Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

From what i have been noticing, CL clutches seem to go out relatively earlier than other cars. Obviously some people have not been having that issue, but it seems to me like the majority do. My clutch is going out at 53,000 miles and was slipping before i bought it. My old CL's Clutch completely separated from the driveshaft at 57,000 miles as well.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Mine has 101k miles on it and is fine. Sometimes it feels like it slips on hard gear changes, but I blame that on driver error.

BTW, the clutch isnt directly attached to the driveshafts.

Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure? The Mechanic at the dealer said it is, but i guess were talking about the dealer, the place that knows everything they say they do

silver6speed

Im assuming this is an issue on most if not all the Cl 6mt clutches. I have it also now at 85k miles. So all u low mile ppl be forewarned.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I still dont have this problem. Im getting the clutch replaced soon, but not because of wear. I need to to support my power goals.

silver6speed

Yea that is kind of odd. My car was babied for many years also.

silver6speed

When i brought my car in for the 75k mile maintenance to Libertyville Acura dealer, i pointed out this issue to them. They told me they didnt notice it and everything is normal. After reading this i went back to get some part numbers to fix my door and brought up the issue again. Told him alot of ppl are having this issue and what exactly needs to be replaced. He looked at my car again and still says there is nothing wrong and that they have never had a single person do this part replacement in the last 7 years. This just proves to me that Acura refuses to diagnose this problem and fix it. Everyone that goes in and complains is shooed away like me and told its normal. They really must think all ppl are retards. I had him give me my door part numbers and told him goodbye i will never be back here again. Hopefully Pauly Acura, Palatine, or Schaumburg is better. Avoid libertyville Acura at all costs. Especially avoid the body shop at that dealer. Worst body shop i have ever seen. Plus when i got my car back from the 75k service i have 2 big scrapes on my rear bumper and i noticed my trunk dsnt open now when i push the key fob or inside button. I had no issues with my trunk for 7 years before i brought it into Acura. I will be filing a report with the better business bureau on monday. They refuse to be accountable for the damage they caused and deny they did it. I noticed they washed my car even tho i said dont, and whoever washed my car didnt put his signature on the card so i am wondering if he is the one that hit my bumper with another car. Sorry for the long ass post.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

^^^ that's why warranties are BS... and I will always be skeptical to buy a new car for that very reason... warrantys ARE BULLSHIT

there's always a CATCH which is WHY it's called a WARRANTY.... and not a GUARANTEE..

2 completely different obligations

but if u wanna get ur shit fixed... go for a test drive with one of the mechanics... talk it up a bit, be a nice guy and ask him if he can help YOU out if you HELP HIM OUT...

give him a 50.. now he loves you and will tell acura that UR CAR IS FUCKED and need this this this and that...

CHEAP investment for a pretty much sure thing

Let the $ do the convincing... wtf will the mechanic care... more work for him and he's not paying for the parts so he'll definitely do it

jmttorres

I have been having the same problem with my clutch for the past 50,000 miles or so. It was normal up until then. I took it in to the Acura dealership and they replaced the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate. It was very expensive to have them do that! It did NOT fix the problem. I should have known better to just take it to my mechanic friend. He and I will be replacing the master/slave cylinder shortly after the new year. Hopefully that will work. I'll reply back after it's done.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Im interested if the clutch mater and slave cylinder fixes ur problem. I have this issue also. First dealer i asked to look at it said my clutch is fine they noticed nothing. Second place i brought it to i mentioned the clutch and slave master cylinders. they said those were fine but my pp has some wear but is not slipping yet. I dont really want to replace clutch yet. Ill probably replace the clutch master and slave cylinders since i already have the parts.

jmttorres

I've changed out the master/slave cylinder and the clutch damper. I am still having the same problem. Next I will try the release bearing as others have suggested. So, to sum it up, I have replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the clutch damper. I must be crazy to keep going, but this problem is driving me nuts. Any other suggestions??

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

damn I was hoping the clutch master and slave cylinder would solve this

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Still noone has figured this isssue out?

Moodist

iTrader: (2)

I read something where the 3rd gen TL cars having the same issues, I'll have to search and find it again.

kbc5960

Sorry folks, I've been meaning to get back and post on the long term results. I replaced the master/slave cylinders on my clutch. Initially it seemed like the problem went away, but the problem is definitely still there.

It does seem to be getting worse over time. I'm just stumped on what could be causing this. If I get some time this weekend, I'm going to bleed the line. It's very quick to do.

I'm wondering if somehow a little bit of air is getting into the line over time.

It just doesn't make sense. All I need to do is take the car up to red line, shift to the next gear, and then the clutch looses pressure on the following shift. Pump the clutch a few times, pressure regains and the clutch pressure returns back to normal.

But conservative driving = no issues with the clutch losing pressure...

Allout

Sounds similar to what I went through. I thought I had a bad master or slave. Turned out to be a bad pressure plate. I think the self adjusting mechanism went bad and then my clutch progressively got worse. When we opened it up, my flywheel and friction disk were glazed but I had plenty of friction material. Looked like the pressure plate just wasn't clamping fully. Replaced the pressure plate, friction disk and CT flywheel insert and all is good again.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

The pressure plate sounds about right. That is something Acura told me had signs of wear/damage. Dont have any cash left to fix it atm but i think Ill go the oem route with the p2r disc maybe.

Moodist

iTrader: (2)

Check this out, all the same issue. Nothing concrete as to what the fix is though. Some people said master cylinder, some say fluid flush, some say clutch replacement. Does the clutch use the same pneumatic system as the brakes?

