Hello everyone,
been dealing with the random misfire problem for a while now.... Did a lot of things to try and fix it (new factory plugs, checked all coils, exhaust valve adjusting, new egr, etc) and still haven't been able to fix the cl.
Finally got around to doing a dry/wet compression test and here are the results.
Dry:
#1 = 225
#2 = 150
#3 = 250
#4 = 225
#5 = 200
#6 = 250
Wet:
#1 = didn't test
#2 = 170
#3 = didn't test
#4 = didn't test
#5 = 240
#6 = didn't test

I don't really know what these numbers mean and I would really appreciate if someone could give me some information on if these numbers could indicate what my problem is or if they are an acceptable deviation of the norm. Any positive input would be very helpful. Thank you!

 

"checked all coils"

How did you do this?
When I had recent random misfires on 2 and 5 (so bad I assumed it was a bad tank of gas!), my specialist swapped in some old working coils, and the problem was gone! When I measured the resistance on the good and bad coils (and the set of 6 new Airtex coils from Rockauto), there was no real ohms difference, and certainly nothing to indicate a bad coil...

 

Looking at those numbers your #2 cyl is low on compression. It could mean a few things. Are you burning any oil? Is there any reason you didnt adjust your intake valves?

 

Those numbers are too far of a spread.
people say all cylinders should be within 10% of each other.
if 250 psi is your real high then the lowest should be is 225 psi.

i think you should redo your compression check after resetting your lash correctly.then do a leak down to see where your compression is going if still low.
loss of compression comes from valves not shutting all the way eithher from misadjustment or a burnt valve. or worn rings or cylinder walls or perhaps the worse a hole or crack threw a piston.
i find it weird you only adjusted only half your valves. what do you have them set at?

 

 

I disconnected the coils one by one and noticed that the engine would idle rougher. It was also taken to a shop where I was notified that they were all functioning properly.

 

Yes, I am burning oil. The last oil change showed that I had lost almost 2 liters of oil.
As for the intake valves the shop I went to didn't say adjusting was necessary.

 

Resetting my lash? Sorry :[ I'm not up to par with the mechanical know-how. What does that involve and how should I go about it?
I'll go back to the shop and ask them to redo the test as well as perform a leak down.
The valves were all inspected and what was to be adjusted was determined by the mechanic.
Any j35/36 hybrid gurus want to fly out to Hawaii and build me a new engine? We can drink chi chi's from the coconut after.

 

Did they actually check them or did they just say that they didnt need to be adjusted?

If you are burning oil it sounds like you have issues with the cyl that is the lowest. Either the rings on the piston, or a bent valve and bad valve guide/seal.

 

^ what he said. Looks like the seals on piston 2 is toasted. Time to look for another motor on ebay

 

I was told by the mechanic that all were checked. The shop has been around for a while and has a good reputation so im hoping that I can take their word for it.
Buying motors off ebay would be worth it if they didnt have to get shipped across the pacific :[

 

look on carpart.com

 

thanks for the heads up gnuts. I will check it out, but in the meantime anyone think this might be worth it?
http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/cto/4084128935.html
could swap out a lot of other parts too!

 

That is really cheap for a very low mileage car, jump on it. Probably less than a new engine and labor. You might be about to part out your car or sell it to someone who will and come pretty close to even.

I agree that the compression numbers are spread too far. I'm not sure what they should be. Try doing the test with about 5 good cranks and make sure you sealed the tester into the spark plug hole as tight as you can with your hand. I rented one at a parts store and it worked fine. My Merc. only had about 175psi on each cyl (average after multiple tests on each cylinder) If I had a low test, I re-checked the gauge connection and cranked it again about 5-6 cranks to be sure.

I don't know about adjusting the valves, and I have not done a leak-down test, but I have read a little about it. If you want to salvage the car, then take it to a good shop experienced with Hondas and have them adjust the valves and perform the leak-down test to be sure the engine is bad. If you are burning oil quickly, or visibly, then you most likely have a bad cylinder.

 

my car did this when my CAT was fouled .... BTW I burned oil on the regular (probably what fouled my cat) by it blowing through the EGR see threads on catch can

 

Thanks everyone for the quick and helpful input. Going to go and check out that donor CL tomorrow and hopefully I come back with a parts car!

 

hope you find out the problem. I had similar issues when I lost compression in one of my cylinders from too much fuel and not enough air. Flooded the cylinder. Easier to swap the motor at that point.

 

Hey Matt just keep in mid that the car you are looking at is not a type s. There's no engine bay pic but the interior parts are not correct for a type s. Not sure if yours is a type s or not. Also, I'm going to Hawaii in November for a wedding if you need any parts. Obviously I can't put an engine in my carry on but if that were to help you with shipping costs I'd be glad to help. Anyhow, good luck with solving your issue at hand.