Front Axle Help/Advice
Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: ATL
Front Axle Help/Advice
I originally had shuddering issues/steering wheel vibration issues when accelerating a little over a year ago, couldn't figure out what was wrong. Got on this forum, did some searching, and figured out that it was probably my front axles (which was a huge sigh of relief for me because I thought that it was my POS tranny). Got both front axles replaced, and the problem disappeared, and my CL was fun to drive again.
Fast forward to August of 2012, and the same symptoms, namely shuddering when accelerating + some vibration in my steering wheel when accelerating are noticeable again.
I have read that many folks have had issues with their axles, and that when replacing them one must make sure to get a weight balanced axle (or something of that sort). I am not sure what my mechanic put on my car, but they are definitely NOT holding up only a little over a year after installation.
I read in one thread about this company called Raxles (http://www.raxles.com/) and I emailed them. It would b $475 to get two new axles from them shipped to my house. I have no issues paying for this, I just don't want to be replacing these axles on a yearly basis. Anyone have these axles running on their car?
Also, what else should I replace when I am replacing my axles? Is there anything else I should get done while I am doing that to save on labor, etc? My car is a 2001 CL Type S with 155k on it, second transmission.
Any and all help is appreciated, thanks in advance guys.
Fast forward to August of 2012, and the same symptoms, namely shuddering when accelerating + some vibration in my steering wheel when accelerating are noticeable again.
I have read that many folks have had issues with their axles, and that when replacing them one must make sure to get a weight balanced axle (or something of that sort). I am not sure what my mechanic put on my car, but they are definitely NOT holding up only a little over a year after installation.
I read in one thread about this company called Raxles (http://www.raxles.com/) and I emailed them. It would b $475 to get two new axles from them shipped to my house. I have no issues paying for this, I just don't want to be replacing these axles on a yearly basis. Anyone have these axles running on their car?
Also, what else should I replace when I am replacing my axles? Is there anything else I should get done while I am doing that to save on labor, etc? My car is a 2001 CL Type S with 155k on it, second transmission.
Any and all help is appreciated, thanks in advance guys.
Replaced my OEM axles with Raxles back in Oct 2010, IIRC and have put 20K+ on them since with no issues. I was going to go the popular route of buying the low cost axles from the local Autozone/Advance; however, after further research, I found American made Raxles and decided to funnel my money there.
I did not want to have to replace them again and wanted to do it right the first time. Although, there are those whom have the low cost axles and they get more than twelve months of utility from them.
It's a roll of the dice I guess.
If you had your original OEM cores, you could have knocked off about $160 from the $475 Raxles quoted. They only take original cores unfortunetly. The axles will have the balancing dampers if the were present on the OEM's, mine did for the six speed. Though I am not sure about the automatic.
At 155K, an example of other areas to check/address in the front, if everything is original, would be:
Upper/lower balljoints
Wheel bearings
Inner/Outer LCA bushings
Radius Rod bushings
Brake Pads/Rotors. Maybe even the caliper.
Struts and there supporting rubber components, including the rubber spring isolators.
Sway bar endlinks and bushings
Check the Intermediate shaft/axle on the passenger side for wear/play/leaking.
Left and right axle seals, at the tranny for leaking
Motor mounts
Upper/Lower radiator hoses
It all depends on how long you decide to keep the car.
I did not want to have to replace them again and wanted to do it right the first time. Although, there are those whom have the low cost axles and they get more than twelve months of utility from them.
It's a roll of the dice I guess. If you had your original OEM cores, you could have knocked off about $160 from the $475 Raxles quoted. They only take original cores unfortunetly. The axles will have the balancing dampers if the were present on the OEM's, mine did for the six speed. Though I am not sure about the automatic.
At 155K, an example of other areas to check/address in the front, if everything is original, would be:
Upper/lower balljoints
Wheel bearings
Inner/Outer LCA bushings
Radius Rod bushings
Brake Pads/Rotors. Maybe even the caliper.
Struts and there supporting rubber components, including the rubber spring isolators.
Sway bar endlinks and bushings
Check the Intermediate shaft/axle on the passenger side for wear/play/leaking.
Left and right axle seals, at the tranny for leaking
Motor mounts
Upper/Lower radiator hoses
It all depends on how long you decide to keep the car.
While the knuckle is out I would replace the wheel bearing and lower ball joints.
Definitly try something differnt besides $70 axles.
I wish I could take that advise.
At 1500 miles my inner joint passenger side was garbage.I bought a axle and before I installed it I started hearing the drivers outer joint clicking backing up turning at 2000 miles.
I'm going to buy another cheap drivers axle and install both again
Definitly try something differnt besides $70 axles.
I wish I could take that advise.
At 1500 miles my inner joint passenger side was garbage.I bought a axle and before I installed it I started hearing the drivers outer joint clicking backing up turning at 2000 miles.
I'm going to buy another cheap drivers axle and install both again
Thread Starter
Cruisin'
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: ATL
Replaced my OEM axles with Raxles back in Oct 2010, IIRC and have put 20K+ on them since with no issues. I was going to go the popular route of buying the low cost axles from the local Autozone/Advance; however, after further research, I found American made Raxles and decided to funnel my money there.
I did not want to have to replace them again and wanted to do it right the first time. Although, there are those whom have the low cost axles and they get more than twelve months of utility from them. It's a roll of the dice I guess.
If you had your original OEM cores, you could have knocked off about $160 from the $475 Raxles quoted. They only take original cores unfortunetly. The axles will have the balancing dampers if the were present on the OEM's, mine did for the six speed. Though I am not sure about the automatic.
At 155K, an example of other areas to check/address in the front, if everything is original, would be:
Upper/lower balljoints
Wheel bearings
Inner/Outer LCA bushings
Radius Rod bushings
Brake Pads/Rotors. Maybe even the caliper.
Struts and there supporting rubber components, including the rubber spring isolators.
Sway bar endlinks and bushings
Check the Intermediate shaft/axle on the passenger side for wear/play/leaking.
Left and right axle seals, at the tranny for leaking
Motor mounts
Upper/Lower radiator hoses
It all depends on how long you decide to keep the car.
I did not want to have to replace them again and wanted to do it right the first time. Although, there are those whom have the low cost axles and they get more than twelve months of utility from them.
It's a roll of the dice I guess. If you had your original OEM cores, you could have knocked off about $160 from the $475 Raxles quoted. They only take original cores unfortunetly. The axles will have the balancing dampers if the were present on the OEM's, mine did for the six speed. Though I am not sure about the automatic.
At 155K, an example of other areas to check/address in the front, if everything is original, would be:
Upper/lower balljoints
Wheel bearings
Inner/Outer LCA bushings
Radius Rod bushings
Brake Pads/Rotors. Maybe even the caliper.
Struts and there supporting rubber components, including the rubber spring isolators.
Sway bar endlinks and bushings
Check the Intermediate shaft/axle on the passenger side for wear/play/leaking.
Left and right axle seals, at the tranny for leaking
Motor mounts
Upper/Lower radiator hoses
It all depends on how long you decide to keep the car.
Thanks again for the answers!
On these cars (in my experience) you will mainly find that peripheral stuff starts to go. Which are normal maintenance items anyway.Review the thread below and post #8 with the attached links. You will find discussions in regards to timing belt, Moog LCA bushings and Radius Rod bushings:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/what-else-change-timing-belt-replacement-863447/
Good Luck.
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