start with the rear runner. That has to come off first, then you'll have more room for the front bolts/nuts. for the rear, I only remember the passenger bolt to be a pain. I had to hold some wires to the side to get the socket on. Then I connected the wrench. once all the bolts are off the rear, I had to tap it with a mallet to break the seal then start to wiggle it up and down as you pull it off. Make sure you plug the open holes after so nothing falls in your heads. Also be very careful with the injectors. I ripped a few O-rings and broke the tip of an injector.

 

Scottyknows... did you fix your car? I am having P0108 and P0172. I tried a bunch of things, form new plugs, cleaned EGR, throttle ... I even swapped MAP and Purge SOlenoid from my other Acura. Checked the wires to the MAP. Still car is shaking at idle.


Yes, I replaced the IACV too.

 

Replaced EGR too. Forgot to mention.

 

Yea I have replaced my MAP, IACV, EGR, Engine Coolant temp, PCV valve, Intake mani gasket, top plate gasket, and throttle body gasket, and checked all my lines for vacuum leaks... At this point it has to be a vacuum leak coming from my intake manifold somewhere so I am taking off everything including the runners looking for and cracks or broken gaskets, but the runners are proving hard to get off

 

Scotty, where is the PCV located?
Over the weekend I am going to a simple test: switch the two sensors. If the sensor is bad I should get the rich code on the other bank. If I do not get that, I will take it down to the injectors level. I read that one of the injectors may be leaking...

 

The PCV valve is located on the backside of the manifold. there is a large vacuum hose that parallel to it the left side connects to the manifold the right side to the PCV valve that just pops out

 

 

I cant find the exact diagram but you see the little sensor clip and pipe that are on the back right on the manifold? (The tube #1 has a line that passes it to show were tube 1 goes.)

The PCV valve is right next to that. you can just pull it out

 

I dont know if anyone else is still reading this but want to log this for the future for anyone that has this same problem, they can look back at what I did.

Ok so another update. Removed the runners .. finally! They are easy as long as you have the right to for the job obliviously!

Looks like I had a leak and some oil was getting past the gasket. Replaced them and put everything back together after cleaning them thoroughly. Once back together. We started it back up and it idled fine. I gave it a little gas and it started surging again!

At this point we didn't now what was going on. We unplugged the TPS (Only sensor I haven't replaced) and there was no change to the idle. I feel like there should have been.. Then found the air assist valve on top of the Thermostat. Looks like this by passes the throttle and shoots air straight to runners if needed. It is the first tube next to intake filter on the intake pipe.

We blocked this with a bag and started it, the idle died down drastically, but still idling slightly high and surging (slightly)

Started reading through the Helms manual and found a valve on top of the throttle body that you can open and close with a flat head, regulating how much air the throttle body can hold/intake I guess?

Tightened the valve down and the idle hasnt been an issue for the last day. I am going to keep my eye on it b/c we still think my TPS is going out. But as of right now the car is idling perfect. No surging. Hopefully this is the last thing I do with it

 

The screw you're referring to is call the Idle Speed Adjustment Screw. :

 

Ahh! Is that common to have to adjust this from time to time?

 

^ No never, most pees just do the idle relearn. That screw should not cause erratic idle. It should increase and decrease at a steady rpm.

How many turns did you tighten the screw... for the record?

 

BTW you might want to check the Idle Screw's O-ring. It might of deteriorated.

 

O yea? Screwed it less than 2/3 of a tightening turn

 

Did you have any CEL codes? I have the same problem with P0172. It drives me crazy. In a way it challenges me to learn some more about my car but it is very frustrating at times.

 

Scotty, can you post a picture of the Idle Speed Adjustment Screw? Or anyone, what is the idle re-learning procedure?

Thank you,
So.

 

It is #1 on the diagram

 

The only code that I would get was P0505 once it had been surging for 10 minutes or so.. than it would stay at 2000 rpms and throw this code. Only way to get it to stop was to disconnect the battery.

But once I adjusted the screw the idle figured itself out and I didnt need to re learn the idle.

Please anyone correct me if I am wrong but from what I read, reset your computer by disconnecting your battery. Hook it back up and start your car. Hold the revs at 2500-3000 rpms for a few minutes until your condensor fan kicks in than let off, and let it find the idle on its own. If you have fixed everything else then it might surge once or twice and then stabilize exactly where it needs to be

 

^ correction to Idle relearn.

Idle relearn procedure.

Before starting the relearn procedure turn off all electrical items that draw current... radio, ac, etc.

1. Reset PCM by pulling the clock fuse for 10 seconds then reinstall the fuse or disconnect/connect battery.

2. Start engine and hold at 3000 rpm untill a fan comes on. After a fan comes on let it idle for 5 minutes.

Note: Do not include any fan on time in the 5 minutes of idle time.

 

 

My scan tool offers output for the O2 Sensor2, not 1, as in the diagram. Indeed the output is constantly over 0.6V, usually 0.7-0.8V, which causes STFT Bank1 -24%, which in turn sets the Long Term Fuel Trim to double-digit negative, which throws the P0172.


Thank you anyway. I found this somewhere else too but I think it is the chart the auto-mechanics use.

 

01acl, can you post how to "1. Check the fuel pressure" page 11-164! I hope there are two pages only .

 

 

^ If you don't have the right diagnostic tool then just replace all the parts. That's around $200-$250 I think.