MarkSvara

I have a 01 CLS and sometimes if the engine is real hot from stop and go traffic and I shut it off then when I start it again it idles extremely rough. It feels like a deisel. At the same time when I accelerate it barely makes it to 4000 and then the engine dies. It's happened in the past but last night it didn't go away. I actually had to wait for 30 minutes until the engine was cool again for it to start normally. I then drove it to the dealership and today they called me and told me the issue is the additives they use in GAS here in TO. They put winter additives in the gas even though we don't need it and what is happening is the gas is evapourating faster than it can get to the injectors. Another tech told me the exact reverse that the ECU is dumping too much fuel. They want $1,300 to reprogram the ECU and install a higher fuel pressure regulator. Basically the first tech told me they have to increase the fuel pressure to make this go away. It sounds suspicious doesn't it?

oneilc

Definitely sounds suspect. I'd say it's time for a 3rd opinion from a non-Acura dealership.

MarkSvara

I know it sounds suspect to me too. I'm hoping someone here had the same or similar problem. Anyone?

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Does it have any codes? Check that first. If not you could clean the IAC valve & TB out. See if that helps, if not, might be a bad fuel pressure regulator. Run a can of injector cleaner throuh the gas tank see if that helps. If you fill up at a different gas station that will kill any chance it's bad gas.

MarkSvara

Fuzzy. I have tried 2 types of gas and it seems to occur with both types. I will try and clean the TB out. What's the procedure? With my cavi I used to just spray the stuff in while it's off then turn it on and at 1500RPM's spray more into the engine.

The dealer didn't tell me any codes. I didn't ask. Should I? I ran a can of FI cleaner a couple of tanks ago.

MarkSvara

Oh Yeah one more thing Fuzzy. If the car can store Codes but not flip the CEL then there could be codes but the CEL light didn't come on.

dgracer

I'll bet you have a lot of deposits on the back of the intake valves. This can be checked by someone with a fiber-optic camera. You need to get the FI pressure cleaned and run several tanks of Techron through the fuel.

MarkSvara

How do I get rid of deposits in the fuel line? I'll bet the guy before me used cheap gas all the time.

carquest

the fuel pressure explaination sounds correct. w/ enough pressure in the fuel rails the fuel won't vaporize (boil). vapor causes air pockets in the fuel and completely screws up the injectors delievery. low pressure will cause this condition. this used to be a common problem before computer controlled fuel injection. fuel in the carb would boil and cause rough idleing, ruogh running, dieseling, stalling, etc. the condition is known as vapor lock. sounds like the problem. even some of the early injection systems suffered from it.

however...... i'm not convinced that re-programming the ECU is the answer. if you have any aftermarket ECU performance "chips" or external performance control boxes this could be an area for investigation. any other performance related engine mods could also be the problem. it could be as simple as engine timing. before you go re-programming ECUs have some basic things checked. engine timing, fuel pressure (this checks the pump & regulator operation to insure it's keeping adequate pressure in the rails). check for a leaking injector. this is the most likely source of the problem.

good luck.

MarkSvara

Well I have an update to this issue. Acura has a TSB that they have released about something called "HARD START AFTER 'HOT SOAK'" The bulletin #V-3-01 has to do with 2000 3.2 TL's with VIN# 19UUA566*YA800001 UP TO 19UUA5661YA805472 and 2001 3.2 CL's with VIN# 19UYA426*1A800001 UP TO 19UYA42621A800868. Basically it's to do with the additives in winter gas in areas that experience really cold winters. The gas manufacturers lower the boiling point of fuel therefore if the engine is extremely hot or if the day is suddenly warmer than usual there is something that happens to that fuel. It vaporizes in the fuel lines.

The FIX: Replace the FPR with P/N: 16740-PGK-A01 and Replace the ECU (Unfortunately I don't have the P/N of the new ECU sorry). The good news is the new FPR is an adjustable unit

Chopsie

Interesting find