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Pulled engine and trans today. flywheel was binding against the block.
Once i took the flywheel off engine turned easy by hand.
I made a spacer in between the crank and flywheel and it seams like it would work. but the clutch fork has no play now. So I think I will take it apart again and atempt to grind the block so i dont use any spacer.
I think its binding on the weight on the flywheel.
I dont know if its because of the 3.7 crank i have or what but i had to put spacers on the crank when it was auto too to clear the rear of the engine.
You have no idea.
Had a issue today too. I picked up the automatic crank timming gear by accident to turn the crank over by hand and gear and key was stuck on the crank.
I spent over a hour of heat and various tools and finally drilling it to get the key out and pulley off.
Key came out bent.
Autopower makes bolt in roll bars and cages for the 98-02 Accord you could try fitting.
I would suggest finding a local shop that builds cages for race cars, and have a custom one welded in. I just had one welded in my car and posted pic in my build thread.
Thanks.
Yours looks good.
you can't paint it nice like that right?
do the bolt in ones fit ?
Mine can still be painted fine, just takes lots of masking. A bolt in one could maybe be powder coated though. I can't say for sure if they will fit since they are for an accord. I would not risk it. They also have a sunroof car option and non sunroof option. I could have gotten mine bolt in, but wanted welded. Custom is the way to go on this for sure.
Since I'll be putting new dash wires I cant just lay them on these rusty looking dash pieces.
Even though you wont see it im going to paint it and make it look nice.
Do you know what holes the bolt in cages use?
I have a nephew that has a 98-00 accord that I could take measurements from. What trans fluid is everyone using ?
For the bolt in cage, you drill your own holes. You would need to add backing plates under car for extra support. I would just be worried about it fitting right. The chances of it fitting perfect are rather slim, especially the 2 parts that bolt to the rear fender section(for mine they had to be bent to fit that rounded curve). You might end up having to modify it and wish you just went custom to begin with.
Your steering hanger beam is a lot more rusty than mine. I want to ditch it and weld in one, but not really ready for a full cage just yet. I see extra metal you could remove.
I have mainly used honda fluid. I have had gm syncromesh in it for a little while. Both seem to work fine to me. My tranny is apart atm and the shop will probably just put honda fluid back in.
I alllllllllllmost did this same swap with my 03 Type S but the Accord has a stronghold on my attention....and pocketbook.
Glad to see some of the OG's still out there doing their thing.
Only input I really have here is always do pre-install checks on as many things as possible before bolting things in. The flywheel thing sounds like a fluke problem for sure but it's always the unexpected that you need to try and expect. Also, I'm not 100% familiar with the 6MT harness but I believe that remaining connector is for the knock sensor?
Kinda wish I never got into this swap but I'm getting close.
Just got both new harnesses from multi fuse boxes to the front of the car.
CLP harnesses would not work there either.
Guess i'm just going to order the fuse boxes on each side of the dash and the one under the hood just to make sure and hopefully thats it.
I could've bought another whole 6speed car for the money dished out on the 6speed swap to clp.
I havent added everything up but all said and done I bet its going to be about 4k possibly more.
Last edited by richardparker; Nov 28, 2014 at 10:26 AM.
What's crazy is I've had a near complete 6mt swap for sale now for months now that you could've purchased from me.
Its crazy, nobody REALLY understands the depth of a swap until you get there. That's why you see so many that are half ass jobs with ongoing issues. To truly complete one and make things right, you must take it all the way back to the core modules and wiring inside the car. My 6g Accord with the 4g TLS dash swap was intense. Integrating two completely different wiring systems isn't an easy task.
Dude I just finished swapping all my wiring back to auto from CL-S6... Lol, well at least you got brand new parts!
I still need drivers door harness,and the harness that goes down the left side of the car besides what i plan to buy.
It sucks the car was not a type s to begin with.
Every single harness is different in the F'n car.
Yesterday I did some of the wiring and maybe I need to make some good grounds since the metal dash pieces were repainted . So far all that's working is head lights,tail lights,reverse lights stay on,windows/locks and fuel pump for sure.
With the scanner plugged in it shows all non running sensors communicating.
When I turn the ignition to run I get a buzzing from the left fuse box and thats it.
Also missing one relay for the new left cabin to front of car harness.
It was differnt.
Also, I have a blue wire with spade connector coming out of the back of the left fuse box and have no idea where that goes.
I also have a 4-5 extra plugs from the dash harnesses on the left side witch I assume there for
intake runner control module
lateral acceration sensor
steering angle sensor
and yaw rate sensor
but I have no idea.
I have a extra door plug that goes no where and one plug that goes no where for the for the harness that goes down the left side of the car.
Last edited by richardparker; Dec 1, 2014 at 08:06 PM.
What's crazy is I've had a near complete 6mt swap for sale now for months now that you could've purchased from me.
Its crazy, nobody REALLY understands the depth of a swap until you get there. That's why you see so many that are half ass jobs with ongoing issues. To truly complete one and make things right, you must take it all the way back to the core modules and wiring inside the car. My 6g Accord with the 4g TLS dash swap was intense. Integrating two completely different wiring systems isn't an easy task.
I can really appreciate the wiring you've done.
Mine should be plug and play but, I'm still scratching my head because theirs stuff everywhere that dont look right.
I would say way more than 50lbs.
Each auto trans I've shipped were 275-280lbs with the convertor,not sure if that was including the pallet or not.
