Juker008

Well today I spent the day installing my headers.

I spent a weekend grinding out the welds. The welds were not very good. I had to use three Dremel grinding stones to grind down the collectors smooth. The alignment of the collector flange to the header pipes were off by alot. Although I did manage to get them smooth.

1st off I would like to say that I was VERY lucky to recieve my headers with a front and a back set of collectors.

Nothing went smothly. I started at 8:30 in the morning at my uncle's shop. With myself and my uncle's friend Gary it took us till 2:30 to have the damm headers on.

Man what a FKin pain. After 2 hours of removing the stock headers we went on to put on the Stones. In the 1st shot I had the collectors on backwards. They were then switched and we went on to install the A-Pipe. After we bolted the rear section of the A-pipe we went on to do the front. Right there everything took a turn from bad to worse. The front section of the A-pipe would not meet up the the front collector it was off by about
8 mm. It may not seem like much but it took us hours just to bolt down the front collectors to the A-pipe.

Now for the performance. Right off the bat I felt nothing, still I feel nothing. Although my G Meter tells me otherwise. Prior to the instalation I've done 5 runs on the same street. The average is 193 to the wheels, just like what my dyno (actual dynometer) says I did. So after 20 mins of letting the ECU recognize the new addition I went on to do a couple test runs. After 3 runs at my usual spot and 2 others elsewhere, my average is now 210WHP, a gain of 17WHP. I managed to score a 214 to the wheels but opted to throw it out. I hit 210 +/- 0.3 - 0.8 average 3 times. The conclusion that I came to as to why I am not feeling nothing is because the power figure is throughout the whole RPM band. One thing that I will definatly say is that the response is alot quicker. On the highway when I need to pass someone I would punch it .5 seconds before I decide to do anything, to get the momentum going. Now I just roll into the gas and I'm moving. I also noticed that going from 80-110 is faster.

So that is story about the Stones. I guess my next step is to get an O2 Sim and gut the cat.








Juker008

rondog

iTrader: (1)

reset your ecu, then drive... I had the same situation, was like night and day after the reset.

scalbert

It might have taken less time for you to drive to Atlanta and have me install them... I can have the stock set out in about 30 minutes easily.

All kidding aside, don't expect too much "feel" from this. It only really gives power above 5000 RPM and most comes above 6000 RPM. But it is still a welcome addition.

scalbert

I hope one day to have the ECU code to show that this is irrelevant. :P

Nashua_Night_Hawk

17-21 WHP average "peak" gain is decent, no? have you done some timed 30-70 runs (2nd gear) and some 75-110 runs (3rd gear)?

Remeber, in 1/4 mile you may gain 0.30-.40 sec that is it!

BTW, have you tried connecting all bolts and nuts before you tighten them? (As per the instructions)

Juker008

Yea, I can say that the thought did cross my mind. Although I placed that aside due to the fact that I would have to drive back with my CLS. That is, if u are the kinda person who leaves their keys on the kitchen table :P .

About the power yea I do agree, but my G Meter shows that the power is consistant thoughtout the entire RPM. Yea that "feel" is mostly associated to those who own OBX or CTs . Reason why is because on the dyno graph all the power is pushed toward the upper RPM area. So when VTEC kicks in u've got the power of VTEC and the additional 30WHP for the headers.

I will try disconecting the neg overnight to see if I can find anymore horsies.








Juker008

AgentDSS

Juker...do you have any install tips to TRY to get the stones on more smoothly on a future install?

I am already keeping in mind Nashua's recommendation to connect all bolts but not tightening till the end.

God

Hey juker do u have any resonance at about 1900 rpms ? Like everyone is saying just disconnect the battery and reconnect it later and you will DEFINITLY be able to tell a differance .

JHEIII850Turbo

ya, definetly made a difference on the performance of Juker008's car, before I used to have him by a car, car and 1/2 but now its just 1/2 car so ya.. big difference hopefully that ECu will learn its shit so I can turn the boost up

fender4

I went thru this same problem,,,, the Install for me took along time but I took my time. Put all five head flange bolts on but only start the nuts,, about four turns each. Put the down pipe on next, start one bolt on each side, NOT three on one side then the other. Slowly work the head flange all bolts first about 50% and down pipe about 50%, then tighten up.


I didnt start the convertor bolts until after I torqued down all these bolts. Soooo had to loosen the down pipe bolts a little and then the convertor bolts started. Note I didn't loosen the head flange bolts because I didn't want anymore side loads on them.

I also took off the rubber hanger and had to put the car on a lift so I could pry it back inplace. It took a lot of force to line it up and you can't do it lying on your back. You'll see it when you get under there.

GOOD LUCK

BRCLS

Ive had mine on a few weeks would it help to reset mine?

do yalls stones (dong), like the metal is flexing or cooling?

