Guide: Valentine 1 hardwire install w/ pix; ShawnS's guide
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Suzuka Master
Joined: Jul 2001
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Guide: Valentine 1 hardwire install w/ pix; ShawnS's guide
I just did my install today (I'm very late on the V1 bandwagon!!) and I used Shawn S's guide, however I noticed he didn't have any pictures, so I took the liberty of reposting his guide but this time with pics!
I'll just post all my pics I took at the bottom, so you can all read and follow along. (I'm too lazy to write descriptions for each pic, since the guide made it all so easy; thanks Shawn!)
Mounted, keep it level!
Bad pic, but you get the idea. Route the wire along the top, I tucked it into where the fabric meets the glass.
This is where Shawn says to splice the wire into the #12 fuse (check your owners manual to confirm)
The ground wire:
Using zip ties to keep it tidy!
I tucked in the wire here, works for me.
Hopefully these pics will help other noobs like me!
I'll just post all my pics I took at the bottom, so you can all read and follow along. (I'm too lazy to write descriptions for each pic, since the guide made it all so easy; thanks Shawn!)
I have my V1 unit mounted to the left of the rear view mirror.
I believe some people tapped into the power from the mirror circuit, but this is what I did to “hard wire” my V1 with the remote display:
Pull off the A-Pillar trim piece going from the dashboard to the headliner (no fasteners, it just pulls off).
Open the cover to the fuse box on the driver’s side.
Fish the wires from the V1, across the headliner and down the post to the fuse box.
I used some blue poster putty to keep the wire from falling out of its hidden place above the headliner.
Press the A-Pillar trim piece back on being careful not to pinch any wires.
I connected the power to the fuse box (#12 fuse).
It is the circuit for the windshield wipers and it is only “HOT” when the key is “ON”.
Strip the RED V1 power wire about 3/8 of an inch.
Pull the #12 fuse out.
Fan the wire out a bit so it is kind of flat.
Insert the bare wire into one side of the fuse socket (doesn’t matter which side).
Be careful that there are no loose strands of wire sticking out anywhere.
Replace the fuse; it will hold the wire securely in place.
Connect the ground wire to the screw terminal on top of the fuse box opening. (See photo)
If you have the remote display like I do, it is only slightly more difficult.
The power connections are the same, but instead of power directly to the V1 there is a small junction box that distributes power to both pieces.
They are all plug-in phone type connectors and no cutting/splicing is required.
If you mount the remote display on the column where I have mine, be sure to use “zip-ties” to keep the wires away from any parts that move when you turn the wheel.
Your V1 unit should now turn ON/OFF with the ignition whenever you start or stop the car.
I hope this helps you out.
Shawn S"
I believe some people tapped into the power from the mirror circuit, but this is what I did to “hard wire” my V1 with the remote display:
Pull off the A-Pillar trim piece going from the dashboard to the headliner (no fasteners, it just pulls off).
Open the cover to the fuse box on the driver’s side.
Fish the wires from the V1, across the headliner and down the post to the fuse box.
I used some blue poster putty to keep the wire from falling out of its hidden place above the headliner.
Press the A-Pillar trim piece back on being careful not to pinch any wires.
I connected the power to the fuse box (#12 fuse).
It is the circuit for the windshield wipers and it is only “HOT” when the key is “ON”.
Strip the RED V1 power wire about 3/8 of an inch.
Pull the #12 fuse out.
Fan the wire out a bit so it is kind of flat.
Insert the bare wire into one side of the fuse socket (doesn’t matter which side).
Be careful that there are no loose strands of wire sticking out anywhere.
Replace the fuse; it will hold the wire securely in place.
Connect the ground wire to the screw terminal on top of the fuse box opening. (See photo)
If you have the remote display like I do, it is only slightly more difficult.
The power connections are the same, but instead of power directly to the V1 there is a small junction box that distributes power to both pieces.
They are all plug-in phone type connectors and no cutting/splicing is required.
If you mount the remote display on the column where I have mine, be sure to use “zip-ties” to keep the wires away from any parts that move when you turn the wheel.
Your V1 unit should now turn ON/OFF with the ignition whenever you start or stop the car.
I hope this helps you out.
Shawn S"
Bad pic, but you get the idea. Route the wire along the top, I tucked it into where the fabric meets the glass.
This is where Shawn says to splice the wire into the #12 fuse (check your owners manual to confirm)
The ground wire:
Using zip ties to keep it tidy!
I tucked in the wire here, works for me.
Hopefully these pics will help other noobs like me!
In the 2nd pic it looks like the rear view mirror is blocking the rear sensor completely. That's not good. Needs a clear shot of the road in front & behind.
FYI to this:
If you don't use the remote display, the hard wire for the older Passport 7500(can be bought for like $9) is very easy to hook up. Simple 2 wire hookup power & ground, & the wire is a bit smaller then the V1's & is all black phone cord up untill the ends.
FYI to this:
If you don't use the remote display, the hard wire for the older Passport 7500(can be bought for like $9) is very easy to hook up. Simple 2 wire hookup power & ground, & the wire is a bit smaller then the V1's & is all black phone cord up untill the ends.
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I've put a copy of this in the FAQ forum:
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/wanted-oem-exhaust-173700/
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/wanted-oem-exhaust-173700/
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