(Finally) I refuse to install another auto trans
#1
(Finally) I refuse to install another auto trans
I had a half a day of me time today so I decided to get everything out and finally get the 6 speed swap going.
I hope it all its cracked up to be.
I hope it all its cracked up to be.
#3
#4
^ Thats for a auto trans swap.
Im done messing with the autos.
I do have a higher stall convertor for sale out of my last trans and a 06 tl trans if anyone wants anything to do with it.
Im done messing with the autos.
I do have a higher stall convertor for sale out of my last trans and a 06 tl trans if anyone wants anything to do with it.
#5
Awesome. Now get the 3.80 final drive gear and put that in before you stick the trans in
Clicky ---> https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...-drive-910949/
Clicky ---> https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...-drive-910949/
#6
Def interested in that.
Pulled auto timming stuff off .
At good time,found crank seal starting to creap out and getting damaged by the pulley or guide .
Shifter and cable out.
No turning back now.
Pulled auto timming stuff off .
At good time,found crank seal starting to creap out and getting damaged by the pulley or guide .
Shifter and cable out.
No turning back now.
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rockstar143 (12-05-2014)
#12
Just using the cl-s6 ecu first.
You would've love to see how I compressed my tensioner then.
I compressed it in between a floor jack and the frame of my truck.
New cam and crank seals installed.
CLS6 timing installed.
I had to shim the cam sensors a little more using the 6 speed stuff with the 08tls cams.
I compressed it in between a floor jack and the frame of my truck.
New cam and crank seals installed.
CLS6 timing installed.
I had to shim the cam sensors a little more using the 6 speed stuff with the 08tls cams.
#16
#20
Yay, you got the pedal spacer I mentioned in a previous thread. It will save you mucho headaches. BUT I would put it on the engine bay side instead. This way the pedal still sits flush with the firewall. Otherwise the pedal bracket's going to flex from the space and probably eventually crack. It happened to me
Last edited by AnthraciteTypeS; 10-01-2014 at 10:01 AM.
#22
Yay, you got the pedal spacer I mentioned in a previous thread. It will save you mucho headaches. BUT I would put it on the engine bay side instead. This way the pedal still sits flush with the firewall. Otherwise the pedal bracket's going to flex from the space and probably eventually crack. It happened to me
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#32
I just bought all the damper stuff.where were you when i was asking about what to delte from the clutch line stuff.
I think all i want to do is modify the slave just not sure how.
#33
thanks now i can put the rest together under the hood.I thought i was going to have to rewire.
I just bought all the damper stuff.where were you when i was asking about what to delte from the clutch line stuff.
I think all i want to do is modify the slave just not sure how.
I just bought all the damper stuff.where were you when i was asking about what to delte from the clutch line stuff.
I think all i want to do is modify the slave just not sure how.
#34
I got the radiator,belts,manifold, vac and fuel lines hooked up.
I went to do the J pipe and think one of my o2 sensors is hitting something.
It started raining so I did not get a good look yet.
I went to do the J pipe and think one of my o2 sensors is hitting something.
It started raining so I did not get a good look yet.
#37
dunno if this would work but ... you could try putting on a bent defouler which will give u some slack back and will reposition the o2 sensor to be parallel with the j pipe vs being perpendicular.
i did this when i did the xlr8 high flow cat. xlr8 sells the defouler which he reccommended and it gave me the slack i needed and got rid of the code it likely would produce from the emmissions being worse
i did this when i did the xlr8 high flow cat. xlr8 sells the defouler which he reccommended and it gave me the slack i needed and got rid of the code it likely would produce from the emmissions being worse
#38
My wide band o2 sensor is right under the engine and its a tight fit and I got it back on but I did order a 45 for the sensor and its already here.
Problem today is I cant turn the motor over by hand.
Finished up just about everything except the interior harnesses today and deceided to turn the motor over and its locked. With the cam covers off i can turn the shafts a touch in either direction so I dont think its binding there.
Blead lines to the slave and have a hard pedal.
removed starter
It just locked at the crank.
Does the motor stay locked if no one is pressing the clutch or do I have something installed wrong ?
Problem today is I cant turn the motor over by hand.
Finished up just about everything except the interior harnesses today and deceided to turn the motor over and its locked. With the cam covers off i can turn the shafts a touch in either direction so I dont think its binding there.
Blead lines to the slave and have a hard pedal.
removed starter
It just locked at the crank.
Does the motor stay locked if no one is pressing the clutch or do I have something installed wrong ?
#39
Pulled the timing belt.
Cams will turn,crank wont.
It has to be in between the engine and trans.
I wonder If I installed the disk the right way.
I installed it with the longer side of the disc's shaft facing the trans.
Is that correct ?
Cams will turn,crank wont.
It has to be in between the engine and trans.
I wonder If I installed the disk the right way.
I installed it with the longer side of the disc's shaft facing the trans.
Is that correct ?