kHmER Co

Im getting a custom system!! for you car audio experts.. how does this sound this is what i have decided so far on equiptment

AMP Lanzar VHC2000 $399.95 @ sounddomain.com

Pioneer DEH-P7400MP CD/MP3 Player $233.88@ etronics.com

Infinity KAPPA PERFECT 12.1 Subwoofer 164.99x3=494.97@ etronics.com

what other kind of stuff will i need.. battery? eq?.. im kinda depending on the professional for their opinion.. but maybe one of you guys know alot about car audio stuff.. if anyone can help me with equiptment selection i would really apreacite it.. one thing for sure i like the infinity kappa speakers looks so thats a definitate that im getting those.. also i thought the amp and deck look "nice" so thats what i have in mind for now.. please any help is welcome i dont want to spend alot of money for cheap shit

my2sense

and that comes out to $2500 how? I think you need to take basic math again, buddy

for just a single amp system, you shouldnt need to upgrade the battery/alternator or get a cap. unless you want to spend the extra cash, that is. im running 1000w rms on my system with the stock parts - no problem so far.

mbeebe

Why do you really need 3 12's two would be great and one would be fine. You are never going to push them to the limit, and if you do something is going to bust. You wont even get them to their full potential unless you run at least two 1000 watt amps and probably need three. You will have no trunk space and your car is going to rattle apart.

SiGGy

LMAO 1000watts RMS on the stock alternator, or even with the stock electrical system. HA

NO NO NO

not possible....

speaking of basic math....

----- snip ---- snip ----- snip ------

My .02c on car audio, and all of the misunderstood things about it

Without a capacitor the max WATTS you can achieve ***sustained*** is about 176 with 12 volts at fairly standard AMPs (factory alternator)... do the math. The rest is just advertising... 1000watts! for .0001 of second.. LOL

Lets start with just pure fuses...

Ampfuse= ammount of amps the fuses will hold
13 Volts x AmpFuse = RAW watts

13volts X 20amp = 260 RAW watts

So if you see some 500watt amp with a 20amp fuse... ummm NO I dont think so.

Voltage x Amperage x Efficiency = Peak Watts

We'll use a 60AMP fused amp for example... (my phoenix gold)

Since the average amplifier is about 50% efficient, meaning it loses half of all the power it can make to heat, we can calculate for my ZX500 amp...

13 volts x 60 amps x 50% efficiency (.5) = 390 peak watts

Wait then lets add in RMS!

Voltage x Amperage x Efficiency x .707 = Watts RMS

13 volts x 60 amps x 50% efficiency (.5) x .707 = 275.73 watts RMS

LOL, yes you have been had! Granted most amp will *peak* at high voltages/watts... you also have to ask what class AMP are they? A B or C? LOL or even D who cares if you have a 1000watt class D amp...

Class A in a car! (yes there are a few, but very low output) no... Class B or C more than likely.

If you wanted to actually produce the true 800 watts, in my amplifier, according to our equation, would have to draw nearly 174 amps from you car at 13 volts! Since the average alternator only produces between 80 to 100 amps, this could be a serious problem, requiring hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars in batteries, caps, and electrical upgrades. Numbers never lie, folks. You can lie about the numbers, but the numbers never lie.

Bdog

Damn Siggy, That was so complicated I have to believe you.
Anyway, just because the Infinity's look good isn't why I would buy them. I would buy JL Audio subs, MB Quarts seperates. Your deck seems to be fine. You could add a Pheonix Gold EQ232 Signal Processor for fine tuning. Wire it all heavy guage with PG wires. It is about endless what you could do. Pick up a Car Audio or see what IASCA winners have in there cars. You will see alot of MBQ's and JL's. Just my opinion

my2sense

siggy - thats all well and nice, but my amp isnt a cheapie like your PG. If you knew anything about the Soundstream line, the Reference 10.0 retailed for $999 MSRP. If they advertise 1000watts RMS x 1 (bridged) at 1 ohm, and put that on the box, then I believe them. Otherwise, it would be false advertising...

as much as I'd like to belive what you're saying, and I totally respect your "knowledge" about such subjects, I think you're wrong in this instance.

Granted, my sub probably isnt seeing that full 1000w due to power contraints and the fact that the gain is only half-way up, amongst other things. Besides, my sub is 750w rms power handling.. and I dont' feel like blowing it anytime soon.

my2sense

oh yeah.. its Class A too

doubt me? check this out

http://www.iserv.net/~ghimta/refa.htm

nice try though, siggy

my2sense

one more thing.. you seem to be a self-professed expert on this subject, but I find that hard to believe with the amateur setup you're currently running.

I was pushing 2000w rms in my Integra, and won multiple SPL competitions... but I digress...

kHmER Co

I forgot to mention they are building a custom box w/ plexiglass/glass lighting ect.. which would be around 500 and plus installation and everything will come to about that price that i was quoted

Bdog

With all that shit Siggy said I thought it sounded good. But now you steped up and showed your stuff and I have a Soundstream pushing my JL's. Check here http://www.autosound2000.com/WhoWeAre.htm if you got any questions about any thing stereo or sound related. Richard Clark is the best in the world. He has had the best car stereo system that has ever been made.

kHmER Co

oh wait.. the 2500 estimate is for the whole system components installation and everything.. what i listen is just some of the equiptment that i am getting.

Bdog

It doesn't sound like a bad setup. But sound wise I would look at JL Audio Subs instead of the Infinitys.
What mid and highs are you looking at?

kHmER Co

How am i suppose to contact him about this ahhaha?

Bdog

I forgot. You will need about $400.00 worth of Dynomat done to your car. I have not done that yet and everything in my car rattles now. From windshield to door panels with only two subs.

