New_cl_owner?

I'm in the market for a new car, and I test drove the CL Type-S today. Even though this was my first test drive, suffice to say I don't think I'm going to be test driving any other cars.

So to take the next step I wanted some advice -- what are the prices for the new CL Type-S that some of you have recently paid?

This'll help me be well-informed when I go into the dealership.

Appreciate the help!

tw1112

Moving this over to the Car Talk forum. You will get more responses there.

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Tw1112
CL 3.0 '98 - Cleared bumper, Hiper/Piaa/Polarg bulbs all around, PIAA 1700x fogs, AEM CAI, V1, and Mugen Pedals.

• My CL
• LA Autoshow
• SoCal Meet

uu

if it were a cls with navigation, ask for a out of door(include tax, license, freight) price of $30000, if without navigation, 28000, but you might want to add a few if your state has a high tax. Remember it is the out of door price, never just ask for the car price which is just as useless as MSRP/Invoice, etc.

good luck.

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2001 Stock Black/Black CL Type S
since 11/29/00
1000+ miles now and climbing

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

Check the internet sites like carprices.com or carsdirect.com, etc. They are quoting prices around $600 above invoice. Use that as a bargaining tool when you go to the dealer. If they can't beat it, walk out and buy your car online!!



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1998 Iced Blue CL 3.0 ** Some mods, but who cares, I want a Type-S!!

Moderator - 1st Gen Forum

Email: juniorbean@acura-cl.com

Acura S

I know where you can get a Gold CL out the door for 30k maybe even a little better...if interested let me know

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Sundance,Navi,
TAG ACURA S,
Spoiler, mflaps, wheel well trim, dark dark tint, nose mask, lead foot

SLAMCLTYPES

there is a gold one with 2500 miles for 29,000 out the door at my dealer its brand new.

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THE LOWER I GET THE MORE YOU SWEAT

JRock

I testdrove about ten cars and the CL-S was the only one I absolutely loved. Hopefully I'll be able to buy one soon.

I want black but it's a PITA to keep clean. Maybe silver.

I wonder what I can get the dealer down to for a silver '01 Type S....

Bullet-TypeS

I'd suggest this tactic...it helped me find a better price on the car and got me about $1300 more for my trade-in.

Step 1: Go to one dealer and start out asking for the car at invoice plus the cost of options you want. They'll try to say they can't do it that low and will quote you a price somewhere around &500-600 over invoice + options and taxes. Have them write it down on the back of their business card and then say you'll have to think about it.

Step 2: Take the card to another dealer and start the same way. If the dealer starts the same rap, pull out the card and say you'll have to beat this price. Have them write their deal on the back of their card and so on and so on until you find a deal you like.

I bought my CLS in January 01 and paid $29,290 including all the options in my signature, + tax and transfer. By now i'd suspect (realistically) you could get a non-nav CLS for about $30000 out the door (final price with taxes, etc.) with most of dealer available options.

Best of luck,
B-TS

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Bullet-TypeS
'01 Acura CL Type S
San Marino Red/Spoiler/ Mud guards/Fenderwell trim/Wheel locks/Front-end cover/ PIAA 19173 Ion Yellow bulbs/CAI (coming soon)...

alex2364

Here's a better idea. Ask for their business car and write down your own price on the back. Then go to the 2nd dealer and pretend the 1st dealer actuallly wrote it. They'll never know!

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Alex

[This message has been edited by alex2364 (edited 03-01-2001).]

uu

search the forum, I remember some guy from this forum acutally had two different dealers verbally fighting over phone while he waiting for them on the side to low-bid on his cls...

funny

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2001 Stock Black/Black CL Type S
since 11/29/00
1000+ miles now and climbing

New_cl_owner?

I like the idea where I write my own number on their business card and take it to another dealer -- lol!

And they say car salespeople cannot be trusted...

I'm going to try and ask for an out-of-door price of 28K -- I'm sure they'll hem and haw and settle on something higher. BTW, is the definition of an out-of-door price inclusive of taxes, title, registration, etc.?

juniorbean

iTrader: (5)

Yes, out of door is everything, tax, tag, title, etc.

