I posted this up in the FAQ header thread, but don't think it got any exposure. So I thought I'd post here hoping to get some responses before the end of the week.

So my brother-in-law and I tried to install my Comptech Headers this past weekend, but were unsuccessful.

I didn't have a couple of the sockets that allmotor mentioned so I gotta pick those up this week. The bolts on the A pipe connecting to the cat were on really tight. So with the use of some PB blaster and going to auto zone to pick up a breaker bar, it helped solve that problem. Too bad we had other issues...

We ran into a few other hangups along the way which I wanted to ask you guys about before we make our 2nd attempt next weekend:

1) How were you able to get to the bolt that is on the top of the A pipe that connects to the CAT to loosen the bolt? When we tried to get to it, my socket wrench kept hitting the exhaust hanger that is to the left of the pipe if you were facing towards the front of the car). Which tool did you use to get to that?

2) I have a hydraulic jack and some jack stands. of course just behind the wheel is the proper jack location, but that is where the jack stands would go. where else is a good location under the car to place the hydraulic jack so that I don't inadvertently cause any bending or damage to the frame?

3) In the install directions for the comptech headers, step 1 says to remove the center beam that goes front to back under the engine to make the install easier. we looked and couldn't identify the beam they were talking about. Anyone have a picture of what they were referring to? (I forgot to take pics of my car before I took it off the jack stands, sorry)



Other highlights, we looked and looked, and didnt' see how people could manage to drop the headers from the top. The bottom seems to be the easiest way of doing so. The only thing that seems difficult is making sure the gasket is in the right location when we try to bolt up the header since it's such a tight squeeze.

 

soak the bolt with lots of wd40 or liquid wrench than let it seat for a min or two, than use a open wrench with the correct size to get it off.

Steven

 

No beams need to be removed.

I remember during my install I uninstalled the OEM headers like this.

1)Front header
2)rear header
3)attacking the collector pipe to the cat, that was a pain...WD-40 works though. You'll need a breaker bar if they are rusted on there that good.
4)The collector pipe should just just drop down. Don't forget to screw out the 02 sensor before you drop the pipe.

5)install the comptech headers in reverse order. The PITA will be tightening down the screws for the rear headers. It's easiest to tighten them down if you are sitting on the engine. You may want to take out the OEM strut bar so you can get more room to get your hand down there.

Hope this works.

 

1. Use a #14 closed wrench and hammer it with a mallot to loosen it -OR- use a swivel socket (harder since it tends to swivel and you lose some of the torque applied).
2. You can place the jack on the front cross-member (gets the most height out of a 24" lift jack) and use the jack-stands for support (and safety)
3. The automatics have a center bracket I believe, but I have ssen cars with and without them - go figure

 

MAPP gas torch just heat up the area around the bolt and it will expand freeing up the bolt just a tad bit.

 

Thanks guys for the comments.

 

sorry for my incompetenace, but where is the front cross-member?

yea, mine is a 6spd, probably why I didn't see any center bracket/beam.

 

I always thought heated metal is harder to loosen because metal expands when it's heated?

 

Thanxs, I'll keep those tips in mind during the 2nd attempt.

 

Front cross-member is that metal piece where the front motor-mount and vibration mount go on. It is a u-shaped big piece of metal under the engine. The front of it has this flat spot (just where the front of the A-pipe is) and you can position the jack there to get the most lift. Of couse you should put the jack stands and remove the jack from there while working on the car.

 

this is a little off the topic but there are a few SoCal peeps in here. it would be nice to see some of you CLers at the upcoming meet. let me know...

 

Thats why you heat up the metal around the stud and more of the nut and metal around it, saved me a few times.

When you do manage to get it off and when you put everything back together put anti-seize lube on the threads s it will be easier to take off later should the need arise.