Insurance, body shop, and repair gurus: PLEASE READ
#1
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Insurance, body shop, and repair gurus: PLEASE READ
Hey everyone, I’m a second-generation TL forum member but I’m trying to get as many opinions as possible; thus, I am posting in all of the forums. My situation is this: I was rear-ended (luckily I escaped with only minor injuries) and now I have an estimate. I’m not pressing charges or filing for medical help as my injuries are easily remedied with time and some simple care. The other driver was very apologetic and classy, and I don’t want them to pay any more than is necessary. I’m providing pictures of my car and a summation of the offenders insurance agents appraisal of what needs to be replaced and how much it will cost. Her insurance company is AIG. What I would like to know is did I get a fair estimate? Can you think of anything I could request to get replaced along with what is already written? And if you’re from my area (Baton Rouge and New Orleans), would you please suggest a quality, thorough, and professional shop? Obviously, being a car enthusiast, I want the job done correctly and for my car to be restored back to the way she was. All opinions, questions, thoughts, and ideas are welcome. Just please don’t clutter the thread with posts only saying “wow that sucks” and offering no insight. I’m not trying to be rude; but I have a lot on my plate now besides my car issues; so, assistance in this matter, without the clutter, is very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
P.S. I would like an all-new paint job, as the batch they repaint the rear with will of course be SLIGHTLY different to the batch used on the front. In other words, even though I hope to get the car painted at a reputable shop, I did not buy a two-tone car to begin with, so I don’t want to end up with one. Others may not notice, but I will and it will drive me nuts. I know the difference will be negligible but I want the car fixed perfectly. I’ll admit I’m a car novice (compared to some of the heavy weights on here), but these are just my casual observations and concerns; please show some patience with me as I learn.
- Repair/refinish RIGHT quarter panel: No amount specified
- Repair/refinish LEFT quarter panel: No amount specified
- ***She said it is a mess to replace them, and it is better to “pull” them out? I’m skeptical, but again uninformed.
- Remove/replace/refinish luggage lid panel: $545.35
- Remove/replace/refinish luggage lid hinges R and L: $80.75
- Remove/replace luggage lid latch: $85.20
- Remove/replace luggage lid emblem: $17.23
- Remove/replace luggage lid nameplate: $46.00
- Clean and deodorize interior: $75.00
- ***I had groceries and the milk I just bought exploded in my trunk and the smell has permeated throughout the car.
- Remove/replace/refinish rear body panel: $231.93
- Rear body floor pan: $500.00
- Anti corrosion materials: $8.00
- Remove/replace taillights: $367.66
- Remove/replace/refinish rear bumper cover: $212.00
- Remove/replace rear bumper impact cushions: $66.86
- Remove/replace rear bumper face bar: $159.96
- Detail/Clean up: $10.00
- Paint/Materials: 382.50
- Hazardous waste disposal: $3.00
SUMMARY:
Total labor: $3,037.29
Total replacement parts: $2,537.91
Additional costs: $431.10
TOTAL: $6,006.30
rear #1
Side #1
Side #2
deck lid #1
taillight
side fender
deck lid #2
deck lid #3
deck lid #4
trunk
underbody floor and exhaust
sticker
DEAD
P.S. I would like an all-new paint job, as the batch they repaint the rear with will of course be SLIGHTLY different to the batch used on the front. In other words, even though I hope to get the car painted at a reputable shop, I did not buy a two-tone car to begin with, so I don’t want to end up with one. Others may not notice, but I will and it will drive me nuts. I know the difference will be negligible but I want the car fixed perfectly. I’ll admit I’m a car novice (compared to some of the heavy weights on here), but these are just my casual observations and concerns; please show some patience with me as I learn.
- Repair/refinish RIGHT quarter panel: No amount specified
- Repair/refinish LEFT quarter panel: No amount specified
- ***She said it is a mess to replace them, and it is better to “pull” them out? I’m skeptical, but again uninformed.
- Remove/replace/refinish luggage lid panel: $545.35
- Remove/replace/refinish luggage lid hinges R and L: $80.75
- Remove/replace luggage lid latch: $85.20
- Remove/replace luggage lid emblem: $17.23
- Remove/replace luggage lid nameplate: $46.00
- Clean and deodorize interior: $75.00
- ***I had groceries and the milk I just bought exploded in my trunk and the smell has permeated throughout the car.
