I just got my car back from the dealer for the 45k service a couple weeks ago, and since then I have noticed a problem with my idle, first when the engine is cold and in pak or neutral the idel is about 500 above the 750 idle point (putting it in gear drops it down to 750) or when it warms up it idels at the correct point. But when driving around when I come to a stop I notice it (more so it the colder temps) when I stop it feels like the car is about to stall and then recovers and sitting at a red light this can happen several time or not at all, watching the tach I can see the rmps fall to just about 500 and bounce back to 750. I was wondering if there was anything I could check myself before having to take it to a dealer, which would be a pain. No check engine or service engine soon lights are on. Is there any danger waiting to take it in till say the next oil change or something?

 

i've noticed it a couple'a times myself..i think its just the tps doin it job not to its full potential/efficiancy

 

It should be fine. The IAC in these cars are not the greatest along with the ECUs ability to control it properly. You could re-run the Idle Learn procedure and see if it makes a difference.

 

Thats weird I've been noticing the same thing lately. So has Chopper and Randy, we were just talking about it in another post ... I am going to have Park Ave Acura check it out tomorrow, I have an appt for stainless brake line install.

 

let us know what they say about it.

scalbert, what is the Idle learn process?

 

I'll post tomorrow when I get home with the SS brakeline install review. I'll let you guys know what they say bout the idle problem.

I think the idle learn process scalbert is referring to is to disconnect the battery, for like 10min and let the ecu clear, reconnect batt, then start up and let it idle for bout 10min or 3 cooling fan cycles.

 

Correct, except ten seconds is enough and you can pull the passenger side No. 13 fuse in place of disconnection the battery. But the rest is correct.

 

I assume pulling that fuse will keep the radio working, I really don't want to have to dig up the code for it.

 

If its the fuse for the ECU, then no you will not have to reset navi or radio .. not really sure what the No. 13 fuse is tho. I've always disconnected the batt.

 

The fuse is for the clock and the ECU memory. With the fuse pulled the memory back up power is removed.

The radio memory will remain intact.

 

Update: Went to PAA today. Told them about the issue. Tom told me "not to worry about it". Didnt really elaborate much on it, didn't go into detail .. so I guess I won't worry about it. He said if it actually stalls, then worry.

 

Thanks alot for the info