Bdog

This was mainly ment for Siggy and my2sense in case they got in to a bitch fest.

kHmER Co

stock i guess? im not really a car audio freak

SiGGy

LoL, did you read my line right after that in my old post which says

"spend your money on home equipment!" I don't wasnt my money on car stuff.. but i like a litte thumping in the car. Class A on a car. hehe, at ,mabye 10 watts. Most amps are Class swithing depending on the outout level.

If you live in KC bring you amp on by, I'll put it on a scope and show ya.

And YES my numbers are correct

ITS CALLED PHYSICS RELATED TO ELECTRONICS! go get a EET degree and come agrue your side. or just go pickup a basic electronics book.

Pure and simple man WATTS= VOLTSxAMPS (then subtract for efficiency and RMS)

My complete argument if you sustaining 1000 watts
you'd need over 174 amp of draw from you alternator!

Almost all car amps are way overrated.

Car Audio has no forced rating system. If they put a 220volt cap in the AMP and it peaks at 1000watts RMS for .0001 of a second (at 1 omm LMAO) they can sell it as that.

Called marketing man. It obviously works. But if you know nothing about electronics and choose to argu this. Go ask a teacher at MIT, IIT, or Devry. And see what they say. Better yet ask a RF engineer....

or mabye you already did.

SiGGy

nice try? lol, go read some electronics books man

and stop being sold.

1st there isnt enough info on that page to make any specifcis on the amps specs. Accept for what they claim.

And "Class A" is the name of the model.

So they keep saying class through out the article.

the 25watts of class A output they claim I can totally believe. And is more than enough output for some tweets and migrage speakers.

But they dont claim class A above 25watts, however they do use the model name over and over describing the higher outputs.

Phoenix gold isnt a complete POS. Granted it doesnt have the claims this amp has.


for the amp you have shown...
one is going to assume...

Rated Power:
25 Watts X 2 @ 4 ohms, 12V
100 Watts X 2 @ 2 ohms, 12V
1000 Watts X 1 @ 1 or 1/2 ohm mono, 12V

25 at class A
100 At Class B
1000 at Class C

How may amps draw does it use?
Whats its efficency?
Whats its claimed RMS?

do you have the manual? check the specs

BigPimp

With all this knowledge going around, I cant believe you guys did not tell this guy not to buy Lanzar amps. Those are really low line amps, if you gonna drop this type of cash at least get something like MTX or Rockford Fosgate.
JL audio subs would be much better and Eclipse decks are pretty good, but I am sure you would be fine with Pioneer.

Bdog

I don't know alot about all the numbers flying around, but I did buy my stuff from a #1 IASCA Pro competitor that has a store here in town Superior Sound. I said that I want the best for under three grand. Got Eclipse deck (they are kinda plain),
MB Quarts and two JL W3 subs. I all ready had my amps. Those three were a little under $2000.00. The DVD deck is more expensive. This was what I was told was the best.

Ultimac

Go with JL's I've been running w6's for a while now, sound good. If you are really looking for thump get some w8' and a 1200w amp run 0-8 gauge wire all the way throughout, change your fuses, get an alternator cap and a dry cell battery. Make sure your box is sealed, you don't need to port it unless you are running low power. Sealed has a tighter sound. Another thing MTX amps always put out a lot more power than the class rating. EXample: 400*2 amp will put out like 532 by 2.

my2sense

siggy - again, i like hearing you talk out of your ass, its quite funny. I really dont care what you think you know about car audio from your Electronics 101 - Intro to Electronics couse that you took at your local community college. Maybe you should get some applied knowledge now, and actually verify what you think you know, instead of making assumptions based upon your $20 textbook.

again, i dont know why I feel the compulsion to prove you wrong, but if you really want hardcore specs, go here

http://www.webartisans.net/clients/s...mplifiers.html

believe what you want. numbers are for real, especially for this amp which costs twice as much as your whole audio system put together. dont be bitter.

my2sense

click the above link and choose "Reference CA 10.0", smart guy.

Scooter

read my sig

im right behind ya in the shopping spree department!!

tires alone set me back about $850 (they better b worth every penny)

Ashburner

I think your wasting your money!

I spent $500 on my stereo with a simple Bazooka 700 Watt amp and a Soundstream SPL 12 in a prebuilt box.

This cheap ass system beats the shit out of my car. I spent $4500 on my last car stereo and it is just not worth it.

For $500 bucks, my SPL 12 can almost blow my trunk off. Who knew Bazooka made amps?

-Ash

spiroh

I'm running close to 1600w. 1200 of it from my class D amp. I haventhad that many problems, aside from the lights dimming when pounding hard. I'm not using a cap.

Bdog

The most important part of a car stereo is the mid and highs up front. When you are driving your car do you drive from the trunk?

kHmER Co

Thanks for all the great advice guys.. well since some of you mention that Lanzar is a low quality brand for amps.. what would you suggest as far as amps go.. i want something that "looks" nice and is high quality.. under $1000 preferabally around 500.. w/ about 1000+ watts of power.. what do you guys think? what amp should i get if i run 2 12's.... in a custom sealed box.. speakers i may be looking into the new JL audio speakers that came out.. and umm.. i dont know what other equiptment do i need to put on my list?

Bdog

A high quality 1000 watt amp that "looks" good under $500.00? You may get a class D amp for that. Some things you may have to compromise with. My high quality 500W amp was $550.00. I would look at Alpine, Autotek, Orion, Pheonix Gold, Rockford Fosgate (power series),Soundstream. Depending on what 12's you get, some amps cater to the mid and highs. You need bass power. My JL's are 500watts and I am running 500watts to them. Whatever you get run what they are (1000w speakers = 1000w amp. ect.)