- Remove/replace/refinish rear body panel: $231.93
- Rear body floor pan: $500.00
- Anti corrosion materials: $8.00
- Remove/replace taillights: $367.66
- Remove/replace/refinish rear bumper cover: $212.00
- Remove/replace rear bumper impact cushions: $66.86
- Remove/replace rear bumper face bar: $159.96
- Detail/Clean up: $10.00
- Paint/Materials: 382.50
- Hazardous waste disposal: $3.00
SUMMARY:
Total labor: $3,037.29
Total replacement parts: $2,537.91
Additional costs: $431.10
TOTAL: $6,006.30
rear #1
Side #1
Side #2
deck lid #1
taillight
side fender
deck lid #2
deck lid #3
deck lid #4
trunk
underbody floor and exhaust
sticker
DEAD
#2
Team Owner
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That sounds about right. When I got rear-ended, the damage done to my car was not as bad, and it cost more than $5K.
They don't usually replace rear quarter panels when you get rear-ended, they pull them out. To replace them you have to cut them out and re-weld new ones on, and NO one does that.
As for getting your entire car re-painted, you will have to make a deal with the body shop. I did that. It cost an extra $500 and he painted the entire car. It really depends on the shop.
Did you take it to a shop recommended by the insurance company, or someone else? I was told that if you take it to a shop that is not directly connected to the insurance company, then it may take a couple days more to get the adjuster to evaluate your car, but it's more likely that the shop will work with you to get the rest painted. This is because, a private place will have no issues with factoring most of the additional costs into some of the work that they are billing the insurance company for and the one associated with the insurance company may not be as flexible.
They don't usually replace rear quarter panels when you get rear-ended, they pull them out. To replace them you have to cut them out and re-weld new ones on, and NO one does that.
As for getting your entire car re-painted, you will have to make a deal with the body shop. I did that. It cost an extra $500 and he painted the entire car. It really depends on the shop.
Did you take it to a shop recommended by the insurance company, or someone else? I was told that if you take it to a shop that is not directly connected to the insurance company, then it may take a couple days more to get the adjuster to evaluate your car, but it's more likely that the shop will work with you to get the rest painted. This is because, a private place will have no issues with factoring most of the additional costs into some of the work that they are billing the insurance company for and the one associated with the insurance company may not be as flexible.
#3
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Originally Posted by RaviNJCLs
That sounds about right. When I got rear-ended, the damage done to my car was not as bad, and it cost more than $5K.
Originally Posted by RaviNJCLs
As for getting your entire car re-painted, you will have to make a deal with the body shop. I did that. It cost an extra $500 and he painted the entire car. It really depends on the shop.
Did you take it to a shop recommended by the insurance company, or someone else? I was told that if you take it to a shop that is not directly connected to the insurance company, then it may take a couple days more to get the adjuster to evaluate your car, but it's more likely that the shop will work with you to get the rest painted. This is because, a private place will have no issues with factoring most of the additional costs into some of the work that they are billing the insurance company for and the one associated with the insurance company may not be as flexible.
Did you take it to a shop recommended by the insurance company, or someone else? I was told that if you take it to a shop that is not directly connected to the insurance company, then it may take a couple days more to get the adjuster to evaluate your car, but it's more likely that the shop will work with you to get the rest painted. This is because, a private place will have no issues with factoring most of the additional costs into some of the work that they are billing the insurance company for and the one associated with the insurance company may not be as flexible.
#4
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Check the sunroof and make sure it is still aligned correctly. Lots of times, hits like that can slightly un-align the sunroof and it will leak in a car wash or when it rains hard. ALso, on pic "deck lid #2", left side of pic, the spacing where the door closes looks a little wide, is that normal?
#5
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Originally Posted by Chr8808
Check the sunroof and make sure it is still aligned correctly. Lots of times, hits like that can slightly un-align the sunroof and it will leak in a car wash or when it rains hard. ALso, on pic "deck lid #2", left side of pic, the spacing where the door closes looks a little wide, is that normal?
I'll look into that. Good observation.
