Here's the background:Months ago brakes didn't feel right, the didn't seem as responsive and the pedal went lower to the ground. Took it to shop and the said rear calipers seized. My buddy unseized them for me. It was the slider bolts that were seized. We changed the rotors and the pads (I had swapped out the OEM for the Rotora's 6 months earlier and the oem only had 10K on them so I put them back in temporarily. Brakes still didn't feel as good and pedal seemed to go a bit lower. Went Honda and had them flush out the lines. A little better but still they didn't feel right brake pedal was going lower than gas pedal to bring car to complete stop. Went to acura because I thought it might be master cylinder. They said it was the real caliper piston passenger side had rust. They said the wrong pads were on that rear brake which I didn't agree with because they were hawks and I got them installed from an acura dealership that did mods and the part number had matched up to what people on azine were using. They said fronts were fine and I had them serviced. Of course they wanted a grand to fix everything. The car was still saftely driveable. I decided I would order in the r1 concept rotors and pads. Which brings me to present. Shoot, I have to go, will post the rest in half hour.

 

sounds like the master cylinder is bad by what you are describing. If you look at the master cylinder, do you see and fluid on the brake booster?

 

Well I would replace the rear calipers then.

 

Okay, I'm back...had to get a ride to work b/c my car is on jack stands!!! Yesterday we changed rear rotors and pads. We also opened up the rear passenger caliper, relubed the slider bolts (they were fine already). We clampted the brake line, took off the caliper, took out the piston, cleaned up the little bit of rust on the exposed edges. We put everything back together. In hind sight, we should have bled the brakes right then and there. We decided to try out brakes. We were bedding them in, but the pedal had a lot of travel before the brakes were fully engaged. My buddy was surprised at how low the brakes were going. This is what I had tried to explain to the dealership that my pedal had to go too low, but they just said it felt a little hard (is it normal for the brake to have to travel lower than the gas pedal??!! I don't think it is). So we put the car in the garage and have it on jack stands and start bleeding starting with driver front, passnger front, passenger rear as per posting on this board. My buddy was confused about the order, he said its usually the other way around, but we went with what's on the board. While bleeding the driver front, the pedal was getting harder like it should. We then switched to the passenger front and it was still getting harder as we pumped the brake and the fluid didn't have air in it. It was while doing front passenger that it felt like my foot moved a bit in my shoe, so the pedal may have come up a quarter inch. We bled it twice more, but the pedal pressure was fine and it didn't feel like any air got in. We then switched rear passenger. The first few pumps were fine, fluid came out and there was a little bit of air as well. Then all of a sudden, the pedal pressure just dropped! We bled it another five times and only got a little bit of an increase in pressure, but it was still easy to press all the way down. We then moved to the driver rear and same thing a bit of air, not much and not much fluid either. We checked the engine bay for fluid level and it was still around the max mark. We bled that about 5 times and then went back to the front driver and bled it five times, but not a lot of fluid, some air bubbles. We did this for over half an hour, making sure to check the reservoir and pumping the brake 5-10 times before bleeding the brake. Was getting a little discouraged at this point, because pedal pressure wasn't increasing. Then the miscommunication happened. I thought my buddy said to let go of the pedal but he was saying to keep it down. I let go of the pedal. So of course air got in the lines and the brake pedal was really easy to push to the ground, hardly any resistance (the only resistance was probably from my leg feeling a little sore!) We tried for over 2 hours to no avail switching to a different brake every 5-6 bleeds. We tried pumping the pedal 15-20 times before opening the bleeder screw, but same results. The pedal pressure didn't change much and there were some bubbles and some fluid dribbling out at a very slow rate, not like how it was initially. It almost seems like there is no pressure in the system to push the fluid/air. Also the brake fluid level wasn't changing much at all over the last hour. Should we continue to try and bleed the brakes today or is something messed up? Any suggestions?

 

SPoolinspOON do you mean in the brake boost or on the brake boost? What would it mean if it was/wasn't there?

 

What i'm thinking is that its the master cylinder.

The master cylinder is attached to the brake booster (big circular thing behind it. If you look at where the master cylinder is connected to the brake booster, is there any fluid on the bottem of it?

The direction of bleeding brakes seem backwords, but if everyone says its done that way I guess it is. I would of bleed the brake Passenger Rear, Driver Rear, Passenger Front, Driver Front.

Also make sure that there are no rips/leaking from the brake lines.

 

My buddy figured it out while I was at work. He even bled the lines by himself during the afternoon. Brakes are working better than ever. I don't think the other dealership did a good job flushing out my lines! Brake pedal is above the gas pedal again. He said something was loose, we must have dislodged it somehow. Anyhow, thanks for your help! Too bad it's snowing/freezing rain here now, I can't really test out the brakes now...until April!