I've been checking out the TL performance board occasionally and came across this article. https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...9&page=1&pp=25 Made the order and put them on the other day. It's a simple mod and the shifts seem a little more crisp.

I also removed the clutch dampining device that restricts return fluid flow during rapid clutch engagement. Here is another thread for some info. https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119609

Removing it allows the pressure plate to engage more swiftly thus giving a positive lock during haul ass mode. it works and is also a simple mod. Removing it allows you to use the full performance of the pressure plate.

It is located on the drivers side frame rail and has the clutch master cylnder line running into it on one side and then comes out of the other and continues to the slave cylnder.

A 10mm wrench and dremmel is all you need to do this mod. The dremmel is used to cut the brackett that holds the dampner so you can re-bolt the brackett to the frame rail. This way you don't have to make or buy any lines, just use whats there.

 

Are there any instructions on how to remove the CDD?

 

That was taken on when I changed the shifter boots. No instructions as it was an independant mod. It's quite easy and only took me about an hour tops.

 

Damn, 6 speeders.

 

Do any of these apply to 1st gen 5spds?

 

Not sure, you'd have to compare the boot part numbers between your car and the 2nd gen 6spd boots. As for the CDD, you'd have to look and see if your car has one.

 

Here's some pics of the removed CDD and bracket. I'll try to explain some tips for doing this as best as my High School gEd allows.

This is the position you'll see it when you locate it on the frame rail. There is a part of the brackett that I've cut off and reused on the car so I wouldn't have to make a brake line.






As you can see, there is one small metal line that comes out of the CDD into the rubber hose fitting,,,(not shown). That rubber hose fitting is attached to the other part of the brackett that I cut off. The rubber hose fitting is attached to the brackett with a clip. You need to cut off that part of the brackett so you can attach the rubber hose with fitting back to it. The other hole is where the main line off the clutch master cylnder connects to.








This is the brackett that is NOT used. If you look where the two bolts are you will see a hole. That hole holds the bolt that connects it to the frame. On the other side of the brackett, you can clearly see where I dremmled/cut the bracket in two. On the part of the brackett that you don't see is another bolt hole that also supports the brackett to the frame. Once you cut this part of the brackett off, re-use one of the bolts and attach it to the bolt hole in the frame that is closest to the driver. Then attach the rubber hose with fitting back up into the brackett and secure with clip. Then wiggle the main line off the clutch master cylnder into the fitting, (rubber hose with fitting) and your done.

Once you tear into it, it will make more sense.






Tip...loosen the fittings before you remove the brackett.

You may have to bleed your system again, although I haven't done so yet, it seems to be ok. You might be able to get away with it if you keep the rubber hose fitting facing upward so fluid doesn't leak out.

Wish I'd taken some pics of the other side of the bracket. I can't get to it on the car due to the snail intake filter. Overall, i'm happy with the results. Be advised that it is harder on your motor mounts as the engagement is slightly harsher.

 

Ahhhhhh, maybe THIS is why the clutch slips when I do the rare full-throttle 2-3 or 3-4 shifts at full boost. I will have to take it out and see how it does. Thanks for the find...

 

Good info Tom. I'm not sure if I'm going to remove the dampener though. With the lightweight flywheel, I'm already concerned about the reduced dampening and shock to the gearbox.

I'll try the cable ends to firm up the shifter though.

 

it looks to me like the part numbers match up

 

thinjim - would removing that create more heat? i guess your just waiting for competition to pull through.

 

It could be, I don't remember, do you have the comptech flywheel? I do and in the beginning I wasn't slipping, or at least thought I wasn't. It's that 2-3, 3-4 fast shift that the pressure plate doesn't have time to engage.

Tell me, or anyone who knows fluid dynamics, If I were to increase the diameter of the line between the clutch master cylnder and slave cylnder, would this make any difference in reducing the time it takes for the slave cylnder to release the pressure?

The dampning of the stock dual mass flywheel is mostly for the motor (i think), besides, the clutch disk comptech provides with it's solid flywheel is a sprung disk which makes up for any lost dampning. If you used an unsprung disk with their flywheel, you'd more than likely have some issues. The front pulley also has a dampner built into it, sort of like a dual mass pulley. (so to speak).