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/clutch-question-754554/#post11910034
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...t=bleed+clutch
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...t=bleed+clutch
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/possible-clutch-problems-747965/
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=750672

rp_guy

here is my story for today, i'm sure this is related:

was running fairly hard tonight, and had the typical heavy clutch after a 1-2, 2-3 shift. maybe 10-15 mins later, i had it going in 2nd at about 6000rpm, held it there for a good 15sec, and then redlined. a car turned in front of me, so i stepped on the clutch, and accidentally bumped off the rev limiter a few times.

after that, i couldn't get it back into gear. there was no clutch pedal pressure (absolutely none) until about 1cm from the floor, and it was extremely heavy at that point. however, i still couldn't get it back into gear. stepped on it a few times (that's the typical fix for the heavy clutch), but that didn't work.

stepped on it a few more times, still nothing, then i waited a little bit, turned off the car, turned it on, and it came back as if nothing had happened.

i think it's still either the throwout or SAC (pressure plate). something doesn't seem to clamp properly

kbc5960

Wow very interesting rp_guy.

BTW - I ordered a braided stainless steel line to replace the OEM clutch rubber hose. I'm also going to bypass the Clutch Damper. I'm thinking it's possible the rubber hose is expanding/flexing during aggressive shifting. Maybe not, but just one more thing to rule out before spending big bucks on tearing the clutch apart.

For more info on the OEM rubber clutch hose and Clutch Damper, see this thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/clutch-damper-bypass-cls-6-a-483022/

rp_guy

had my cdd delete and braided line done a long time ago, so that's not it. but you won't be disappointed with that mod

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i've had clutch replaced at 63k miles due to the slipage. i changed everything disc plate and bearings but no flywheel. im at 82k now and
im having this issue for a good 2k miles on new clutch and i have never seen that issue b4. my clutch already slipped couple time after i tried to do small burnout and i think that might be pressure plate causing this hard clutch. i really do. i was hoping that is master/slave cylinder but it seems to be more expensive. if i have to do the clutch again i'll do it but dunno if i should go oem again or not bc if you are already up there is better to get everything changed, flywheel ,bearings, disc and plate. i was lil scaref that my clutch is going out but i see you ppl are having this issue for a long time and its still driveable

jmttorres

Hmm...Just noticed this the other day. Not sure how this ties in to everything. If I rev the engine to say 5000 RPM the clutch pedal is very easy to push in. When the RPMs drop back down to idle it's about twice as hard to push in. Does everybody else get these results or are they unique to cars with the "hard clutch" problem? If only people having issues with their clutch have this feature then this may be something to look at.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

when i rev it about 5k it happens but when i rip it the engagment point is so low... it is not right for sure... lets check 3rd gen TL they have same trannys and clutches the might discovered it already

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

the 3rd gen tl's have the same issue. They havnt figured it out yet either according to the thread. As for whether this is normal, no it is not normal. I bought my cls6 brand new and I never had this issue for the first 6 years of ownership. Like i said before but i think it is a wear issue with the pressure plate. My next purchase will be either a cm clutch or the stock with p2r disc but that will probably have to wait till next year.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

same here i've never experienced anything like that b4 and im sure its not normal... also my clutch is slipping so im like 90% is bad clutch and 70% its a pressure plate

jmttorres

If this turns out to be the same issue for everybody, maybe my failures can save others some money. It's been pretty expensive for me so far. That said, here's what I've done. Acura replaced my clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate. The last time I went in for service I asked if they replaced the release bearing as well. In their notes they showed that they did indeed replace the release bearing. I've personally replaced the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the clutch damper on the hydraulic system. So, for my car, it has to be something other than those things unless my Acura dealership is misrepreseting their work or there were faulty replacement parts somewhere.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

WOW thanks for that reply... and keep us posted

Moodist

iTrader: (2)

Any updates? It feels as if the issue is getting worse for me.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

this !

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/113-removal-slave-cylinder-check-valve-734300/

im like 90% sure this is solution. it happens only when i shift hard at red line and there is a bit slipage bc of this check valve ima do this asap and i will let you fuys know.

jmttorres

Just an update. I thought that I'd take my car into the dealership to see if they could find anything. I explained everything that had been happening. They had it for over a week. In short, they said they couldn't find anything wrong.

For StreetKA: I seem to remember that the TLs use a Check Valve on the Slave and our CLs use a Clutch Damper which is separate. I could totally be off though. Let us know what you find.

Next I am going to change out the lines and change the hydraulic fluid. Don't know what else to do. Anymore ideas?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

did acura put in a brand new pressure plate? I was told by someone that the hard clutch is signs of wear/damage to the pressure plate but not sure.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

We have both.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

hmm has anyone removed both on a cls6? i have an extra slave cylinder right here with me I could use.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Both of mine are gone.

kbc5960

Ok I finally got around to replacing my clutch. I replace it with a clutchmasters stage 3. I have driven for 800 miles on the new clutch.

Very happy.

The "Hard Clutch" issue is definitely resolved. The clutchmasters clutch takes a bit more effort to depress (it has stronger clamping power). The biggest gain (other than the clutch now being consistent), is the revving of the engine.

Since the flywheel is lighter than OEM, the engine is more free running/revving. This makes a HUGE difference.

Honestly, I have a CAI, and headers, but this clutch has made the most noticeable difference in engine performance. So smooth...

Anyway: 2 things...

1) If you have the "hard clutch" problem, you will need to replace it. I tried everything else... Nothing worked...

2) Aftermarket clutchmasters stage 3 is an excellent aftermarket replacement option. Not only will the clutch clamp harder (grabs better), but you will also notice a major change in engine smoothness and performance.