180 F is a final temp of 45F over ambient; 125F final temp. In other words, 135F was removed from the air.

This is why when I installed the IC without tuning the E-Manage I went lean imediately

To put it another way, the air entering the engine was cooler with the IC on a 90 degree day than it was without the IC on a 20 degree day.

 

Have you hooked up the laptop yet?? Also, when are the injectors scheduled to be installed??

 

As for the lap top not yet....You'll have to coach me through it when I do.
It was running great, especially compared to what we had before, after S.D. hooked up all the monitoring equipment and tuned it. At 5lbs. of boost the car was very impressive and pulled strong (I limited my driving to 5 lbs. because it would go lean after 7 so there was a 2lbs. cushion) The injectors might be in by tomorrow or Monday. The bad news is that my car died on the road last week: bad battery and possibly bad alternator.
Along with the injectors I've also ordered SSR Comp with Eagle GS D3s for the car. I'm hoping that all this(injectors, wheels ,battery, possibly new alternator and dyno tune) can be in place for next weekends - Dec.5 "Battle of the Imports". The car could potentially surprise some folk. This is a tall order but we'll see.

What are your thoughts on running dry ice in the reservoir especially for competition?

 

SCTL-SS, do you have a web address and part #'s for the injectors?

 

I can't say for sure. It would probably be better to isolate the water and dry ice so as not to carbonate the water. I would think it would be better to vent the CO2 gases rather than have them in the system.

However, it may be just fine with the gases venting out of the vent port. You may have your trunk looking like a haunted house though.

 

I beleive they are running 310cc RC Eng units. But they are going to need to moddify the fuel rail; grind on it some, along with add different connectors.

Once that is done the tuning possibilities are nearly endless. In fact, you could possibly add two additional large injectors and do away with the rising rate regulator.

 

What size injectors would be a good choice if I just add 2 injectors? The E-Manage would control these two injectors right? Where would be the best place to mount the injectors for the best fuel distribution? I was thinking that the removable front cover on the IC would be a good location.

 

If you run two additional injectors you could run pretty large ones. Probably in the 750cc range. Since these would only be used under boost the stock injectors could work the majority of the time and like stock.

Using the stock FPR and two 750cc squirters, you could potentially support about 550 crank HP. Actually this could be stretched to over 600 when pressing the stock units a little harder.

And yes, the E-Manage can control the additional injectors just fine. That is where two of the extra leads on the harness are for.

And yes, the front cover plate is where I always thought extra injectors would reside. That is actually a very good place as it is very close to the factory units.

 

HHMMmm..., awesome !!! This sounds like it would be alot of fun.

 

Car just towed today for the entire install starting next Monday.
Steve, heat exchangers were primed and painted black (body shop) with specific heat paint and they look awesome (will post pics soon).

Good instructions!!!!! But my steps would be in different order
1. FPR cal kit
2. Heat Exch./Reservoir/Pump/
3. Engine installation
4. IC
5. Blower and SC pulley
6. e-Manage install then ESM removal



Can't wait.

Also, I've got a nice used laptop (ebay) so when I hook up wideband AFR software (Zeitronix, etc) it would be cool for street testing before 1000mi break-in.

 

The reason for that order is that the car can be driven with just the E-Manage, not the other way around.

 

Install engine? Don't forget to take some pics .

 

Here is the web address for the injectors RCENG.com or you can contact Jason at S.D. for them. They ordered 440s for my car, at least that's what was recommended, they were the same price as the 370s. As for adding injectors I was told it would be better to change the stock units because the upgraded ones would be right at the port and each cylinder would receive identical amount of fuel. In that case nothing would be really left to chance and no "puddling" of the fuel.

 

These RC injectors, will the fuel rail require any modifications for them to fit?

 

Take out your Dremmel.

 

That should do it, as to the exact amount we'll just have to try and see.

 

First, take out the credit card