No pics tonight but I did trim down the tops of all walls and it is setting up right now. I'm using a few dabs of JB Weld to get everything set before taking it to the welding shop. I won't be doing anything on it tomorrow but I should be able to finish cutting the lid on Thursday and get it set in place which I'll snap a few pics and post them.

If all goes as it should be able to take it Friday but most likely Saturday to get welded. So I might be able to do some initial testing on Saturday.

My initial plan, before a full dyno session which will be scheduled once completed, is to use the GTech Pro HP reading and make 3rd gear pulls on a flat stretch of highway near me. I guess three passes stock and three with the new RES while averaging the numbers should give a reasonable estimate in percentage increases.

But sorry JRock, no whistling chamber at this time.

 

Oh yea, one other thing. The guys doing the welding works for Lockheed on the F22 production line as a, guess what, yes a welder. But much of his work is on Titanium and such; he might not be able to handle this aluminum stuff.

 

Yeah, I was also thinking about that divider rail...

Does the stock setup divide the two sides?

Wouldn't you get MORE air charge by NOT placing that divider in the middle???

Just thought I'd bring it up before you had it welded...

Anyway, ...Great job, Scalbert!

 

Yes, the stock chamber is divided which is the essence of the IMRC plates. The chambers are seperated at low RPM but at 3800 the plates open; now connecting the two sides.

 

scalbert -

I just want to say that this is really impressive!!

Alum. is the BOMB To see the manhours in the photos would convince anybody that you are one serious CLS enthusiast.

In my experience, I truely believe what you are doing will work and As far as needing councel for the patent when this thing takes off, let me know, I have a good contact here in Philly.

 

Wonder what a "HUNK" of good ole

81
Tl
204

would look under Da Hood ? !

Oh Well, Aluminum is Lighter Still--and I'm sure much easier to work with...not to mention 10x's Cheaper.

Wonder if someone: With more $$ than they know what to do with has ever fabricated certain elements of a Car with Ti ? I know it Gives a lot, so it would NOT be as STIFF Steel.

 

Thanks but what I really meant was counseling in the psychiatric sense, I have no plan on making others. But I might do up drawings and directions for other if they want to take the same course.

 

I am sure it has been done before, in fact I think I have heard of people building cars using Titanium nuts and bolts to save weight. But this is for pure race applications so who knows about daily drivers. But most probably someone has done it...

 

scalbert,

Any new updates? did the TIG welder work his magic?

In response to the use of Ti:
Copper Nickle, either 9010 or 7030 could be another alternate in lieu of Ti. I worked for a company in VA. that manufactured pipe fittings for nuclear subs and carriers. I figure since the material complies w/ MILSPECs that it would be good enough to go in our cars. Just a thought.

 

I just love talking "Exotic Metals"

Lets break out the Periodic Table see what we Can Come up with !!

 

Nothing very exciting, I took the night off for the most part. I did try a test fit and found the front edge was too tall. So tonight I will be grinding down the side walls and making the unit into a somewhat dome shape as opposed to the square it is now. This should provide enough clearance and give it a better look.

I did tack eveything in place with JB Weld and it is sturdy. Very solid with no air gaps, I may even test it in this form prior to paying for the welding (no need to dump more money into it prior to testing when the JB Weld will work fine for temporary testing) and the powder coating.

Once ground down and fitting properly I'll snap a few shots off tonight and post them.

 

. . .yeah, true, as long as that thing is sealed- test it out and see what kind of reaction you get from the engine before droping more $$$'s in it.

So far this thing seems within buget- which is a good thing

grind away my brother! make it happen!!

 

scalbert i want to offer you one heads up...your unit seems tall...your gonna test it eventually by launching hard ...if you engine torques enough you could end up needing a new hood....or worse implode the unit and have an uncontrolable WOT situation

 

I haven't taken any pics of the cut down unit, it is noticeable shorter now, by about 1/2" - 3/4". Tonight the sides will be dropped another 3/8" with the center 1/8" so that both the front and rear will drop off from the center about 1/4".

I'll post the pics tonight when it is ready, both of and on the car.

 

 

I never got to put it on the car except for fitting. I found that one area had to be dropped even further for nearly a 1/2". But I have finally got it set and now there is over 1/4" clearance all over. I also got the lid shaped for the most part but it still isn't attached. I had to pull everything apart to cut down the pieces (too much to grind) so it is reset and drying with more JB Weld (I love that stuff...).

Tomorrow I'll cut the lid and set it on the chamber. But that is all before some quick testing hopefully on Saturday. The lid will be set and everything should be dry and ready to go Saturday morning.

Below are the pics, the lid is being cut down but will retain a slight over hang but not as much as shown below. Also, everything is not aligned correctly in these pics, I straightened and braced it after the pics were taken and smoothed the edges.

 

that is looking nice. really nice

 

OMG, that is excellent.

Oh, and definitely once you've tested it, but before you permanently weld it, get the top engraved with something cool like the Acura symbole or whatever.

 

Scalbert,

I guess you need to smooth out a lot of the cuts inside the original cover, notice that those tabs below the median divider. Only the vetical divider should be there...

Think about having a smoth flow inside the RES.

