Header Install, Done!!
Thread Starter
Suzuka Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,431
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From: Woodstock, GA
Header Install, Done!!
First off, I will do a full write up on this for an FAQ soon. This is just the quick version. Plus, some photo's will be available soon, I didn't have a digital camera so I just used my wife's new Nikon (I'm sure the pictures will come out clearer than the dig...).
The nerve of the dealer, saying it would take 4 hours... Time for a complete install, 2.5 hours. (and only two significant scrapes). Could have been done in 2 hours if I had someone to help due to one single issue (discussed below). But in all, it is fairly easy, if you have the right tools. I do have all needed tools including a 5hp/25 Gal. compressor with all needed air tools. But simple hand tools will work.
But the big thing to remember when attempting the install, have long extensions, 18" or 24", for your ratchet. And have two sets of tools.
I was surprised at how quickly everything came off. Even with the rear manifold cover lower bolt sticking, which I broke off, it still only took 45 minutes to remove everything. I have a pic with old and new sitting side by side. To access everything I put the front up on ramps then jacked and supported the rear with stands. With it like this, getting to the rear manifold from the top was difficult due to the elevated car height. But from the top was the easiest, so I used an old crate to stand on, raising me about a foot. This way I didn't have to drop and raise the vehicle...
I do suggest that the manifolds be accessed from the top. The front is a no-brainer. It is well exposed. The rear I suggest accessing from the drivers side. It may be a bit of a reach to get to the passengers side bolts, but doable. I'm 6'1" and it was well within my reach. Someone shorter could still easily get to it.
I won't go into details on the install, Comptech's installation sheet defines it well enough and I do suggest having the shop manual also.
But the one area that was a pain was hooking up the new A-Pipe to the new headers. Instead of using studs they use bolts. Problem here is that the bolt will turn on top but there is little to no room to put a wrench on it and hold it. The rear was the worst. I used and adjustable wrench lodged against something strong to keep it from turning when tightening the lower bolt. Again, an air ratchet is a welcome tool n this case. The front bolts can be held with a swivel joint and a long extension. But you will need someone's help here.
Tightening down the headers to the heads was simple. The back was tight but very doable. That was it...
First impressions, exactly what I expected. Not neck snapping or immediately noticeable, but as the revs climb it begs for more. In fact, I found myself stepping into the throttle a little less deep in most cases. It wasn’t needed to obtain normal speeds. But when I did get into it the power seems to continue well past where it would drop of. The car is now begging for about 500 more revs…
Definitely worth the $$, IMO.
The nerve of the dealer, saying it would take 4 hours... Time for a complete install, 2.5 hours. (and only two significant scrapes). Could have been done in 2 hours if I had someone to help due to one single issue (discussed below). But in all, it is fairly easy, if you have the right tools. I do have all needed tools including a 5hp/25 Gal. compressor with all needed air tools. But simple hand tools will work.
But the big thing to remember when attempting the install, have long extensions, 18" or 24", for your ratchet. And have two sets of tools.
I was surprised at how quickly everything came off. Even with the rear manifold cover lower bolt sticking, which I broke off, it still only took 45 minutes to remove everything. I have a pic with old and new sitting side by side. To access everything I put the front up on ramps then jacked and supported the rear with stands. With it like this, getting to the rear manifold from the top was difficult due to the elevated car height. But from the top was the easiest, so I used an old crate to stand on, raising me about a foot. This way I didn't have to drop and raise the vehicle...
I do suggest that the manifolds be accessed from the top. The front is a no-brainer. It is well exposed. The rear I suggest accessing from the drivers side. It may be a bit of a reach to get to the passengers side bolts, but doable. I'm 6'1" and it was well within my reach. Someone shorter could still easily get to it.
I won't go into details on the install, Comptech's installation sheet defines it well enough and I do suggest having the shop manual also.
But the one area that was a pain was hooking up the new A-Pipe to the new headers. Instead of using studs they use bolts. Problem here is that the bolt will turn on top but there is little to no room to put a wrench on it and hold it. The rear was the worst. I used and adjustable wrench lodged against something strong to keep it from turning when tightening the lower bolt. Again, an air ratchet is a welcome tool n this case. The front bolts can be held with a swivel joint and a long extension. But you will need someone's help here.
Tightening down the headers to the heads was simple. The back was tight but very doable. That was it...
First impressions, exactly what I expected. Not neck snapping or immediately noticeable, but as the revs climb it begs for more. In fact, I found myself stepping into the throttle a little less deep in most cases. It wasn’t needed to obtain normal speeds. But when I did get into it the power seems to continue well past where it would drop of. The car is now begging for about 500 more revs…
Definitely worth the $$, IMO.
Adult Supervision
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 0
From: Wicked Retahded North of Bahstin
Are they noticably louder?
------------------
CL-S #22,299 Black/Parchment/Nav, spoiler, door & fender guards, wood trim, PIAA 19169 & 9005, V1 w/remote, trunk & winter mats, Road Salt Finish by Mass DOT, only 1 scratched rim
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CL-S #22,299 Black/Parchment/Nav, spoiler, door & fender guards, wood trim, PIAA 19169 & 9005, V1 w/remote, trunk & winter mats, Road Salt Finish by Mass DOT, only 1 scratched rim
Thread Starter
Suzuka Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,431
Likes: 0
From: Woodstock, GA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by MikeS 18:
Are they noticably louder?
