runis

Hi all,
Just bought a 2002 CL-S w/ Nav but it feels under powered especially around 4000 - 5000 when I am told that is when the VTEC/ etc. should kick in. Is there anyway to verify that the dealership didn't just stick the Type S sticker on it and try to screw me. Also if it is really a Type S is there anything that could cause a power loss? I read something about an actuator not opening? Any help would be appreciated.

__________________
2002 Silver CL Type S w/ NAV
35% Tint but stock other than that

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typeR

yes...the vtec does not kick in at 4-5 its a precise 5500 rpm however the second stage intake opens at 3800 and yuo would feel a definte loss of power if it failed to open goto FAQ look up intake plenum...good luck

yayaya143

pop open ur hood, or just look at ur red line, if its 6400rpm and u didnt get an S

synth19

Hmm...you need to check the actuator....

Fabvsix

I am the Actuator victim or TWO that have been replaced. Sounds too familar ! Check your ACTUATOR !

Iridium130

Check the actuator.

There should be something that clicks open around 4000 RPMS (correct me if I am wrong)...have a friend rev your engine for you and check for yourself.

I had to get mine replaced...

KavexTrax

a 2002 having an actuator problem?!?
Check your Date of Manufacture (DOM), theres a sticker on the side of the driver's door.
See if it was made in '00 or '01

Runis, did you own a quicker car before the S?

Shawn S

Perforated seats, white gauges, shifter knob & 17” Wheels are a dead give away.

If you bought without checking theses items, you didn’t do too much research on the car before your purchase did you ???

I would guess it’s the actuator though.

Shawn S

scalbert

BTW, the VTEC switch over occurs at 4800 revs on the Type-S.

IntegraVT

iTrader: (1)

Check the VIN....

http://www.geocities.com/gamesmgr/chod/acura/#Info17

kensteele

Yep, the VIN is the best way.

Not that it couldn't happen but do you realize that a dealership changing the car's ID as such would be tantamount to fraud? The punitive damages and the consequences of getting caught doing this would more than outweigh the price differences between a CL-P and CL-S. I am almost inclined to say there isn't a single Acura dealership in the country that would try to pull that.

After checking the actuator, I would go back to the dealership and drive one of the CL-Ps and you should notice the difference right away.

monkeymato

Aculator seems to be the problem. I dont think an Acura dealer would lie like that. But if you got the 17" rims, different leather, and shifter and stuff easy tell. I dont think a dealer would go through all that trouble for 2 g's.

Shawn S

***** FAQ ALERT *****

You can check the VIN yourself.

The number should start with: 19UYA42

The next digit is one of the following:
3-Base (don’t know what that means myself)
4-Premium
5-Premiun w/NAV
6-Type S
7-Type S w/NAV

Shawn S

runis

Where is this actuator and how do I check it? Sorry for my ignorance but as you can tell I am a "newbie".

--------------------------------------------
2002 Silver CL Type S w/ NAV
35% Tint but stock other than that

**In Due Time**
Comptech Springs
AEM CAI
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runis

This is great...thanks for all the input. I did do a lot of research on the car but not the difference between the CL and the CL-S. I knew I wanted the S so I didn't think to compare the two...guess I should have. I agree, I doubt any Acura dealership would risk that for a few grand. All the tests came back positive...it IS a type S...but I still feel nothing around 4k on the tach. Everyone seems to think it is an actuator...wish I could find it. Also to answer KavexTrax's question no I did not own a faster car before this but I did testdrive a lot of faster ones before I chose the CL-S manily because it was the best value (and I could still afford to eat and keep a roof over my head). Other cars I tested:

BMW M3 (would have it now if the dealers didn't markup 6k!)
Corvette Z-06 (FAST CAR!! but too many rattles and poor build)
Volvo S60 T5 (before you make fun of me check it out...nice car)
Lexus IS300 (not enough power and friend's girlfriend drive one)
Subaru WRX (can't get into the radical styling (its ugly))
Honda S2000 (too small...I am 6'2)
BMW M Roadster (nice car but too small and not worth the price...expecially when the M3 is right around the corner)

2002 Silver CL Type S w/ NAV
Suspected bad actuator
35% Tint but stock other than that

**In Due Time**
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JRock

Dude, READ. THE. FAQ. It tells you what the actuator is, how to check it, etc. Very simple.

ChodTheWacko

[QUOTE]Originally posted by runis
[B]Where is this actuator and how do I check it? Sorry for my ignorance but as you can tell I am a "newbie".


Eat FAQ, newbie!!!!!

www.wizardsworks.org/chod/acura

ruvz

ummm.... have you ever heard about breaking in a car?? if you just picked up the car and are revving to 5-6K RPM already, you're not doing it right. You gotta break in the car.


Also keep in mind that cars usually hit optimal performance after 10K miles anyways..

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

I was thinking the same exact thing reading through this topic. You should be taking it easy on this car for at least the first 600 miles (I went 1000, better safe then sorry). I think I may have hit vtec maybe 3 times in the first thousand miles. After that, I slowly started driving it harder (didn't do it right at 1k). Trust me, your car (specifically the engine) will thank you later (when you're around 50k)......

mffdvr

Well....as for break-in, I wanted to drive the crap out of 'er right off the bat, but knew better. I didn't get 'er over 3500RPM and/or drive 'er faster than 65MPH for the first 1000miles, AND I changed my oil at 1000miles with Mobil 1 synthetic. I gradually began opening 'er up as we went. I've got 4300 now and am loving every minute of it, because I know that my break-in was cautious but effective.

As for your acuator, check the FAQ. Pictures and everything explaining what you need to know. At around 4800RPM you should really hear 'er open up and give you that extra gush!!!! Check the pictures and get a buddy to help you out a bit (push the pedal while you look under the hood........not wearing a neck-tie). Good luck bud and enjoy your new car!!!!

yayaya143

CLP dont have one right?

fender4

stop over and I'll check it out for you.

runis

I waited until 750 miles before I took it to 4k to 5k. Before that I always kept it below 3500 and 70mph. So yes...I have heard of breaking it in. Thanks for everyone's help....the non snooty ones anyway. :P

--------------------------------------------
2002 Silver CL Type S w/ NAV
35% Tint but stock other than that

**In Due Time**
Comptech Springs
AEM CAI
Comptech Headers
Comptech Exhaust