Don't hold your breath on getting the car out of the door for $28k. The invoice on the car alone is around $28,300, plus you have to add tax etc. Even if your sales tax is 6%, you'd have to add another $1700 to the invoice price, and that's just tax. You may be able to get out of the door for close to $29k, but I think you're really reaching on the $28k thing. I mean, just look at SLAMCLTYPES' post, that car has 2500 miles and is gold, which is the cheapest color to buy, and it's $29k......

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1998 Iced Blue CL 3.0 ** Some mods, but who cares, I want a Type-S!!

Moderator - 1st Gen Forum

Email: juniorbean@acura-cl.com

[This message has been edited by juniorbean (edited 03-01-2001).]

thholr

you could try using stoneage.com it lets you send a pricing request to as many dealers as you like and let them fight over the price. I got mine (non-nav) CL type S new for 29K driveout. I got lucky. Pitched them against each other and it worked



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2001 Acura CL Type S

zippy1

It really depends on where you live on the price you get. I just bought a CL-S w/wheel locks & mud guards for 28,400 + tax/tags (I live in southern CT) and getting that price was not easy. I used practically all the internetsites(stoneage,autoweb,autobytel,carsdirec t,invoicedealers, etc). All they do is refer you to a local dealer who then calls you (they almost never send you a quote by E-mail). The lowest quote I got was out of state in NJ (thanks Jens) for 28000 + tax/tags. When I asked the local dealers to match it they all basically told me to go buy it in NJ and these were dealers that had quite a few on the lot. Since NJ was a little further than I wanted to go I paid a little extra for the convience of buying local. I dont think any dealer would give you the car for 28,000 OTD other than in NH wheres theres no sales tax.

kmcobra

Does anyone lease? I know it's harder to mod when you lease vs. buy, but sometimes it's easier to get a good deal. I'm thinking of getting a silver CL-S and the lease cost per month will be $430 (includes tax) for $995 down, for 42 months and 15,000 miles per year allowance. Based on the current residual and money factors, I figure this is pretty close to invoice pricing that it's based on. I want to add 35% tint and the dealer says that may be a problem because Acura/Honda Finance won't approve it because if they auction at lease end it can technically be illegal in many states where they'd try to sell it. Is that BS? Otherwise, I don't think leasing is a bad idea since these cars hold their value pretty good.

Acura S

I don't care how anybody works the numbers, words the contract, or offers incentives a lease is never and will never be as good a deal IN THE END as a purchase....

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Sundance,Navi,
TAG ACURA S,
Spoiler, mflaps, wheel well trim, dark dark tint, nose mask, lead foot

kmcobra

Somebody famous once said, "Buy things that appreciate, rent things that depreciate".

Acura S

somebody with financial sense said build equity when you buy, and build someone elses equity when you rent....

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Sundance,Navi,
TAG ACURA S,
Spoiler, mflaps, wheel well trim, dark dark tint, nose mask, lead foot

jpgolf14

i bought my cl type s for 29.2. the price included everything but pa sales tax. included a spoiler, mud flaps, wheel locks, bra. if i remember my numbers, that was 500 above dealer invoice. i first priced cars over the internet, got a quote, and used it to leverage the local dealers. my local dealer got within $200 of the internet quote, so i bought there.

good luck

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2001 red cl type s, no navi, black interior, wing, mudflaps, purchased, 12-00

ATLCL-S

That is true if it was something that stays the same or appreciate such as a house, but on cars that depreciate, for the most part, it's not that bad of idea. Unless you plan on keeping the car for a LONG time..



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2001 Type-S
Satin Silver/Ebony
also 97 Dakar yellow M3 and 99 Tacoma

kmcobra

Acura S - You're buying a car here, not a house, or a diamond, or gold coins. If you think you're building equity in your CL-S, I've got some swampland in Florida you may be interested in (no offense to our FLA friends). What do you think your CL-S will be worth in 4 years? I'll bet you can't get more than about 52% of the original MSRP, based on the "financial geniuses" that figure this stuff out for a living. Not trying to be argumentative, but you don't build equity in cars - they are designed to wear out (if you use it and don't store it, different issue).