</font>
Are they noticably louder?
</font>
The sound at all speeds is no different IMO.
Thread Starter
Suzuka Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,431
Likes: 0
From: Woodstock, GA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by MikeS 18:
Are they noticably louder?
</font>
Are they noticably louder?
</font>
The sound at all speeds is no different IMO.
Adult Supervision
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 0
From: Wicked Retahded North of Bahstin
Can you scan the C/T install sheets as well so that we can judge whether this is something which we might be able to undertake? - or take a picture of them too...
------------------
CL-S #22,299 Black/Parchment/Nav, spoiler, door & fender guards, wood trim, PIAA 19169 & 9005, V1 w/remote, trunk & winter mats, Road Salt Finish by Mass DOT, only 1 scratched rim
------------------
CL-S #22,299 Black/Parchment/Nav, spoiler, door & fender guards, wood trim, PIAA 19169 & 9005, V1 w/remote, trunk & winter mats, Road Salt Finish by Mass DOT, only 1 scratched rim
Senior Moderator
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 10,925
Likes: 12
From: location location
That's great, Steve!
Let us know when you make some gtech runs. Especially if you can make some 1/4 mile runs since you have a good baseline.
------------------
2001 Satin Silver Cl Type S.
Comptech Headers
Comptech Springs
Muds
Wheel locks
35% Llumar metallic tint
My Car
[This message has been edited by Mike (edited 01-29-2001).]
Let us know when you make some gtech runs. Especially if you can make some 1/4 mile runs since you have a good baseline.
------------------
2001 Satin Silver Cl Type S.
Comptech Headers
Comptech Springs
Muds
Wheel locks
35% Llumar metallic tint
My Car
[This message has been edited by Mike (edited 01-29-2001).]
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robb m.
robb m.
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 72,841
Likes: 660
From: ON
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by scalbert:
No, in fact my wife, who would be the first to notice and disagree with the sound, could not tell a difference. I did manually flex the flex joint, but am unsure if that help.
The sound at all speeds is no different IMO.</font>
No, in fact my wife, who would be the first to notice and disagree with the sound, could not tell a difference. I did manually flex the flex joint, but am unsure if that help.
The sound at all speeds is no different IMO.</font>
can't wait to see the pics, now I'm kicking myself in the ass for letting the dealer put my headers on
guess that will teach me for being lazy...hehe
btw: flexing the pipe by hand is exactly how I fixed my headers after getting sick of the resonance they were making...
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Astroboy out...
2001 Acura CL Type S: Comptech: Headers, filter, sways, springs, koni shocks, goodridge braided brake lines, full kicker system
1996 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo: H&R Springs and sways, Bilstein shocks
Thread Starter
Suzuka Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,431
Likes: 0
From: Woodstock, GA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by MikeS 18:
Can you scan the C/T install sheets as well so that we can judge whether this is something which we might be able to undertake? - or take a picture of them too...
</font>
Can you scan the C/T install sheets as well so that we can judge whether this is something which we might be able to undertake? - or take a picture of them too...
</font>
Thread Starter
Suzuka Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,431
Likes: 0
From: Woodstock, GA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Mike:
Let us know when you make some gtech runs. Especially if you can make some 1/4 mile runs since you have a good baseline.
</font>
Let us know when you make some gtech runs. Especially if you can make some 1/4 mile runs since you have a good baseline.
</font>
But have made numerous runs in these temps. So there is a baseline for comparison. In general, with temps in the 60's I was able to make fairly consitant 6.3's with these temps and 6.1's with the intake on.
We'll see what it is now...
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,658
Likes: 7
From: So. Cal
Congrats Scalbert! What is the resonance problem? I thought that comptech said they fixed it in the current issue headers?
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Tw1112
CL 3.0 '98 - Cleared bumper, hiper/piaa bulbs all around, PIAA 1700x fogs, and AEM CAI.
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Tw1112
CL 3.0 '98 - Cleared bumper, hiper/piaa bulbs all around, PIAA 1700x fogs, and AEM CAI.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 0
From: Little Elm, TX
That's great!
Can't wait to see the pics and the full write up.
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avengerjr
2001 CL-S Satin Silver / Ebony Interior / Non-Navi[*] spoiler , wheel locks , 35% tint[*] fenderwell trim , mud guards[*] winter floor mats , full nose mask[*] Xephyr CAI - on the way
girlfriend
1999 3.8L V6 Mustang Coupe Black / Black Cloth Interior[*] spoiler , 35% tint[*] MAC CAI - soon to order
Can't wait to see the pics and the full write up.
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avengerjr
2001 CL-S Satin Silver / Ebony Interior / Non-Navi[*] spoiler , wheel locks , 35% tint[*] fenderwell trim , mud guards[*] winter floor mats , full nose mask[*] Xephyr CAI - on the way
girlfriend
1999 3.8L V6 Mustang Coupe Black / Black Cloth Interior[*] spoiler , 35% tint[*] MAC CAI - soon to order
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