Daskal

I've just passed the 50K mile mark on my 2003 CL/S Automatic and I'd like to change the plugs and coils myself which means removing the s/c so I can get to the front cylinders. I had the s/c installed by a local speed shop back in 2003 when the car was new. I've done work on my cars in the past but since a s/c is not something stock I'm a bit hesitant. Looking over the docs in appears that all I have to do is loosen the belt, remove the 2 bolts near the pulley, unfasten the two flex tubes and finally remove the 4 bolts that hold the main body to the engine mount. One of those bolts is on the bottom and I'm not sure how hard it is to get to. So I'm basically looking for some encouragement and tips on this endeavor.

I've had this car for over 15 years and used it as a second car. On the fence if I will keep it or not. It's still in great shape. You can Google Chaptorial's 2003 Acura CL if you want to see it back in 2003. It hasn't change much since then.

Daskal

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^ Just curious. So you bought Chaptorial's car or you are Chaptorial? Because I remember you, if you are.

Removing the blower is a piece if cake.

Daskal

Chaptorial is my son. He picked out the car, paid for it, and decided on the mods. The pics of the shocks and springs were taken in the same house we have lived in for 40 years. The car was always registered in my name for insurance purposes. We shared the car on a 90/10 basis with me being the 10. What's ironic is he basically followed in his dad's footsteps. In 1969 I bought a brand new 69 candy apple red, 351 4spd mach I. Just a few weeks later I modified it with a Hurst shifter, traction bars, performance clutch disk/pressure plate, Edelbrock manifold and Holly 4-barrel. Had a great time with it until I got orders for SEA in 1973. Sold it before I shipped out. So I guess it runs in the family. Now he has a place of his own with a new Jeep Grand Cherokee in his own name. The Type S is now mine 100%.

Just under a year ago the infamous Honda A/T transmission problem struck and the car had to be towed. It had around 49K miles on it. Because of the low mileage, good condition, no accidents and many mods I decided to spend $3K to rebuild the tranny. It's been about a year since that and no problems with it. The transmission shop here on Long Island came highly recommended (included 2-year warranty) so I'm confident the work was properly done. Separately, the Big Brake disk and pads were well worn and instead of spending the money on replacing those I still had the OEM brakes that only had less than 1000 miles from 15 years ago. I put them back on about 2 months ago. They are working just fine. Last week one of the front springs broke so I decided to replace them with a set of Gabriel Ultra Ready mounts. I know it's a step down from the originals but for $150 and easy installation it's good enough for now. Now I'm getting misfire codes. It's probably one coil as I've already checked and cleaned the EGR passages and the car isn't running all that bad either.

So that's why I'm thinking of selling but before I do I would like to remove the codes. By the way, the speed shop that originally did the Comptech work gave us back all the parts they replaced so another option would be to remove the s/c, and just keep the fuel mods, headers and exhaust. But I think that option would best be saved if the s/c ever gives out.

Getting back to the actual work. Is what I described in my original post correct? Any tips on that bottom bolt or is it that easy?

Thanks,
Daskal

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
Understood, thanks for the clarification.

If you attempt to remove the S/C'er, it's best to have help. Because it weighs around 35+- and it can do a number on your back. I've summarized the steps of removal below, anyone can do it. I was intimidated, my first time; however, it really is not bad.

There are two ways to remove the S/C'er:

1. Remove the blower brace, and its associated nomenclature, at the transmission lift bracket.
   
2. Remove the one flange bolt, from underneath the blower, that fastens the blower brace to the S/C’er.
   
3. Remove or loosen the clamps that hold the silicone coupler from the intake elbow. Pull it away for clearance. I usually pull the silicone coupler away from the intake elbow onto the blower outlet. I usually remove the intake inlet elbow, from the IM, to give a little wiggle room when pulling the blower; however, the blower can be removed with it in place.
   