I'll grant you that many people feel uncomfortable leasing, that's OK. But some people want a new vehicle every 3-4 years and don't want to take a beating if they bought via conventional financing and try to sell. I've seen and heard of people being "upside down" with loads of negative equity when they try to sell in year 3 or 4 of a 5 or 6 year loan. Pro's and con's both ways, it's the individuals choice in the end isn't it?

Acura S

first of all leases were designed for people like you, people that believe if you word it differently everything will be fine and now I can afford that big new car. you are one of two people, your either leasing and taking my opinion personal, or your a car salesman that believes what the guys that are pocketing all the money made from the lease are feeding you. do your research son and dont try and explain yourself to me. if you wanna rent that car and give it back for nothing (or most of the time actually have to pay to give it back) then you go right ahead. AS FAR AS YOUR SWAMP LAND you can stick that straight up your lease-whole

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Sundance,Navi,
TAG ACURA S,
Spoiler, mflaps, wheel well trim, dark dark tint, nose mask, lead foot

[This message has been edited by Acura S (edited 03-01-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Acura S (edited 03-01-2001).]

Acura S

many pro's and con's both ways and yes it is the individuals choice but what you must keep in mind is that your so called "financial geniuses" can always work the numbers in their favor not the consumers. these people are in the business to make as much money as possible. bottom line is the lease was designed to put more people in more cars......by the way you lease lovers what kind of interest rate is your lease sucking out of ya?

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Sundance,Navi,
TAG ACURA S,
Spoiler, mflaps, wheel well trim, dark dark tint, nose mask, lead foot

[This message has been edited by Acura S (edited 03-01-2001).]

New_cl_owner?

Weeell,

I must say I agree with kmcobra on this whole leasing vs buying debate. I leased my last car, and plan on leasing the CL-S. I'm hopefully looking for a $400 monthly payment, though that may be a little optimistic. I don't think people who lease are at a disadvantage while negotiating -- the first thing to do is to settle on a price and take things from there.

My dealer called back and said that he had a demo red CL-S with spoiler with a $1000 mi. on it that he would give to me for $29K. I'm sure I could get it lower, but my understanding of a demo model is that it is the test-drive version which everyone drives into the ground. I'm hesitant in getting a car like that.

New_cl_owner?

As for the whole leasing vs. buying issue, I've found people as divided as any person whit an opinion on Pepsi/Coke, Nike/Reebok, Yankees/Mets, etc.

I think what it comes down to is personal preference, but more importantly monthly cash flow. Coming out of college I wanted a new car, but could not afford one, so I leased my current Honda. I am paying some $200 less than if I had bought it. Those extra $200 a month have helped me pay of credit card debt, invest in the market, and save money as I settled into my job.

Now I'm thinking of leasing the CL-S. If I buy, I'd have to put down a significant downpayment (some $3000 more than I plan to) and would still have to pay some $250 more were I to buy the car. With the money I'm going to be saving with leasing, I plan to put a nice little downpayment on a house.

Some people like the idea of owning a car, but a car is not an investment, which by definition has the abilility to gain OR lose value. A car will ALWAYS lose value, unless it is 50 years old and a classic.

Personal preference. Giants/Jets, Honda/Toyota, McDonalds/Burger King, etc, etc, etc

Davideo

That's true in Jersey - no tint allowed on the side windows (rear and back windows only)

moomaster_99

Leasing is an option if you want a new car every few years...fair enough...you have limited miles..so the car is of limited use. Leasing is advantageous if you think you can earn more money by investing that cash you put in a down payment than what the cost of the balloon price will be. But then again...if you don't make enough money to pay the balloon payment...then you are left with the option of taking out a loan....at about 11-13% for a used car for 12 or 24 months...or you can walk away and pay for the extra mileage you rack up (and believe me, when you own a CL-S you will rack up the mileage.) and have nothing to show for it. Seems to me, if you think you'll drive your car for more than 7 years...it would be a better idea to buy.... I would show you if I could illustrate a chart...

