Installing brakes
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CL-S retired 10.17.06
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Installing brakes
Does anyone have detailed instructions for installing brakes? I just got my brembo rotors in and waiting for my pads. Headers will be in tomorrow. It's just the brakes I'm not too sure of. I've never done them before but I am mechanically inclined and shoudn;t be too hard to figure out as long as I have instructions. What tools will I need? Any help appreciated.
-john
-john
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John, I am not an auto mechanic, just real mechanical inclined, so I might be off from a pro. I have never read a manual on how to change brakes either. I have never had any problems so far and have done a few brake changes on Hondas…
If your keeping the same calipers…
Jack the car. Note: be safe when jacking…
Turn the key to the on position and push the brake pedal several times until you do not feel any pressure on it.
Note: make sure the car is on level ground and opposite wheel is chocked.
Remove the wheel and tire assy.
Unbolt the brake line clamp from the frame of the car. (11mm I think)
Unbolt the caliper from around the rotor. (again 11mm I think)
Use lockwire or string to hold the caliper with the piston on it out of the way but not with the brake line supporting the weight.
Unbolt the 2 large Philips screw that holds on the rotor.
Note: Its at least a #3 Philips if not a #4, I also used some WD-40 or similar and let it sit for a few min. to loosen up the screw because you don’t want to strip it.
I also used a rubber mallet to pound the screwdriver into the screw to insure I did not strip it. I have heard of them being easy to take off, and difficult to take off.
Remove and Reinstall the rotor.
Remove pads.
With a piece of wood (or old pad) and a large “C” clamp carefully push the piston back flush with the caliper. (so you can install the new pad)
Note: If your brake fluid is high you might want to remove some fluid out of the reservoir before you push back the piston. You can use a turkey baster to remove the fluid. I found one at the 99 cents store (its not reusable for next thanksgiving J)
The pads are held in with spring clips on the calipers. There is a metal plate on the back of the pads that is an anti squeak plate.
Clean off the caliper and bolts with some brake cleaner.
Reinstall the pads (you can use anti squeak compound or the plate or both if you want)
Reinstall caliper and bolts, use anti-seize if you have it on the threads of the bolts, torque bolts.
Install wheel.
Start car, push down brake pedal, stop car, check fluid.
Use break-in procedures for new rotors and pads.
Note: some people change there brake fluid at this point. I choose not to. I don’t even see the point at bleeding the brakes. (unless you cracked the line by accident)
Tool List:
3/8” Ratchet
3/8” Drive Socket Set (Metric)
Screwdriver with #3 Philips bit
6”-8” “C” Clamp
Turkey Baster
Brake Cleaner
Brake Fluid
Anti-Squeak
If your keeping the same calipers…
Jack the car. Note: be safe when jacking…
Turn the key to the on position and push the brake pedal several times until you do not feel any pressure on it.
Note: make sure the car is on level ground and opposite wheel is chocked.
Remove the wheel and tire assy.
Unbolt the brake line clamp from the frame of the car. (11mm I think)
Unbolt the caliper from around the rotor. (again 11mm I think)
Use lockwire or string to hold the caliper with the piston on it out of the way but not with the brake line supporting the weight.
Unbolt the 2 large Philips screw that holds on the rotor.
Note: Its at least a #3 Philips if not a #4, I also used some WD-40 or similar and let it sit for a few min. to loosen up the screw because you don’t want to strip it.
I also used a rubber mallet to pound the screwdriver into the screw to insure I did not strip it. I have heard of them being easy to take off, and difficult to take off.
Remove and Reinstall the rotor.
Remove pads.
With a piece of wood (or old pad) and a large “C” clamp carefully push the piston back flush with the caliper. (so you can install the new pad)
Note: If your brake fluid is high you might want to remove some fluid out of the reservoir before you push back the piston. You can use a turkey baster to remove the fluid. I found one at the 99 cents store (its not reusable for next thanksgiving J)
The pads are held in with spring clips on the calipers. There is a metal plate on the back of the pads that is an anti squeak plate.
Clean off the caliper and bolts with some brake cleaner.
Reinstall the pads (you can use anti squeak compound or the plate or both if you want)
Reinstall caliper and bolts, use anti-seize if you have it on the threads of the bolts, torque bolts.
Install wheel.
Start car, push down brake pedal, stop car, check fluid.
Use break-in procedures for new rotors and pads.
Note: some people change there brake fluid at this point. I choose not to. I don’t even see the point at bleeding the brakes. (unless you cracked the line by accident)
Tool List:
3/8” Ratchet
3/8” Drive Socket Set (Metric)
Screwdriver with #3 Philips bit
6”-8” “C” Clamp
Turkey Baster
Brake Cleaner
Brake Fluid
Anti-Squeak
#5
CL-S retired 10.17.06
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YEs! This is exactly what I needed. Thanks mushutofu for the link and major props to craigwilloughby for bein patient enough to type all that out. I'm printing both out and will work off these this weekend. BTW, I'm keeping the stock calipers for now. I'm looking to go w/ a big brake kit in the future but that means I have to change rims as well. I was hoping to keep the car stock looking but I know I would benefit more w/ 2 or 4 piston brakes. I have 3 more mods before I call it quits. Pulleys, big brake kit and rims. Other than that, I'm totally happy w/ my car. Thanks again for the info. This should be put in the useful topics cause that's where I looked before I posted.
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