Okay, this is a really dumb question but how often does your fan run after you get out of your CL? I never noticed it last year, even in the really hot days of summer but now it seems to run pretty often. Even on the cooler days like today (60-65degF) it was running when I got to work. Traffic was fine but it is a 20 mile ride. My only worry is that since I never noticed it before and now I notice it pretty often that it might be a symptom of a larger problem. The temperature gauge is firmly placed exactly 50% of the way between hot and cold so it seems like the temp is okay. Eh, maybe I am making a big deal out of nothing. Since it was just in the shop for that self inflicted parking garage damage (it looks perfect now) I alway worry if something else might get get busted when the car is out of my hands. I should probably check the coolant level too.

Additionally, the side mirror tip down feature stopped working within the last couple days. Is there a seperate fuse for that? I haven't checked the manual yet.

 

I know it's obvious, but have you checked the position of the mirror selector? it's gotta be in the center position or the right side mirror won't dip.


as far as the fan goes, I don't think I've ever noticed my fan running after I turn the motor off.

 

Depending on A/C usage *and* other factors, it could go on more. Traffic will require more fan use since you don't get a lot of airflow through the front of the car. The fan isn't needed if you are moving at a good clip (it may come on, but it is less likely). If you are moving on the freeway, and the fan is going on all the time, IMO, you would want to check that.

If I'm in traffic and it's only 70-degrees out, the fan will kick on.

I have a 2001 CLS auto. The 2003 6-speed fan electrical is a bit different (so I've been told).

It wouldn't hurt to check the coolant once a month. Do keep an eye where you park for any leaks. The A/C can leave plenty of water (condensation) on the ground after running.

 

Oh, has your temp gauge always sat at dead half?

Mine always sits a little below half...

Does the car have a slushbox?

 

Yes, it is an auto and I hardly ever run the A/C since I notice a marked dip in acceleration when I have it on. I recall my temp gauge sitting below half a little also. All of these things gave me enough concern that I figured that it didn't hurt to dip into the collective knowledge of the forum. As far as the fan running on the highway, I am not so concerned and in fact I haven't heard it running (heard being the key word there). It is after I get where I am going and I am walking away from the car and I can hear the fan buzzing away. It must be a recent thing since my fiance' commented the other night that she had never noticed it running before either and I hadn't mentioned it to her before she made that comment.

I'll double check the position of the mirror selector but I am 99.9% sure it is in the middle since when I noticed that it didn't dip I tried to move it manually and it worked fine. I generally click it back into the middle after that.

 

Mine was running before I even started the car this morning.

I always turn the key to the position (just before it cranks) for about 5 seconds or so. When I did it this morning, I could hear the fan running. My garage temp was around 60 degrees. I’ve never noticed it running on shut down (maybe because I have no traffic when I get close to home).

 

I dont think mine has ever come on after the car is shutoff and this include 100+ temps. I didnt think it was hot but rather was wired to key on only. The temp gauge is fairly useless since it doesnt seem to register any actual temp. Whether it is cold, or 100 and youre in traffic, it doesnt budget which cannot be an actual reading. My 280z gauge varies and I can watch it move when I'm stopped and the fan kicks on. The Acura temp gauge reads a few ticks below half all the time on mine.

I see that you have headers. Did this start once those were installed? Those may be throwing more heat that the stock manifold. What else has changed since this started happening? If nothing, I'd have it checked by the dealer. You may have a thermostat that is starting to stick, or is partially stuck closed. Not good if it sticks all the way. A relatively cheap replacement anyway.

 

Thanks for the advice. No, it didn't start when I got the headers but just the fact that they probably do throw more heat might effect something over time. The car is still under warranty so it should be fine if I go to the dealer. 90% of the aftermarket stuff on the car was installed there so they are pretty mod friendly.

 

You shouldn't notice a drop in performance under WOT with the A/C on. It has a clutch that pulls it offline during acceleration. If your commenting on part throttle acceleration, etc, I suppose it's possible (I can't tell on my car and I've tried it).

I'm not really commenting on how loud or not the fan is on the highway, just that it really makes a huge difference in town. If it is running on the highway in the temps your talking about, you've got a problem. (It may come on up hills and on occasion, but if you pull of the highway and BOTH fans are screaming with the temp == 70 degrees, something seems out-of-wack.)

If your temp gauge is sitting at a "new" position (higher), it could indicate a possible problem. Some items that come to mind:

1. Could something be blocking the airflow to the radiator? Solution: just pop hood and look for any junk in the radiator fins. If it is full of crud, get a hose out and blow it clean.