#6
Suzuka Master
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don't be surprised if you get a call mid repair saying they found more things wrong. MOST shops tend to overestimate just in case, but with a job like this i can almost guarantee they find something else wrong.
also like ravi mentioned, i would go to your own body shop, if you have one. i personally use someone for all my repairs. you just give them your car and most shops will work directly with the company. but if you don't have anyone you trust, i would go to an acura shop since they will probably do a better job install parts.
as for getting the whole thing repainted... no better time. go for it!
oh and its good to hear you are injury free. i got rear ended once, VERY little damage, but i was fine that day. few days later my back went out. either it was bad timing or it was from the accident.
also like ravi mentioned, i would go to your own body shop, if you have one. i personally use someone for all my repairs. you just give them your car and most shops will work directly with the company. but if you don't have anyone you trust, i would go to an acura shop since they will probably do a better job install parts.
as for getting the whole thing repainted... no better time. go for it!
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
oh and its good to hear you are injury free. i got rear ended once, VERY little damage, but i was fine that day. few days later my back went out. either it was bad timing or it was from the accident.
#7
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Originally Posted by CleanCL
don't be surprised if you get a call mid repair saying they found more things wrong. MOST shops tend to overestimate just in case, but with a job like this i can almost guarantee they find something else wrong.
If you don't have a personal shop, just post where you live and maybe one of the local members can give you some help on where to go.
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#8
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Originally Posted by CleanCL
don't be surprised if you get a call mid repair saying they found more things wrong. MOST shops tend to overestimate just in case, but with a job like this i can almost guarantee they find something else wrong.
also like ravi mentioned, i would go to your own body shop, if you have one. i personally use someone for all my repairs. you just give them your car and most shops will work directly with the company. but if you don't have anyone you trust, i would go to an acura shop since they will probably do a better job install parts.
as for getting the whole thing repainted... no better time. go for it!
oh and its good to hear you are injury free. i got rear ended once, VERY little damage, but i was fine that day. few days later my back went out. either it was bad timing or it was from the accident.
also like ravi mentioned, i would go to your own body shop, if you have one. i personally use someone for all my repairs. you just give them your car and most shops will work directly with the company. but if you don't have anyone you trust, i would go to an acura shop since they will probably do a better job install parts.
as for getting the whole thing repainted... no better time. go for it!
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
oh and its good to hear you are injury free. i got rear ended once, VERY little damage, but i was fine that day. few days later my back went out. either it was bad timing or it was from the accident.
#9
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Originally Posted by RaviNJCLs
Yeh, that happened to mine as well. But the shop took care of it all. They even got me back about $200 more for one of my wheels because they said it was bent in the accident. He also "broke" my tail lights when he was removing them so I can get 03 ones instead of the all red 01's.
If you don't have a personal shop, just post where you live and maybe one of the local members can give you some help on where to go.
If you don't have a personal shop, just post where you live and maybe one of the local members can give you some help on where to go.
That is awesome how the shop was on your side and helped you where they could. That is why I don't want my work done at Acura, so maybe they will make me a deal on a few things. I'll still get an estime from them though. You think that is a good plan?
P.S. I said in the thread where I live (Baton Rouge and New Orleans). The apraiser said she was familar with most of the shops in the Baton Rouge; I may take it home to New Orleans.
#10
They will replace the quarter panel if it damage beyond a certain percent..It will vary between compaines. But a good rule of thumb is 50%. Or if the repair time exceeds putting in a new quarter panel. Me personally if my car was looking like that I would rather have a new quarter panel bondo is only going to get real messy. Don't get confused though..the new quarter panel will have bondo but most likely a less amount. And sorry to tell you but they will not respray the whole car. They will just blend the rear of the car to match the front. But you can always find a cool shop who can paint the front with no extra or a couple hundred more...
#12
Drifting
try and get all oem parts too. most aftermarket parts just aren't the same quality. and try your best to get the whole car repainted. even if they do a good blend job, the parts of the car that was repaired will look better than the rest. i had most of my front end reapaired. afterwards i was kicking myself because the repaired sections looked so much better than the unrepaired parts. now i have a hood with rock chips, but two perfect fenders and a perfect beumper with one perfect headlight housing.
#13
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Originally Posted by o1s
try and get all oem parts too. most aftermarket parts just aren't the same quality. and try your best to get the whole car repainted. even if they do a good blend job, the parts of the car that was repaired will look better than the rest. i had most of my front end reapaired. afterwards i was kicking myself because the repaired sections looked so much better than the unrepaired parts. now i have a hood with rock chips, but two perfect fenders and a perfect beumper with one perfect headlight housing.
