Are you going to keep the car?

 

I followed the Helms and it was cake. It just involves alot of time, having some good basic tools, and bending over the front of the car, alot. I can say this, I won't be so hard on myself, God forbid, if something goes wrong down the line because I performed the TB procedure with the highest level of critical thinking and to the best of my ability.

In essence, I had to do this myself because everywhere I brought it (dealers/local shops) they all had $$$$ in their eyes once I opened the hood and they observed the S/C'er sitting there. All of the quotes were f'n crazy. I was giving them all the 'stink eye' when it came time to talk money and some of the BS they were spewing. That's a whole separate rant thread in itself. haha

Haha, I've been there done that; however, I was in a condo complex and they had a crap fit if you backed your car up so that you could unload your supermarket goods. Something about your neighbor smelling the exhaust!

[QUOTE=pits200;12104278]Anyways, I'm over being frustrated, I'm financially sound and just don't want to throw in the towel after all this work.[/QUOTE]

Yeah, When the time is right, it would be a good thing to upgrade into something with a two car garage. That way the initiative to perform some of these more involved maintenance jobs can be accomplished and the savings realized/appreciated for oneself.

Thanks for the biostock tip. Haha, I had to make sure about that torque value. I quess all of those Accounting credit hours I had to endure has made me a bit anal. Ha.

 

anyways pics of said compressor, and the connection would do wounders, pics do a lot better then just words

anyways it sounds almost like the compressor was not tied up out of the way and such, so it was just dangling by the hoses, when they did the engine recently

also i just had to replace a line on mine today, cause it had developed a crack in one of the lines when i had pulled the radiator support back foward earlier this week (from my little mishap a couple of weeks ago ), and it is actually colder now , guess it was a little down on charge after 115k miles

 

Jacob, I think I'm going to keep the car, I just feel like I have too much invested into it now to just sell it and it is my travel car. My TL lease is up in August and I have no idea what I am going to do with my car situation.

 

Requested Pics of A/C

 

Wow, looking at the pic, it seems like there is suppose to be a small bolt that holds in the hose, is that true??

 

it does, even where the bolt would go is shiny clean, so it seems like there was a bolt there for a long time.

 

Looks like they forgot to put the bolt back in when putting the car back together, I agree Gnuts, I wasn't able to really get a good look till I just took that picture.

 

yeah a bolt is SUPPOSE to be holding that line on , and the funny part about it, is that you don't have to disconnect the compressor when doing pulling the engine, just unbolt it from the motor and kinda pull it out of the way

and as far as a bolt, it was probably one there, then either it worked it way out, or it is stripped out, which is part of the reason why it was working before (when you got it back) then when it stopped working is when it let all the refrigerant out (aka bolt came out)

 

btw you can kinda see that butchered compressor wiring also lol

 

Ya, that compressor wire, they couldn't find the connector for it coming from the compressor to the engine harness so they hardwired it. And that is why the A/C wasn't working the first time I took it to them, they didn't have the connector to the compressor attached and I guess they forgot to get around to it. After they hardwired it and fixed it yesterday then this happened.

So im guessing that the compressor bolt holding in the hose was taken off during the engine install even if it didn't need to be. Perhaps he wanted to get the hose out of the way a little bit more.

I don't feel the bolt worked its way out or it was stripped, I just think they forgot to put it back in.

 

but if properly charged, there would have been like 80 or so PSI in that line, (and higher after it had been heatsoaked from the engine)
and btw it looks like it is the low side A/C line, but does not really matter once the car has sat a little and got heat soaked cause the pressure would have equalized between the two sides anyways, so you are probably looking at 100 psi in that line at times

 

And trust me, the sound the hose made when it blew off was every bit of a very high psi line, it was really damn loud. I actually thought I blew off my exhaust or something it was so loud. Then I smelled the refrigerant and knew what had probably happened.

And the only reason I brought up the bolt and it not being put back in because there is a big difference in the fix compared to if it was stripped or just forgot about but you know that.

So hopefully all that needs to be done is a bolt put in and the system recharged.

 

as said might have just backed out too idk, but yeah hopefully only forgotten though

and as far as being fixed, especially depending on how far you drove after it had popped, the insides should be flushed out especially near where it had popped, you don't want dirt inside of there especially considering that the compressor is open and dirt could easily get in there, and screw up the seals and such

also as far as the bolt being stripped, depending on how it looks where that bolt goes through (it's an open ended hole iirc), you might be able to just put a backing nut on there and calingl it good, instead of having to pull the compressor, and retapping and time-serting (like a heli-coil but better/stronger) the hole

 

Why didnt they reuse your old compressor? It wouldve plugged right in.

 

They did, but I think they ripped off the connector, oh well, its working now, they put in the bolt and recharged the system.

I seafoamed the engine all 3 ways and drove it about 75 miles then switched to synthetic and seriously the car pulls like a beast. Before, Id have to downshift into 3rd going up this one hill due to they speed, now in 4th the car still has power to spare.

Please let this be the end of my car issues, thanks everyone for their help.

 

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you man, to much bad shit for one person

 

 

 

wow man. this came along a long way. Great Job.

Now put it up on a dyno.

 

Dynos are far and in between in the Pittsburgh, PA area. I'd consider spending a few bucks to dyno the car, I'd be curious what the car puts down to the wheels with the "new" engine.

 

I figured I'd be able to use 87 gas now since the engine has lower compression, but does the ECU have anything to do with this since the CL-S engine wants 91 or higher and I'm still using the CL-S ECU?? Anyone know.

 

Most likely. It doesnt really matter what the engine is, it matters what its tuned on. And technically, its tuned on 91.

if you put 87 in it, it will probably start to retard timing to keep from detonating.

 

you kinda have to experiment, anyways i would start with 89, then see how that feels

but anyways x2, with the engine mandating, what octane of fuel is really needed

but if the ecu is seeing detonation, it will retard timing and such, so just make sure your knock sensor is working fully

 

Well for the people who were curious, I was able to get the UR crank pulley on today without much of a hitch. I used the old belts that I used on my 3.2 engine with the UR pulley. Only thing is, the power steering belt makes a slight squeek at the extreme end of the turning radius.

Also, there is an auto tensioner on the Ody engine, you get a 19mm socket and down by the crank pulley, you turn the 19mm extension and this releases the pressure on the belts. I think this is actually a better method than the j32 engine with the 14mm wrench.

Makes me wonder why the shop said they couldn't do this in the first place.

 

belt needs to be slightly tighter then, but considering on mine, the tensioner is basically max out (with the belts that came with the pulley originally), you are probably running into the same issue there too

anyways you should not be holding the wheel at max lock, for any length of time , it burns/heats up the fluid real fast, so if you are not actively turning around or something, just gotta relax your grip a little, so it can come off of the lock

 

pits, just curious, how did you get the factory crank pulley off?

I used the starter method to get my factory sized UR off when I did the TB and it cranked loose on the second blip of the starter.

When I put it back on, I just placed a nice sized pry bar between the flywheel teeth and braced it against the rear cross member and torqued it down with no problems.

 

Fries, I know not to hold the steering wheel at max turn, I was just doing that as a test for the belt length.

Zeta, as for the crank bolt, I did the same method as you. Braced a pipe with my 1/2 wrench at 4 O'clock, pulled the 15 amp ignition coil fuse from the drivers side bracket and cranked the car for a second or two, and boom, worked like a charm.

As for putting it back on, I just hit it a few times with my impact wrench which says it does about 400 ft/lbs.

I love my crank pulley, possibly one of my favorite mods, the car just feels lighter with it on.