The auto trans I can lift them off of the tail gate of my truck and put it down on the ground right before I think I'm about to drop a ball.
The manual trans I could put it on and take it off the truck all day long.
Hoping for low 2500 with the glass.
I would say way more than 50lbs.
Each auto trans I've shipped were 275-280lbs with the convertor,not sure if that was including the pallet or not.
The auto trans I can lift them off of the tail gate of my truck and put it down on the ground right before I think I'm about to drop a ball.
The manual trans I could put it on and take it off the truck all day long.
Hoping for low 2500 with the glass.
Well then you will be surprised.
03 CL-P curb weight: 3470
03 CLS6 curb weight: 3446
03 CLS curb weight: 3510
I guess it dont matter either way but,I'll weigh it again after everything is straightened out.
With that being said I went out to the car this morning.
Found no ground from battery or body to the trans.
Ran a wire to the trans and got a click at the starter.
Checked battery and voltage was only showing 5v.
With battery now charged all electrical seams to be working and the car is cranking over.
But I found my fuel line to the regulator is split and pouring out fuel.
So I got to fix that before another attempted start.
Theirs finally hope, today might be a great day.
Rich, if you're doing harness swap from a base CL to a 6mt Type S, there's definitely a few differences that could prohibit you from starting the car. Anyway to snap some pictures of the connectors (front and rear) and what their locations are in the car. I will help you sort them out as best as I can. It would be even more helpful if you include specific wire colors in regards to the cavity of the connector.
But I'm thinking its a immobilizer issue now is why its not starting.
Noticed it today going over everything in the car.
The green key light on the dash just blinks and dont stop blinking.
Trying to deal with the seller and see if he'll swap me for another he has for sale but ,its been like a year so who knows.
Also on the left side of the dash, there is an IMRC box that a blue? connector plugs into. I have all the boxes and wiring from the CL-S6, so let me know what you need.
Also, you will probably have to swap the underhood fusebox to a CL-S6, because it has the Clutch relay for starting the car.
I did not program anything because the seller said it was a matching ecu,ignition,and key set.
But it doesnt look that way.
I paid over 400 so I hope he stands behind his sale.
If not ,can it be done not in the car ?
The closest Acura dealer is 60 miles away and that would be a hefty tow charge.
I did not program anything because the seller said it was a matching ecu,ignition,and key set.
But it doesnt look that way.
I paid over 400 so I hope he stands behind his sale.
If not ,can it be done not in the car ?
The closest Acura dealer is 60 miles away and that would be a hefty tow charge.
The easiest way to tell if they're programmed is by entering the ECM or immobilizer ecu with a capable scan tool and retrieve any related DTCs. If you experience any issues communicating while attempting to retrieve stored codes, this can indicate that the module(s) have wiring related issues....possibly due to the disconnected plugs you spoke of.
However, if you can establish communication, then this generally means that the module is being properly grounded/powered. This means that the reason for the no start condition could be related to programming. In addition to a potential programming concern, given that the key light is blinking, the immobilizer ecu is "online" and the issue could exist with the ECM. But that's an assumption and should be confirmed before taking it as an issue to chase after.
Anything else on the car not working (that previously worked before) since the harness was swapped? I believe you said some relays were clicking, what relays were they exactly? That could indicate a weak or missing ground circuit. Are you 100% certain all grounding points on the replacement harness were bolted to the body? There can be a group of systems that may not work in the car due to a shared common ground or even ignition feed so searching for clues like this can help in determining what and where the issue may be.
Lastly, don't hesitate to PM me your phone number if you need any additional help with this.
The scanner did comunicate.
before clearing everything it had a over speed code in it.i went over every ground i could find cleaned metal and rebolted.
no more buzzing from the drivers side relay box.
I have bought everything else needed to convert the whole car to 6speed from karanx7 last night .
with nothing left to get well see but I still think their will be a issue with the ecu and transponder set up.
Any place or anyone capable of dealing with programing other than acura ?
Last edited by richardparker; Dec 4, 2014 at 06:43 AM.
Yeah, there should be smaller automotive shops around that have Honda programming capabilities. With the amount of aftermarket companies making scan tools with this feature, you shouldn't have any issues finding an alternative shop to do this. Just make sure you have all your keys with you before showing up. Also, I'd do your research beforehand and make sure the immobilizer ecu and the ecm part numbers correlate with an 03 CLS 6MT. I say this because differing years or sub - models may not interchange. Calling Acura with a random VIN from an 03 CLS 6MT should help you confirm this by matching whatever part numbers they give you.
Yeah, there should be smaller automotive shops around that have Honda programming capabilities. With the amount of aftermarket companies making scan tools with this feature, you shouldn't have any issues finding an alternative shop to do this. Just make sure you have all your keys with you before showing up. Also, I'd do your research beforehand and make sure the immobilizer ecu and the ecm part numbers correlate with an 03 CLS 6MT. I say this because differing years or sub - models may not interchange. Calling Acura with a random VIN from an 03 CLS 6MT should help you confirm this by matching whatever part numbers they give you.
Ok thanks.
Got a lead from RUSH to call a locksmith.
And sure enough they said they will come to my house tomorrow and reprogram my stuff
in my driveway for 50-60 bucks.
. So far all that's working is head lights,tail lights,reverse lights stay on,windows/locks and fuel pump for sure.