4. Remove the throttle body and its connections at the blower inlet.
   
5. Remove the blower belt at the pulley.
   
6. Remove the two alternator bracket bolts.
   
7. The only thing holding the blower to the car, at this point, should be the blower bracket fastened to the front head, at the cam cover thrust plate. You can either remove those 4 hex head bolts, individually, like the CT instructions state and lift the blower from the bracket, as it remains on the front head. (Removing those hex bolts are a PIA, IMHO. It is also risky because one could easily break the seal at the blower drive shaft and the blowers internal oil reservoir, as warned in the CT instructions.) OR, you can take the blower bracket and S/C’er, in mass, by removing the EGR valve, so you can get at the 2 flange bolts that secure the blower bracket to the front head. You will also need to remove that additional 10mm bolt that passes through the blower bracket spacer into the front head, as well. Then lift the blower out, maneuvering the blower bracket from the front head. It will be easier, on you and your back, if you have two people to perform this process. The downside to removing the S/C'er and blower bracket, in mass, is that when you go to reinstall it, you have to maneuver the blower bracket back into the cam cover area, being careful not to pinch or roll the O-ring when installing. If you damage it, oil will leak from this area. It's good to have a spare handy should the O-ring get damaged. In addition, you have to be careful tightening the 2 metal flange bolts, because they can strip-out the aluminum threads into the head, so beware.

If you have any other questions, ask away.

Daskal

zeta,
Excellent instructions, thank you. I'm in agreement with you on going with removing the s/c with the bracket still attached. I'm also in favor of removing additional parts to give more working room. Therefore I have the following questions:

1) Having problems finding the camshaft cap seal that you suggest I have a spare. Is it in fact the same seal as the OEM cap?
2) Having similar problem with a gasket for the Intake elbow to IM
3) Same with a gasket for the throttle body to blower inlet
Maybe the gaskets can be reused? EGR gasket is no problem as I've found them readily available.
Also I've attached a drawing of the bracket and bolts. Are these the ones I need to carefully torque? Do you use a torque wrench?

Regards,
Daskal

Daskal

zeta,
In addition to the above questions, why do you have to remove the blower brace and remove the flange bolt as well? Wouldn't one or the other suffice?

Thanks,
Daskal

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I agree. Perhaps it would be prudent to place step (4 in front of step (1. That way, if you remove the top cover of the CT Ice Box; its tubing and then the throttle body, that will give you the room to get 'deep' down to the transmission lift bracket and underneath the S/C'er rotor housing to get that 10mm flange bolt mentioned in (2.

Yes, it is the same seal. In fact, when I received my S/C'er kit from CT, back in 2005, they provided the seal in Honda packaging.

#15 on the link below:

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2003...-cylinder-head

These two are the same, so if you desire, purchase two for insurance, just in case.

#5 on the link below:

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2003...hrottle-body-2

Yes, it's possible to 'reuse' those gaskets; however, after being on the car for many years, it's likely they will tear upon removal, although, not gauranteed.

#2 on the link below is the EGR gasket:

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2003...er-pump-sensor


Yes, those are the two I mentioned. The problem is is that there is not a lot of room in that area when it comes time to torque with a proper T-wrench. Therefore, I usually wrenched the tightness by feel, over the years when I had to remove the S/C'er for maintenance, much like yourself. Thus, when I have to do the T-Belt, probably in Dec 19 or Jan 20, I plan on heli-coiling those two cam cover bolt holes because they are stripped now. This came about, the stripping of the front head bolt holes, the last time I installed the blower after having it rebuilt after 100K miles on the unit.

Just thought I would mention the following:
Since you have a low mileage Auto CL-S, with practically a new transmission, you may want to consider just removing the blower kit, in its entirety, and convert the car back to stock with all the OEM parts the speed shop returned to you? Logic being, once you resolve your 'misfires' & perform maintenance and such, the car would be a lot easier to sell without the blower kit. Then you could list the blower kit here in the forums 'black market' section. Someone would surely buy it because CT is no longer in business, so these kits are rare. Keep in mind, if you consider this route, it's very important to disassemble and provide as much of the kit as possible. Especially the alternator mount bracket, front head blower bracket, the tranny lift blower brace nomenclature, FPR and its hoses, even the ESM black box et al. I believe your automatic S/C'er kit has an extra part that facilitates the use of the VSA system, at the throttle body, as well? The more complete the kit, the higher the odds that your sale will be successful with the price you list.. They don't make this 'stuff' anymore, so theoretically, you could recoup some of your money spent back in '02-03 for the kit. I can provide the CT parts checklist for my 6-speed kit if you are interested. That would give you a starting point.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

It makes maneuvering the S/C'er unit easier to handle and lift, while you concentrate on getting the Blower bracket 'out and away' from the head. You will see what I mean.