 

It is somewhat decieving in the pics as all of the support 'tabs' have been removed and all edges smoothed, within reason. I'll try to snap some pics with the unit upside down.

 

. . .it's alive, ALIVE!!

Saturdays testing phase could change alot of things here, quite possibly for the better.

The best of luck man!

 

i apologize for asking if you've already said scalbert, but what thickness metal did you use?

also, very impressive, nice to see somebody strapping a pair on and trying something new.

best of luck ...

 

The walls are all 1/8" aluminum with the lid being 1/16". I was going to use 1/8" for the lid but I got the 1/16" material for free so what the heck, plus it is easier to cut (not that any of this aluminum is hard).

 

OK, I just got the lid cut, bent correctly and now setting for the night. All should be dry in the morning ready for testing. I have the test plan ready, to help speed the process I will put the car in 2nd and do pull from a stand still to redline recording the Gs at 3000, 4500 and 6000 RPM along with the measured peak HP.

Body squat shouldn't be a factor since a 2nd gear start should be very boring. But hopefully this will give an idea of percentage gains, if any.

Anyway, here are the pics of the finished test piece. It is rough but if all goes well it will be cleaned up. I trimmed the corners of the lid and rounded then for a little bit better look. Oh yea, there is at least 1/4" clearance all around.

 

WHen are you testing today?

 

Pics on the car and more info to follow:

 

Testing didn't go very well, or at least not yet. I installed it and cranked the car and everything was fine. But once it got fully warmed there was a vacuum leak as noticed by the very erratic idle. But I did manage to drive it quickly and make a few pulls with and without the RES.

BTW, the leak did go away once the stock RES was back on so now I need to track it down on my cover.

In the couple of pulls I did the power was nearly identical to stock. I put the weight in at 3800 on the GTech Pro and made some standing start pulls in 2nd gear to red line. All readings were within 1 HP of 250. So the current RES had no affect whatsoever.

However, I didn't lose power even with this vacuum leak which is still somewhat encouraging. I hope to find time today and track down the leak and modify the unit so as to allow more torque on the bolts (three were loose when I got back which may have been the source of the leak). Then I'll try and test it again tomorrow.

The real question is if the vacuum leak could cause noticeable power loss?? I would suspect that the very nature of the resonance system would be affected if it were to leak. Hopefully I'll find more tomorrow.

 

I think you will be hard pressed to find a noticeable difference in power without dynoing your car with stock and custom manifolds.

ps - Do you have Comptech headers? I forgot to ask that on page one.

 

Yes, CAI, pulleys and headers.

One other thing I tested again with the stock cover was where the peak is measured by the GTech Pro, it comes in right at redline. If if let off just before 7k revs the reading is lower than if I hit the rev limiter. So this won't be even a slight indication of the power gains, if any...

One other thought, I might try to do 0 - 60 pulls but in 2nd gear only. This might provide a better indication of the total power gain; again, if there is any.

I will still do a full dyno session, I just wanted a quick test first.

 

Oh well, so much for figuring out the gains on a stock car.

 

I'll just swap out for the stock parts real quick.

But really, when the dyno session is ready I would love to have someone from the Atlanta area with a stock CL-S on hand (maybe even a CL-P) to try out also. This swap is all to easy so all I need is the car present.

 

We Need to get a Group of Atlanta / Chattanooga Folks Together ! I'd love to help with the comparison, but I have Header Mod ! Anyone else from this area ?

 

Damn, wish I was. I just took my headers, and CAI off (real quick.. LOL.) Sold them to fellow board memebers. I'd love to lend a hand on this.... oh well, I'm sure you'll find someone close to help out.

Fantastic job Scalbert. You are my new found hero!

Good luck - Jim

 

im going to be in savannah next weekend but for a conference at Georgia Southern Univ. wish i could definitely lend a hand since i am stock.

 

I appreciate the help but that is still a four hour drive from Georgia Southern. That might be a bit too much especially coming from south Florida. Thanks though...

 

i forgot...im not coming up from south florida.....i am at UF in gainesville

 

I just ran new tests but this time did 0 - 60 pulls in 2nd gear only. Although I was impressed with the times the current RES yielded zero gain.

All times for both with and without the RES came in at an average of 7.08 seconds, which isn't too shabby since it was a 2nd gear pull.

What I am really surprised about is the lack of difference, either positive or negative. I expected to see some difference even if it was for the worse. So as it stands right now the RES (guess it really can be called that as nothing was enhanced) acted no differently than the stock cover.

Now what?? I am going to reshape the system this week and keep the same contours of the stock system, just increased in height. This should be easy enough to do and take little time; ready for testing by next weekend. Also, in the mean time I'll try and figure out why there is no difference.

Oh well, it has been fun albeit disappointing.

 

I too find it quite odd that you aren't losing either....I think you much be on the right track tho, otherwise I would think that losses would surely be present...

 

from this picture of the original SEMA pic, it looks taller than the one you have made now Scalbert.

 

Steve,

Just was searching for the Syncivic RES in a comparo of your work... Does it look like theres a secondary gasket on the bottom here?



looks like ~1/8th.... ? garolite maybe ? Or are my eyes deceiving me?