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2001 Cl-S Black on Black with Navigation
Black Tint all around (15%~45%)
Weapon-R Dragon Filter
Weapon-R Coil-Overs
Koni Adjustable Struts
Comptech Sway Bars
(sooner than I thought...)
Comptech Headers

kmcobra

Moomaster, agree with you on the time factor. Seems that about 7 years is "break even" for lease vs. buy. The other consideration is that once you get on a ~3 year lease cycle it get's hard to break (or easy to keep doing it) if you're happy with a certain manufacturer like Honda/Acura. They will work with you on mileage and wear & tear allowance, waive security deposit, make first month payments, etc. to keep you coming back (the "lease loyalty" stuff we hear about). As long as you don't go crazy on miles or trash it there's usually no problems.

kastegir

I'll have to agree with those that have said it's a preference thing. I have 2 cars, 1 leased and 1 I bought. I was able to buy one car used and get an 8% rate, and it was the car I wanted at the time, and it made sense.

The one I leased, I did becuase I wanted that car at that time and knew I'd want something else in a few years. I didn't want to have the larger payment it would take to buy it, only to potentially be upside down when I went to sell it later.

Depending on how you use the car, and how you feel about having a car payment, leasing is simetimes the right option. My leased Audi A4 (that I got 15k miles a year on the lease on) now only has 14000 miles on it after 2 years (I lived in san francisco for a year and never drove anywhere). Now, I'll be in the position, at the end of the lease, to buy it out and turn around and sell it at a profit. It's an option though, and if I want something else, I can trade it in against something. My fiance loves it, so I'll probably buy the lease out and let her drive it.

Meanwhile, I'll trade in my 98 eclipse spyder gs-t on a CL-S and lease it. I think I can get the payments around 400, and if I'm still in love with it after 3 years, maybe I'll keep it. If not, I can walk away and get something else. But, for now, it's the best new car I've tested in my price range. :-)

New_cl_owner?

Kastegir,

From the time I first started this topic, I've had a chance to test drive a couple of other cars, some competitors to the CL-S, some not. I tested out the Lexus IS 300, the VW Passat GLX, the BMW 325i, as well as the regular CL. The only one that I felt truly showed better characteristics than the CL-S was the BMW, which was fully loaded when I tested it. It was therefore also completely out of my price range.

Keep us updated on what lease price you are able to negotiate. I'll be getting ready to head in to the dealership in the next week or so to do my own haggling, and I want a monthly price of $400 (while not compromising the sales price, interest rate, etc.).

By the way, I think there is a significant difference between the CL and the CL-S. The latter just seemed to handle so much better.

kastegir

new_CL-owner:

I'll keep you posted. I'm goin to try to get in to deal this weekend. I also test drove a few cars. I looked at the BMW 325 and 330, the Volvo C70, the Passat GLX and I currently lease an Audi A4 2.8 quattro. I also drove an Audi S4 (a friend just got one).
IMHO, the CL-S stacks up well for the price, and offers the best balance of features and performance. In order to get the equipment I wanted in the 330, the sticker will approach $45k, though the performace is clearly there. It's a little small inside tho. The S4 is around $42k. Both are much more tilted toward performance than luxury, and more than I'm willing to spend right now. Don't get me wrong, I love my A4, but it's a different car. My fiance is very happy with it now. The 325 just didn't offer the punch I was looking for, and to get it loaded with equipment, it was also quite a bit more expensive. Overall I was underwhelmed bu the C70. It just didn't feel good to drive it. The seats were really comfy tho.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

kastegir

Well, wish me luck. I'm going into Santa Monica Acura tomorrow. I've done some calling around and they have the car I'm looking for. Cl-S Black, with parchment interior with Nav. Hopefully, we'll be able to deal.

BTW, I found a really good review of the CL at:
http://www.carseverything.com/reviews/review.html/00053

New_cl_owner?

May the car gods look favorably upon you as you make your purchase.

Driving in to work today I had a silver CL-S zoom by me. I can't wait to go into a dealership for my own purchase. My only problem is that I can't decide on a color. I've owned a black car already, and don't want to repeat. The silver and the red look nice, but I can't decide b/w them. Argh, the indecision!

kastegir

Well strike one at Santa Monica Acura. They refused to budge off retail and they (all of the sudden) decided my trade was worth $1500 less than it was yesterday.

