Originally Posted by pits200

This isn't a joke, whoever is familiar with my car situations knows that I've been dealing with a lot these past few months.

Well the ordeal continues.... Today driving home from Hilton Head, SC my car stops shifting on the highway and my wife tells me something is shooting out from under my car.

Well I pull over and find that my transmission is pretty much on fire and the dipstick is boneeee dry.

So yes, while my engine was being replaced, the dealership forgot to put transmission fluid back into the car. The car made it about 1,700 miles and now the transmission is destroyed.

I seriously have no more words to express my emotions now.

Originally Posted by pits200

He told me the car definitely had fluid in it when it left or else the car wouldn't have run.

Originally Posted by pits200

It's official. I'm not turning this into a sale thread but I'm selling the ride for 3k with all mods. If someone wants to spend another 3k and make it a six speed they should have a fast ride with the 3.5 motor in the car.

Originally Posted by pits200

Eh, I don't typically buy new cars, especially a bmw because of the markup. I also put mucho miles on the car like I did with the CL and the year warranty means nothing, its the mileage warranty that I need to worry about.

Oh well, that's neither here nor there. I'll just drive the TL till August when the lease is up then I'll pull the trigger on the new ride.

So what's your verdict on this Civic? What do you think happened to the tranny? You're always good for a few insights.

Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01

yea man if I had all the headaches you have had all in that short span of time I'd be questioning everything as well.

I think u should get rid of the car tho since it's been touched by so many goofballs, and get a different car so u can start on a clean slate.

Also it's in ur bet interest to have a person at the dealership or personal mechanic that u can personally go to to talk about ur ride/ issues.

I did not do that with my previous car and had 3 time more problems than you have had with ur CL.

It's was a 94 ford probe modded up the ass, KLZE motor swap etc. a frigging nightmare.

all because I wasn't a little proactive on finding a person/place to bring my car in the event of an anomaly.

So my advise would be to line up someone u trust and know does good work. You'd have better odds finding this person if the car has been out for more than 4 years.... then the likelyhood of them knowing your particular car would be very good and thus they're going to do very good work on ur car.

Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01

yea my dad got the fusion v6 when it came out and hasn't had a problem with it yet. 90000kms and going strong...

and for a 3.0 220hp motor. that thing pulls with its 6 speed trans... damn ford and there 6 speed autos.

the taurus x is AS FAST AS A TYPE S CL..

I raced my buddy's dad's and that thing stuck around to my suprise.... ford packs the PUNCH in their motors.

all of which are UNDERRATED (don't believe me??? check the ford 5.0 rating from the factory... and then go see a dyno chart of the same car)... whereas honda is overrated if anything

Originally Posted by http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=75062

The whole concept of a fixed percentage drivetrain loss in evaluating chassis dyno tests is one of the most absurd things i've ever heard of in my experience as a powertrain engineer, and is the motivation behind this post.

First, a primer: energy (or in the case relevant to this discussion -- power) cannot be created or destroyed. Simple enough? Where then, does that power that is transmitted from the crank, to the wheels, and ultimately to the road, go? Most of it goes to friction and therefore heat.

Second, an illustration: For argument's sake, take a stock 90HP TDI, and we'll arbitrarily say that it has a 15% driveline loss. That means that the engine would be developing about 104HP (90/1.15) at the crank. The loss through the drivetrain was 14HP (104-90). Now, you do a bunch of engine mods without touching the drivetrain, and you now measure, say, 135HP at the wheels. Adding the customary 15% to refer back to the crank, you get 155HP, but the loss through the drivetrain is now 20HP, a difference of 6HP, WHEN NOTHING HAS BEEN TOUCHED THERE!

Do you now see the absurdity of this concept?

Firstly, may I submit that 2WD vehicles with manual transmissions have very good mechanical efficiencies, as evidenced by the fact that 2 quarts of non-pressurized, non-circulating oil is sufficient to keep the entire transmission cool and lubricated. In fact, to attach a number to it, manual transmissions are usually over 90% efficient, and many over 95%. That implies a loss through the transmission of between 5.3-11%. Even the best automatic transmissions with lock-up TCs achieve between 80-85% efficiencies.

Secondly, may I submit that contrary to popular (mis)conception, flywheel weights, rim weights/diameters and tire type (should) have very little contribution to the HP numbers on a rolling road dyno. Heavy flywheels and rims act as inertial dampers but do not destroy or create energy, nor transform it to heat, as would have to happen to if it is to result in a greater or lesser HP value on the dyno. Tires will shed energy in the form of heat by the simple contact with the ground and also though the flexing of the treads and sidewalls, but this amount is negligable in the scheme of things that it is generally ignored unless you are an engineer for an OEM, race car team or tire manufacturer. More on inertia in a moment.

Thirdly, I hope the above underscores that an accurate measurement of drivetrain loss cannot be overgeneralized. For one, it is not constant across the entire measurement range within a given run. In fact, friction increases roughly linearly with speed. In automotive engineering speak, this is quantified by a parameter called the FMEP (friction mean effective pressure), and although it's is not called that, it is manifested in many engine graphs you may read without even realising it. Frictional losses are different at 2000RPM to 4000 RPM, etc., etc. You cannot, therefore, equate the drivetrain loss of a car whose engine is turning at 8000RPM at the maximum rated power to one turning at 4000RPM, because on the basis of the RPM alone, frictional losses at 8000RPM are roughly double that at 4000RPM.

That said, yes, it's true: gear selection when performing a rolling road dyno DOES have an impact on HP, but it is not usually borne in dyno results, because the difference is small and within the inevitable variation from test-to-test and also measurement error.

Further, engine/driveline design considerations mean that there is a wide variance in frictional losses between different cars; the comparison of mechanical efficiencies between manual- and automatic transmissions have already been discussed above. Cars with AWD, automatic trannies, and large-displacement/many-cylinder engines will tend to have higher frictional losses than small-displacement, 2WD, manuals.

Finally, The importance of "motored" or coast-down tests in a dyno evaluation is important and needs to be stresssed, because that is what accounts for your true frictional losses and balances the inertial "ledger sheet" of the different driveline components, including the wheels and tires. The energy that is absorbed in the form of inertia in the flywheel/wheels/tires, etc. is accounted for ("given back," to oversimplify) in this coast-down, and when doing a street (i.e. butt) dyno, also accounts for the very important aerodynamic drag.

Originally Posted by civicdrivr

I wish Hillsville wasn't so far away. I would've told you to tow it here so its at least in a safe spot.

Originally Posted by civicdrivr

Are you opposed to a manual transmission equipped car? Id honestly go for an 03-05 Accord coupe 6MT or an 06-07 sedan 6MT. They are low maintenance, frugal, a pretty damn comfortable. I prefer the interior on the Accord over the CL honestly.

Originally Posted by Jacobpockros

Why don't you just make them fix it?

Originally Posted by Jacobpockros

Why don't you just make them fix it?