2. (Check tranny?) If the tranny really gets messed up, it's possible to move the excess heat that it will produce INTO the engine's cooling system. The little ATF-to-coolant intercooler is what normally cools (and heats) the transmission. Question: Are you having any other tranny related "weirdness?" (slipping, noise, hard shifts, etc.)

4. If your thermostat is reading high, you may have a bad water pump or coolant leak. You don't need a very large leak to lose pressure. When you lose pressure, it cause the water to boil/bubble inside the engine (cylinder heads, block, passages, etc). If the water doesn't hold good pressure, the car will overheat and you can lose very little water. So here are some suggestions:

a. Keep an eye on the coolant level. Also, when the car is cool, see if the level in the radiator (not overflow tank) is were it should be.

b. You could always have a pressure test (they just put the pressure tester in place of the radiator cap and see if it holds pressure.) If you have a "friendly" local mechanic or gas station with service bay, they will generally do it for you for free or a few bucks (depends on mood, regular customer, etc).

c. See if you have a bad radiator cap not holding pressure. (You'd probably want to swap for another one.) If it only holds a few lbs of pressure, the car will overheat.

c. If the thermostat is screwed-up, it can open up late or get "lazy." That would need someone to look into this for you.

d. HAS ANYONE MESSED WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM? HAVE YOU INSTALLED A CAI? (An air bubble would not be fun.)



Note: there are engine problems that will also cause high temps, but I think you would get a engine light tossed (not dead sure). If the timing was too retarded, or the mixture was too lean, you could get a ton of heat. However, the car has a computer and should be looking over the 02 sensor readings and seeing where the fuel trim tables are going.

I though about a bad temp switch for a minute, but it wouldn’t affect the temp gauge reading.

Generally speaking, the temp has to be pretty high to have the fan come on with the car stopped.

 

I think most of the gauges read a little below center. I once asked Scalbert about the coolant position with the Mugen fan switch, thermostat and cap; he said the coolant gauge was basically an on-off switch. I certainly notice mine come up when it warms up. And, some people have mentioned how the needle reads higher after they get some of the "special" rebuilt trannies. So, it has to move around somewhat. Just because it isn't linear, doesn't mean it won’t jump up in discrete steps. The coolant gauge is analog, so it’s up to the computer to “relay”/”interpret” the water temp reading. (I've never found definitive info in the service manual or elsewhere. I only get the stories from folks regarding their sick trannies.) Maybe coolant in red == explosion

There are two fans and two speeds (high/low), so a car that is properly working should be able to maintain a pretty even coolant temp. Electric fans are a great thing to have on a car.

 

Your A/C was on -- yes?

 

Wow...that was a pretty comprehensive reply. Thanks! I went out and checked the radiator just a minute ago and the level was perfect and the radiator seemed pretty clean. I do have a Comptech Icebox and it was installed at the dealership a year ago. They did do the whole cooling system drain and stuff that was required in the instructions. That was one of the reasons I had it done at the dealership.

I think that over the weekend I'll keep a close eye on the temp and the fan and see if it is a constant problem and how far I have to drive to get the fan to click on and stay on after the car is off. My Prelude (last car) would do similar things on hot days but it always did it so I didn't think much of it. I figured that it was just because I pushed it's 4-cyl pretty hard consistantly.

I do notice a drop in acceleration with the A/C on in the CL-S. As you said, at WOT it is okay but other times it feels a bit sluggish. This can be mostly overcome if I use the sport shift it seems. My Prelude was a DOG with the A/C on however...again probably due to the 4-cyl.

The tranny seems to be working okay as far as I can tell. I have been in Bulldog01's CL when its tranny was dying and my car isn't doing any of the slipping or spinning into 2nd gear stuff.

Again, thanks for all of the insight. I really appreciate it. Hopefully it isn't a problem since I am getting married in 2 weeks and fitting in a service appointment any day or weekend is a lot harder than it may seem.

 

Both fans on at 195/f

 

This happened to be when I first got my CL... The cause was not enough coolant in my radiator. After the car is turned off the car still thinks it is hotter than it is suppose to be, therefore your fan will run when it shouldn't.

Personally I would flush your radiator to make sure you have the proper coolant level. If you don't want to do that try to add a little bit of 50/50 coolant and you should be ok. If not I would then check your thermostat. But given I've experienced this I am sure you may just be short of coolant.