I know what you mean, I was thinking of that. I just don't think insurance companies care about OCD people or enthusiasts.
#14
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Originally Posted by TLsu
I know what you mean, I was thinking of that. I just don't think insurance companies care about OCD people or enthusiasts.
#15
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Do I show the other body shops the estimate given to me by AIG at any point when I take my car to their places for them to give me their estimate? Also, do I let them know it is someone else paying for it(their insurance), or do I initially make them think I'm paying for it?
She (the AIG appraiser) accidentally bragged on herself and mentioned how she knows all of the people at the body shops in Baton Rouge; I'm now hesitant to get the car fixed here and am leaning to New Orleans. I'm afraid some shops here may have some loyalty towards her? Or is this unlikely? I want to go to New Orleans where they would be more probable to be flexible with me and make me a deal on a paint job (ex. they will paint the entire car for me for considerably less if I just pay them a bit more out of pocket on top of what their insurance pays).
She (the AIG appraiser) accidentally bragged on herself and mentioned how she knows all of the people at the body shops in Baton Rouge; I'm now hesitant to get the car fixed here and am leaning to New Orleans. I'm afraid some shops here may have some loyalty towards her? Or is this unlikely? I want to go to New Orleans where they would be more probable to be flexible with me and make me a deal on a paint job (ex. they will paint the entire car for me for considerably less if I just pay them a bit more out of pocket on top of what their insurance pays).
#16
Suzuka Master
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Just shop around. My body shop does some 'bargaining' with my insurance company. Most appraisers do not mind, but some are very strict. Just shop around to find a shop who appears they will try to work for you. Remember, the body shop wants to fix as much as they can because that means more money. And the fact that your going through insurance is even better because they can push whatever they want and not be held back by you. The only one holding them back is the appraiser. And the appraiser works for a company with unlimited spending, basically.
#17
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Originally Posted by CleanCL
Just shop around. My body shop does some 'bargaining' with my insurance company. Most appraisers do not mind, but some are very strict. Just shop around to find a shop who appears they will try to work for you. Remember, the body shop wants to fix as much as they can because that means more money. And the fact that your going through insurance is even better because they can push whatever they want and not be held back by you. The only one holding them back is the appraiser. And the appraiser works for a company with unlimited spending, basically.
Very true. I just need to find a shop that sees it this way and will want to "work for me"
#18
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My
is to provide the body shop with images of the rear badging (if you want to keep it) my body shop was more familiar with toyotas and decided to put the badging on wherever. See my post
https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/o-t-z3-now-available-w-315-hp-175540/
Also make sure they use new parts - there seems to be a trend to using recycled parts, my body shop refused the trunk lid as not good enough but you never know who is inspecting these things.
![2 Cents](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/2cents.gif)
https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/o-t-z3-now-available-w-315-hp-175540/
Also make sure they use new parts - there seems to be a trend to using recycled parts, my body shop refused the trunk lid as not good enough but you never know who is inspecting these things.
#19
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by o1s
try and get all oem parts too. most aftermarket parts just aren't the same quality. and try your best to get the whole car repainted. even if they do a good blend job, the parts of the car that was repaired will look better than the rest. i had most of my front end reapaired. afterwards i was kicking myself because the repaired sections looked so much better than the unrepaired parts. now i have a hood with rock chips, but two perfect fenders and a perfect beumper with one perfect headlight housing.
#21
I work for a different insurance company than AIG but to me that est looks low to me. I am an auto insurance adjuster. First and foremost thing that comes to my mind are the rails. both right and left. Also structural realignment. You are gonna need some sort of decent amount of pull. normally 2 to set up and measure, and then just from your pics I would say maybe 4-6 hours of pull. I agree with the shop on the quarters as if you think which would you rather have done to your cars quarter panels. have a hack saw cut into the unibody to section out each quarter panel then have 2 new ones welded in along the second or have the current ones pulled out, reinforced and fixed(while still keeping the original structual integrity of the vehicle? Quarters are not like fenders with bolt on parts etc.