Juker008

Headers like CT and OBX have been known to give 30+ WHP. The average down here in humid Fla. is 20-25 WHP. These headers don't peak they are consistant throughout the entire RPM range.


At the track, headers are known to take .2 off 1/4 mile times.

There is no way to go by the instrustions. The collectors don't match up with the A-pipe. So in other words, u can't even begin to place the bolts through, just to hold the pieces somewhat together. The end result was that I had to use a punch on one of the bolt holes (front collector to the A-pipe) . I pounded away until the two pieces came somewhat together. From there I placed one bolt in just to hold the pieces together from that part. And proceded to do the same to the next hole. I didn't have to do the third bolt hole only because I was able to line it up with just two of the holes.

I did have the collectors on, bolted to the engine, but loose. That was the only way to get the A-pipe to bend engough to bolt to the collectors. Once I had the collectors boldted to the
A-pipe, I then tightened the rear collector to the engine. From that point it was real scary, because I then had to tighten the front collector to the engine. I was sooo worried that one of the header bolts would snap and that would be end of it. So what I did was tighten the bolts on to just before hand tight. I never used any real force. Then I started the engine and let eveything get warmed up. The sound that comes from the engine bay with loose headers kinda sounds like a throaty V8. As the car was running and warm. I carefully began to tighten the front collector to the engine, once bolt at a time, never using any real force. I went through the entire set of collector bolts 4 times before I knew that all the bolts and the front collector were tight. Once the headers were bolted and everything was tight the car went back to sounding stock. I will say that the CAI's grunt is now more amplified.

One more problem that I ran into was that the A-pipe was short by about 1" , from connecting to the CAT. I was able to manage moving the exhaust forward to allow the A-pipe to bolt on.









Juker008

Juker008

One thing that I cna say for everyone to do is to enlarge the bolt holes by 1mm-2mm . That will make the bolts drop in more easily and give u and others more room to play.

When everything is on and the bolts are through, tighten the collectors to the A-pipe. I would then recommend to heat up the headers by letting the car run for a few mins. While the car is running and the headers are heating up begin to tighten the front collector to the engine. Be VERY carefull to evenly distribute the force to each bolt as u are tightening. Tighten one bolt just before hand tight and proceede with the others in the set. I would also say to tighten the rear collector all the way to the engine before dong the heat treatment method. It would be very difficult and very dangerious to try to tighten the rear collector to the engine while it is running and hot.







Juker008

Juker008

No, no resonance sound at all.







Juker008

Juker008

I couldn't even begine to emagine what it would have been like without a lift. Forget tring to do it in a driveway.






Juker008

ModAddict

I was able to do it, (in the garage). Rino ramps under the rear wheels, HD jack stands under the front. I was able to get the collectors and A-pipe connected loosely, but the cat to the a-pipe was twisted just enough to cause a problem. I drilled out the flange on the a-pipe 1/16" larger, and it slid right on. the hanger on the a-pipe is not hooked in because I couldn't bend it with my hand tools. I remember thinking to myself, "this would be alot easier with a lift. I probably could have dropped the rest of the exhaust of it's hangers, then attached the cat to the a-pipe with no problem.

I had a little more work because I had to get the blower out of the way first.

Mr Zipps

I did it in my driveway without a lift.... It took like 3 hrs....

Juker008

Stones?





Juker008

Juker008

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...41#post1399541








Juker008

ModAddict

Mine were.

Juker008

Are ur Stones on yet?





Juker008

JHEIII850Turbo

based on that quote id say ya... his stones are on

ModAddict

Juker008

Crap I missed that post like JHEIII misses a shift in his auto .






Juker008

JHEIII850Turbo

ya, just like brandon misses shifts while he's spraying against me in a stock volvo

Juker008

"Wow J look how fast my RPMs climb when I spray in neutral. Hey J what is my car now smoking and sputtering? "







Juker008

allmotor_2000

Please explain... you say 17whp OVER STOCK or OVER OBX/COMPTECH???

17whp over aftermarket headers is pretty significant.... or am I confused here?

CLpower

you are confused I think allmotor

Juker008

17WHP over stock.





Juker008

Nashua_Night_Hawk

This is using Gtech Competition, not a dyno.

darrinb

i felt the gains as soon as i pulled out the shop that installled them, i went WOT went i pulled out and i remember the tach needle fly after 5k

Juker008

True, but I feel that it is acurate. I dynoed 193 on a dyno, and later got my G Meter. My G Meter gives me a constant average of 193. So I do think that the measurements from the G Meter are somewhat reliable, but ovbiously still not a dyno.







Juker008

Juker008

Nothing yet, I guess the headers need more time to be recognized.









Juker008

r10apple

Hmm...I didn;t feel anything either until the reset (Comptech) the next day. My friends did, however...

I find the biggest gains are the upper rpm ranges of 2nd and 3rd. That is really the only place where I know they are on the car, and I now feel the difference...