You'll like the cable ends, remember, use anti seize compound on them when you install, some people like grease, I like the anti sleeze compound.

If the part numbers are the same between your car and the 2003 acura cl S 6 speed, it should work. give that company a call and explain it to them, I'm sure they'll work with you if it doesn't fit.

no. has no bearing on heat, just firmer engagement. some may not even notice it at all, but any slight improvement is better than none.

 

is there a negative side to it upon removing the CDD, in a long run?

 

That's hard to say. I'm not sure how long auto makers have been using this device or if all late models have it. I guess it's been installed to help the car feel less harsh on the shift and reduce the shock to the motor mounts and driveline. Best guess is your mounts and driveline wear and tear would increase, that would be the tradeoff.

I personally like the difference it has made as the engagement is crisper than it ever has been, even under normal driving. I think it may increase the life of the disk as removing the dampner allows the pressure plate to engage quicker thus not allowing the plate and disk to slip, which wears out the disk and flywheel.

I've driven the car for several days now with the new bushings and the difference is noticeable. The bushings make a huge difference and I recommend it. It's an easy mod and in conjunction with or without the short shifter anyone who does it will like the effect.

 

which one did you get? TL or Accord bushings? are those the same?

 

http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...roducts_id=497

 

great info ThinJim. i'm intrigued to do this

 

Yeah, me too... I've always thought that my 6spd was a little too much luxury, and not enough sport...

I'm wondering if I could just move the line going into the CDD over to the where the line comes out off the CDD, and just elimanate the short hard line... that way if I wanted to go back to stock, it would be easy... The CDD (and bracket) would still be there, but the line would just bypass it... going directly from the clutch master cylnder to the slave.

The shifter cable end bushing is another good mod...

 

The effect is quite subtle, but noticeable. It doesn't take away from the everyday driveablility. Give it a try, it's easy to go back if you don't like it. I'd suspect you'd leave it though, as like I said, it's very subtle.

I already tried moving just the line over and removing the short line(which has to be removed anyway), but doing so stretches the line off the reservoir. I didn't like the way it felt, and then I still wasn't able to reach the rubber hose with the fitting on it. That's the reason why I cut the bracket in half and moved it to the front bolt hole, (or the one closest to the drivers compartment). That way you have room although you still have to wiggle the line off the reservoir to fit.

I suppose a very quick way to see if you like it is to undo the rubber hose off the brackett and just connect it to the other end of the reservoir line. You could just let it flop around to see if you like it or not while you drive for a few days. I wouldn't let it stay that way though.

 

Ok. I thought there must be a reason why you had to cut the bracket, but I haven't eyeballed the setup yet. I guess there isn't enough slack in the lines...

 

has anyone else tried this mod? my friend and i tried it on his e46 last night. He told me it was installed to protect your clutch. we removed it last night and he said the clutch felt lighter, but was right after we removed it, so I'm not sure if it has gone back to normal.

 

I have not done this yet but did buy a replacement steel braided line that's longer and is supposed to be a good replacement.

More info on this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=clutch+line

 

Guys, maybe i am really stupid, but where exactly is the CDD located? I want to remove mine as well, but I don't even know where to look? Is it in the engine bay? Inside the shifter collumn?

 

Crazy. I just now saw this thread. Seems like an excellent thing to do.

 

Any professionals in ther Maryland area wanna make a few bucks helping me do this??

 

My friend did this with his Evo as well. He liked it. I guess I shall have to do the same...

 

I never installed it (CDD)during the conversion. I cant say weather or not it made a difference, but its been operating great for over 30k now

 

i wanna get this done, cant have the car acting up at the track.

 

Is there a diagram or part# of this so we can see where this is located? Like how in acuraoemparts.com where they show diagrams of where its at on the car.

Thanks to whom ever retrieves this info.

 

thanks and advance to

 

http://acuraautomotiveparts.org/acur...s=&view=normal

it's number 24

 

Does anyone have the pictures forthis post i want to remove the clutch damper