friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

there are centrifugal weights on some clutches which will do that, but not the cl though, i am 99% sure (mainly a diesel engine application thing, but there are exceptions though)

and anyways almost by what you are describing, it might be a bent/warped pressure plate assembly or something, and when it revs, the "warped" section is moving fast enough, that is kinda causing the throwout bearing to litially "float" there, which could easily cause a low pedal, that does not sometimes return

but also is it a hard or soft clutch which you are complaining about , cause you mentioned a hard pedal earlier

anyways who did the clutch before??? you or a shop???, might have been bent in the installation process, and finally showing up
also was the pressure plate replaced with another one at the same time, or was a friction disk just put in, just trying to get full history here
but you also might have an hydrualic problem also idk

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

i dont know but one post from hard clutch thread...(not my)

but here you go

my clutch did a shop all parts was oem and a changed everything but no flywheel... alot of ppl have this problem as you can read the thread not only me so im sure my clutch was done properly. flywheel was resurfaced at the shop who knows a stuff like this it took them 3 hours bc its dual mass.

i think that may be two other problems the hard clutch and my slippage from time to time.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

now we are getting somewhere lol, but geneally speaking though, with a good resurfacing job, the flywheel is basically good as new, so no issues except for the fact that thery took 3 hours to do it, normally like a 15-20 minute process, 30 at most
but that is also why resurfaceing a dualmass is pointless, with the amount of time you try getting it perfect (hopefully), easier to just go get a new one
but i do know the the stock flywheel is has two steps on it, one is where the disk grabs/holds onto, and the other one is where the pressure plate bolts to, and if those two are not machined the same amount (taking off the same thickness), you can easily get a slipping clutch then, from the pressure plate not being able to apply full pressure to the friction disk, cause it is too far out of reach now

and normally clutches take some force at first to apply, and now because the clutch disk is too far away the spring's fingers (it is like a stamped spring btw, let me find a picture shortly), are at a shaper angle now, which is harder to intially compress

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

btw a proper flywhell grinder http://www.kwik-way.com/products/PDF...5000_10000.pdf

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

and btw the slipping has only shown up once the flywheel has worn down a little

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

a stepped flywheel design, ty 04accordcpe for the pic (black portion is the friction surface, where the shiny outter ring is where the pressure plate mounts

then also in the pressure plate (the white thing), tose blank fingers in the center of it are part of the spring itself, which puts the pressure on the friction disk

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

a good picture of a clutch spring

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

bleed the system. see if that helps ur low pedal problem

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

if i dump the clutch from 1st to 2nd it grabs very very low i would lowest as possible.
when i floor it on 1st or 2nd and change gear normaly and easy the problem still apears but not that bad... i can drive like that but i would like have peace of mind that i go to Canada ill make it without a problem. i do drive calm now and everything is perfectly fine...

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

simple the clutch has time to fully grab (or more) during those calm shifts, compared to when you shift hard and such, and you probably also are able to rev match better too, when not gunning it around

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

this clutch was never able to do burnout from 2nd gear NEVER... the slipage isnt that bad yet but the hard clutch makes me think if some day i wont be able to put into a gear.

rajca says to remove slave and bleed the system do you agree with that? i've heard that if you remove damper, clutch gets worse faster

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

bleeding would never hurt, but if there was air in there the pedal be soft and low, not hard and low, so i don't think that would be the issue though
and as far as being able to get it into gear, no worries there, there are ways to drive with a non-disengaging clutch, but like you gotta turn off the motor at every stoplight and such though, then shifting you have to rev match it, then gently but quickly get it into the next gear (aka a pain in the ass to drive but dueable though)
more the issue i see is how it is slipping and what if that gets too bad, and slips too much, can't go anywhere then

as far as the checkvalve, making clutch go bad sooner, all depends on your driving, and people who normally do that mod, also drive hard on their clutch, so yeah it is going to wear out sooner, but more from the driver itself then anything
if you drive like a normal person, that checkvalve should never be an issue, it's when people drive hard they notice the valve

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

removing the check valve and damper wont make the clutch go bad sooner. if anything it will extend the life bc its not slipping before it grabs. search the 3rd gen tl side for that

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

true, but also people doing that, are also dropping there clutch alot more often though, with normal driving, that check valve does not matter

but still 30k is kinda early for a clutch to go bad, something is not right with the setup itself (i think the flywheel was not machined proper) or he is just hard on the sucker