Daskal

zeta,
I've thought about the suggestion of removing the s/c and returning it to stock. That's not something I would attempt so I would have to have someone do it.

I've searched for complete used s/c sets and found some have been selling for at the highest $2,250 on Acurazine back in 2011/2012. To tell you the truth, I would be willing to sell the whole car as is, with the original stock parts, for just another $1,000 above that. That recovers the cost of the tranny rebuild and the buyer can decide if they want to keep the s/c and fix the misfire codes. Both my son and I have had a great time with the car all these years and I would like to see someone who can appreciate it for a few more years and then maybe put it back to stock at a later date.

Regards,
Daskal

Daskal

zeta,
I've thought about the suggestion of removing the s/c and returning it to stock. That's not something I would attempt so I would have to have someone do it.

I've searched for complete used s/c sets and found some have been selling for at the highest $2,250 on Acurazine back in 2011/2012. To tell you the truth, I would be willing to sell the whole car as is, with the original stock parts, for just another $1,000 above that. That recovers the cost of the tranny rebuild and the buyer can decide if they want to keep the s/c and fix the misfire codes. Both my son and I have had a great time with the car all these years and I would like to see someone who can appreciate it for a few more years and then maybe put it back to stock at a later date.

Regards,
Daskal

zeta

iTrader: (1)

^
You should list it on the black market. For that price, mileage interval, and power adding equipment, not to mention the rebuilt tranny, that unicorn should sell reasonably quick.
Just follow the black market format given, to list your car for sale, and provide plenty of pictures. Good Luck!

Daskal

zeta,
I may still remove & reinstall the s/c and do what I need to do to clear the misfires yet. Not to perhaps get a better deal but just for my own satisfaction. Wish it was summer or I lived where you do because it's getting cold up here in NY and my garage is not heated nor large enough to work on the car without it sticking a few feet out the back. I'll have to decide pretty soon.

Thanks again,
Daskal

zeta

iTrader: (1)

That's the spirit.

Keep in mind, to enable the car to run, with the S/C'er removed, you can temporarily connect the throttle body to the intake manifold. If you have #6 air flow tube and #10 tcs control mounting rubber, you might be able to connect the air filter, in the ice box, a drive it around as you work to resolve your misfire issues. Not sure if the opening on the air flow tube would fit the filter in the ice box, though. get what I'm saying?

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2003...ir-flow-tube-2

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2003...hrottle-body-2


You already know this; however, if you proceed with this work, you want to make sure all issues and 'check engine' codes have resolved before reinstallation of the blower, that way your hard work is not in vain. Once again, If you reconnect all the throttle body / tcs control valve (#9 on the second link) electrics and associated vacuum lines and such, you should be able to run the car in order to facilitate your maintenance and correction of your misfire issues.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Daskel, has the timing belt service been performed?
The requirement is 105K miles or 7 years, whichever occurs first.

Daskal

No. I'm well under the mileage but certainly not the 7 year mark.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Just a caveat FYI. Be aware, that if you perform all your work, resolving all your issues, then attempt to market your car, a savvy informed buyer may know to inquire about the timing belt service on these 'interference' engines. Therefore, even though you stated above, what you are willing to settle for, you may have to settle for less then the recovery cost of the tranny rebuild because the original OEM timing belt, water pump, and associated pullies are over 15 years old, irregardless of actual miles. Especially on a S/C'ed car which is expected to be driven harder than a stock one. Of course, that's not written in stone; however, a current TB service is very important. Just passing along years of observation, here on this forum, about things people speak of.