Also with OEM/AM parts I am a firm believer that AM in most cases can be equal if not better than oem. As long as they are CAPPA certified you shoudl be fine.. If they are replacing the taillights make sure the new ones are oem or CAPPA. Just from seeing that damage I would guess closer to 8k but until I look at a car in person it is very difficult to get an accurate readout. If you think about it even cars brand new from dealer have am parts(radiator, tires etc) If you want oem parts by all means argue for it but I wouldn't want to pay double the price for somethign that was not garunteed and was the same specs.(all a/m are lifetime garunteed if CAPPA certified). It is like buying peas at the store. a can of green giant or a can of Kroger. I know you can make an example for the other case too but I spend tens of thousandas of dollars of my companies money on a/m parts to do proper vehicle repairs and only a few times have I had fitment inssues. The times I did the provider gave a fullr efund and paid for an oem part while still charging us their a/m price.
I hope this helps.
Also with OEM/AM parts I am a firm believer that AM in most cases can be equal if not better than oem. As long as they are CAPPA certified you shoudl be fine.. If they are replacing the taillights make sure the new ones are oem or CAPPA. Just from seeing that damage I would guess closer to 8k but until I look at a car in person it is very difficult to get an accurate readout. If you think about it even cars brand new from dealer have am parts(radiator, tires etc) If you want oem parts by all means argue for it but I wouldn't want to pay double the price for somethign that was not garunteed and was the same specs.(all a/m are lifetime garunteed if CAPPA certified). It is like buying peas at the store. a can of green giant or a can of Kroger. I know you can make an example for the other case too but I spend tens of thousandas of dollars of my companies money on a/m parts to do proper vehicle repairs and only a few times have I had fitment inssues. The times I did the provider gave a fullr efund and paid for an oem part while still charging us their a/m price.
I hope this helps.
#22
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^^^ thanks for the information. I appreciate your time. I'm more confident with the process and things are moving much smoother with all the information you guys have given me.
#23
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The shop should have a form to do all this work for you.
First, go to the shop and have them write up an estimate and give you a form.
The form entails that both parties sign and agree that the party at fault will pay for damages to the car after it is completly finished, so if the price turns out to be more,still, the party at fault agreed to cover the cost. You also have to sign the form, stating that once the shop says," your car finished and the party has paid your bill". you have to come down and pick your car up. IF you go down and pick up your car, and its not fixed in"good quality", you now have to go after the shop, which is feasible. Because the party at fault has already completed their agreement.
Also, if anything goes wrong in the future the shop is now responisble because they have already been paid.
Now, if your car is finished being fixed, and the party at fault doesnt go and pay for the car damages, then you would report the bill to their inusrance company.
Also, make sure that the shop adds in the rental car fee to the estimate.
Most shops have this form.
Friend just did this. Worked out just fine.
Its a big pain in the ass but thats why people usually go through insurance.
First, go to the shop and have them write up an estimate and give you a form.
The form entails that both parties sign and agree that the party at fault will pay for damages to the car after it is completly finished, so if the price turns out to be more,still, the party at fault agreed to cover the cost. You also have to sign the form, stating that once the shop says," your car finished and the party has paid your bill". you have to come down and pick your car up. IF you go down and pick up your car, and its not fixed in"good quality", you now have to go after the shop, which is feasible. Because the party at fault has already completed their agreement.
Also, if anything goes wrong in the future the shop is now responisble because they have already been paid.
Now, if your car is finished being fixed, and the party at fault doesnt go and pay for the car damages, then you would report the bill to their inusrance company.
Also, make sure that the shop adds in the rental car fee to the estimate.
Most shops have this form.
Friend just did this. Worked out just fine.
Its a big pain in the ass but thats why people usually go through insurance.
#24
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I also work for an insurance company and agree with what supernova said.
I would rather rely on an insurance company than a form if the other carrier has already accepted liablilty. They are responsible for repairing you vehcile to pre-loss condition. Any aditional damages that they might find along with the rental vehicle would also be covered. Most shops do guarantee their work and if you go to one of their shop there is probably some sort of guarantee with that.
I would rather rely on an insurance company than a form if the other carrier has already accepted liablilty. They are responsible for repairing you vehcile to pre-loss condition. Any aditional damages that they might find along with the rental vehicle would also be covered. Most shops do guarantee their work and if you go to one of their shop there is probably some sort of guarantee with that.
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