I went in last night and talked to the sales manager, told him ewhat I wanted and what I needed to get out of my 98 eclipse spyder gst. He said it shouldn't be a problem, but they were closing. I offered to come back today after work and do the deal.

When I got there tonight, not only was the car I wanted "missing", but my trade was suddenly worth $1500 less, and they didn't even want to talk about it. They just told me they didn't see how we could possibly work a deal.

I called Keys Acura, told the sales guy there what I wanted for my car, what I was looking for. He said he was sure we could work a deal. I'll go out there later this week and see if we can't put something together.

Anyone got experience with Keyes Acura in Van Nuys? They said they have 60 CLs on the lot and need to move some by the end of the month and the end of the quarter (both this weekend).

Hope this works out better.

efx

I bought my silver cl-s at keyes acura a couple of weeks ago and got a very good deal. Got a hold of a ad in the los angeles times for $3500 of msrp from cerritos I think it was and they matched it, so I bought it there because its closer to home. That price may not be available any more, you know how dealers are.

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2001 Acura 3.2CL Type-S
Wheel locks
Mud guards

The Green Hornet

Long winded but here goes:

When you are purchasing a vehicle, there are 3 prices to remember: MSRP or "sticker" (if anyone pays sticker, they should snap their Prozac pills in half), dealer invoice AND dealer holdback. Holdback is the amount of money the factory reimburses the dealer to help offset the dealer's cost of financing the car until it is sold (yes, dealers "buy" the cars from the factory). Holdbacks are different for every make and model of car. Acura CL's are 2% of the MSRP. Here's how you calculate it: Take MSRP and multiply it by 2%. Take that figure and SUBTRACT it from invoice. This will give you a true picture of what the dealer is paying for the car. Add $200-$400 to that price and that should be in the area of what you pay, not including TT&L. You're getting a good price and the dealer is making a decent profit (dealers are entitled to make a profit, but they're not entitled to gouge you).

Another helpful tip. If possible, deal directly with the Sales Manager and/or the Fleet Manager. I called and made an appointment with the Fleet Manager (whom I met at a car show), and I told him that I wanted to deal directly with him and that if I was passed off to another salesperson, I'd walk immediately. What that does for you is two things: First, it eliminates the aggrivation of you going through several "layers" of salespeople. Handing a customer off like a football to one salesperson after another is a tactic designed to wear you down. Second, you don't have to deal with that nonsense of a salesperson running in and out of the office to "ask their manager", thereby cutting the negotiating process time way down because the sales manager already knows his bottom line. Fortunately, most Acura and other high-end dealers can't play as many games with their customers because it will reflect poorly on their JD Power scores, which is crucial to them.

Also remember that sometimes, a dealer won't budge from sticker because they know that there are some buffoons out there who'll fork over the cash because they want to say they have this car first (as is the case with the new TL Type S). Some even have the audacity to markup their cars. My advice in that case is to get the hell out of the dealership and wait six months and then buy the car. You'll save yourself at least $3000.

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2001 CL Type S, Nighthawk Black, Parchment Interior, Non-Nav, Rear Wing, Tint

gvtire

If you don't mind driving try South Coast Acura in Costa Mesa. Ask for George. They had the lowest price out of over 15 dealers, I went to. I've been very happy with the way I was treated, and the follow-up is great.

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Beat the Bruins

New_cl_owner?

OK, so is anyone reading this message board from around the Fairfax, VA area? I was thinking of going into Pohanka Acura and asking for an out-of-the-door price of 29K.

Sound unreasonable?

I'm curious as to what you guys may have paid for yours in nearby dealerships. It'll help me negotiate when I'm being double-teamed and suffering psychological warfare attacks at the dealership.

Thanks.

honey2001CL

Is that for a Type S with Navi?


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White/Ebony CL Type S with Navi

NOVAwhiteTypeS

may be for a type S w/out navi. but You HAVE TO, I mean MUST get the navi cause its just PIMP. and it works great in NOVA/MD/DC


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CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Cargo Net/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter. Comptech Springs. Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers, Comptech Sways, Eurolite Xenon Crystal high beams.
AEM CAI once they decide to make the dame thing.
235/40/17's or 225/45/17's once I found out which one works for me.

gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load. preheader.