FYI for those of you changing rotors
08-22-2004, 10:16 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Kansas City
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FYI for those of you changing rotors
Just got through installing a set of Rotora slotted rotors and Axxis pads on the front and thought I'd drop a couple of tips that I didn't find when I did my before install research.
- Getting those two bloody screws that hold the rotor to the hub wasn't happening without a impact nut driver even with the lug nuts reinstalled and tightened down. Sears was out of stock of course and I was impacient so I gave it a shot and when it wasn't coming out I just drilled the heads off of those screws. They appear to be metric but if you enlarge the threads slightly with a 1/4" x 20 tap you can pick up 1/4" x 3/4" replacement screws which are easily found at Home Depot.
- After beating on the old rotors and having a generally nasty time getting those suckers off I realized the rotors have two threaded holes you could stick a bolt in to crank the rotor right off. Damn! Should have paid a little more attention and would have saved me some fustration on that one! Didn't use them so I can't say what exact size they are.
- When you take the old pads out there are metal shims that will come out with them. Make sure you remove the shims and install them on the new brake pads.
- The bolts on the caliper are size 17 metric.
- There was some discussion on if the brakes should be bled after a job like this. You don't need to bleed the brakes unless you disconect one of the brake lines or something else to open that closed system up. I just used a giant C-clamp to compress the piston in the caliper so no air entered the system and thus no bleeding was necessary.
Hope this helps someone!
03' CL-S 6sp Manual
- Tinted Windows
- Alpine CDA-7998 Head Unit
- 2x Sony Mobile ES 1-ohm stable amps
- Infinity 12" sealed sub
- PIAA Hi Beams
- Dunlop SP Sport 9000's
- Rotora Slotted Rotors
- Axxis Brake Pads
- Hardwired V-1
- Getting those two bloody screws that hold the rotor to the hub wasn't happening without a impact nut driver even with the lug nuts reinstalled and tightened down. Sears was out of stock of course and I was impacient so I gave it a shot and when it wasn't coming out I just drilled the heads off of those screws. They appear to be metric but if you enlarge the threads slightly with a 1/4" x 20 tap you can pick up 1/4" x 3/4" replacement screws which are easily found at Home Depot.
- After beating on the old rotors and having a generally nasty time getting those suckers off I realized the rotors have two threaded holes you could stick a bolt in to crank the rotor right off. Damn! Should have paid a little more attention and would have saved me some fustration on that one! Didn't use them so I can't say what exact size they are.
- When you take the old pads out there are metal shims that will come out with them. Make sure you remove the shims and install them on the new brake pads.
- The bolts on the caliper are size 17 metric.
- There was some discussion on if the brakes should be bled after a job like this. You don't need to bleed the brakes unless you disconect one of the brake lines or something else to open that closed system up. I just used a giant C-clamp to compress the piston in the caliper so no air entered the system and thus no bleeding was necessary.
Hope this helps someone!
03' CL-S 6sp Manual
- Tinted Windows
- Alpine CDA-7998 Head Unit
- 2x Sony Mobile ES 1-ohm stable amps
- Infinity 12" sealed sub
- PIAA Hi Beams
- Dunlop SP Sport 9000's
- Rotora Slotted Rotors
- Axxis Brake Pads
- Hardwired V-1
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