Cold engine + high rpms
Cold engine + high rpms
Just how bad is it for the engine to take the revs into vtec while the engine is still cold?
The other day when I left work I pulled out of the parking lot and there was a car flying up on my ass so I floored it so he wouldn't hit me. I went into vtec in first and then, vtec in second before I reached the speed limit. I ususally wait until its well warmed up to take the revs over 3K, but I have been in this situation a few times now.
The other day when I left work I pulled out of the parking lot and there was a car flying up on my ass so I floored it so he wouldn't hit me. I went into vtec in first and then, vtec in second before I reached the speed limit. I ususally wait until its well warmed up to take the revs over 3K, but I have been in this situation a few times now.
Originally posted by fuzzy02CLS
Why not? I do although it's in the 80's in FL. The temp gauge is in the middle by the time I get on it anyway.
Why not? I do although it's in the 80's in FL. The temp gauge is in the middle by the time I get on it anyway.
Temp gauge isn't oil temp.....it's water temp. I wouldn't get on the car hard, go over 4k, for the first 10mins of operation.
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at least wait for the temp gauge to get in the middle, or about 2-3 mins of driving is enough.
if engine is not warmed up enough and you take the revs high, internal components are not up to optimal operating condition. point is that unnecessary friction has a greater chance to occur in the internal parts. i think properly warming up a car is vital to its long term reliability.
last thing is its not bad to enter vtec when car isnt warmed up yet. vtec is not a special mode. the better way to say this is avoid taking rpms above 4-5k.
if engine is not warmed up enough and you take the revs high, internal components are not up to optimal operating condition. point is that unnecessary friction has a greater chance to occur in the internal parts. i think properly warming up a car is vital to its long term reliability.
last thing is its not bad to enter vtec when car isnt warmed up yet. vtec is not a special mode. the better way to say this is avoid taking rpms above 4-5k.
Originally posted by Fabvsix
NOT good for the transmission fluid ! I wouldn't worry too much about the engine, but the transmission................YES ! Auto or MT
NOT good for the transmission fluid ! I wouldn't worry too much about the engine, but the transmission................YES ! Auto or MT
Originally posted by Fabvsix
NOT good for the transmission fluid ! I wouldn't worry too much about the engine, but the transmission................YES ! Auto or MT
NOT good for the transmission fluid ! I wouldn't worry too much about the engine, but the transmission................YES ! Auto or MT
Originally posted by power3dfx
last thing is its not bad to enter vtec when car isnt warmed up yet. vtec is not a special mode. the better way to say this is avoid taking rpms above 4-5k.
last thing is its not bad to enter vtec when car isnt warmed up yet. vtec is not a special mode. the better way to say this is avoid taking rpms above 4-5k.
Well being that there isn't I can do about it now, I will just try not to do it again in the future. Although I would rather have a little extra wear on the motor than to have the car in the body shop
I've done that a few times, running late for work. Maybe that's why my car has had poor 1/4 times?
Originally posted by spdy0001
Well being that there isn't I can do about it now, I will just try not to do it again in the future. Although I would rather have a little extra wear on the motor than to have the car in the body shop
Well being that there isn't I can do about it now, I will just try not to do it again in the future. Although I would rather have a little extra wear on the motor than to have the car in the body shop
Let's see...
Engine oil has not reached its normal operating viscosity, which means it's not protecting your engine.
The components (cylinder heads, rods, etc.) and the block are still cold, and under sudden temperature rise or high RPM's, it could crack. Maybe not badly, but it'll get hairline fractures which will, over time, develop into bigger fractures, thus robbing you of power, fuel economy, and ultimately, money.
Seals still don't have full protection due to the oil still not being up to its normal viscosity. Pour some cold oil on a block of cold aluminum, and rub a condom against it 5,000 times a minute. Pour some warm oil on a block of warm aluminum, then try rubbing a condom on it.
By the way, have you seen cold oil? It's nearly in a soild form.
ALWAYS let it warm up for a little bit. CL/TL have really short warm-up time due to some new technology. I read it in the owner's manaul (check it out), but I forgot the details. If you can't wait for a CL/TL to warm up, then oh, boy, try warming up a fucking Mitsubishi. I'm glad I don't have that piece of shit anymore.
Originally posted by VXCL
i thought VTEC doesnt enguage when ur engine is cold. i know im my cl it wont until the engine reaches a certain temp. well for older vtec's n e ways.
i thought VTEC doesnt enguage when ur engine is cold. i know im my cl it wont until the engine reaches a certain temp. well for older vtec's n e ways.
I thought the reason to let the engine warm up was because of the oil, not the temp gauge which is for your antifreeze/coolant. You need about 30 sec (max) for the oil to cycle through the engine from the drip pan.
Originally posted by VXCL
i thought VTEC doesnt enguage when ur engine is cold. i know im my cl it wont until the engine reaches a certain temp. well for older vtec's n e ways.
i thought VTEC doesnt enguage when ur engine is cold. i know im my cl it wont until the engine reaches a certain temp. well for older vtec's n e ways.
I have a dyno to prove that. If you want it, I can uploaded.
Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
It does switch to VTEC, but as it was on the dyno pull, timming is pulled agressively losing some 30 lbft and 30 WHP!
I have a dyno to prove that. If you want it, I can uploaded.
It does switch to VTEC, but as it was on the dyno pull, timming is pulled agressively losing some 30 lbft and 30 WHP!
I have a dyno to prove that. If you want it, I can uploaded.
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From: Miami - just one day, I would like to drive without getting cut off!
Originally posted by Ray Khan
nope....I'm sure there are some good times to be had with your car. Just need to get out of the hole on a cool day....and of course you need to be 100%.
nope....I'm sure there are some good times to be had with your car. Just need to get out of the hole on a cool day....and of course you need to be 100%.
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