clutch kit compatibility ?

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Old 11-15-2020 | 02:10 PM
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FALLiiSTEENY's Avatar
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clutch kit compatibility ?

Iown a CLS6SPD. I know someone selling a complete kit (clutch, plate , flywheel) that was pulled from an accord trans (j30). Would this clutch kit work for my car ? My clutch is nearly done. Thanks everyone. Anyone down for a tri state meet let me know !
Old 11-15-2020 | 03:00 PM
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^
Go to rockauto.com, look up the OEM equivalent LUK brand (clutch, plate , flywheel) part #'s for your CL-S6.
Compare those part #'s to the LUK part #'s of the donor car accord trans (j30) , you speak of, and you will have your answer.
Old 11-15-2020 | 03:40 PM
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thank u . is there anything else i should know or do when changing my clutch ?
Old 11-15-2020 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by FALLiiSTEENY
thank u . is there anything else i should know or do when changing my clutch ?
Depending on the mileage of your car, while you are there change the rear main seal.
Make sure you get the correct flywheel for your CL-S6.
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Old 11-15-2020 | 03:58 PM
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the luk flywheel on rockauto yea . output shaft seal ?
Old 11-15-2020 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by FALLiiSTEENY
the luk flywheel on rockauto yea . output shaft seal ?
Search on the OEM part # for #20 on the link below:

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2003...-block-oil-pan
Old 11-15-2020 | 04:11 PM
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thank you !
Old 11-16-2020 | 01:39 PM
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It's worth changing the throwout bearing while you're in there too.
Old 11-17-2020 | 07:14 PM
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doesnt the clutch pack come w a throwout bearing ?
Old 11-18-2020 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FALLiiSTEENY
doesnt the clutch pack come w a throwout bearing ?
Yes, the LuK kit includes the release bearing. They're less than $20 on their own. Just one of those things to make sure you have when you do the job. Silly to not replace it when you have it all apart, as the cost to go back in isn't worth it. Much the same reason people replace the water pump while doing the timing belt. It may not need to be replaced but may as well for the price while you have everything apart anyways.
Old 11-20-2020 | 04:03 PM
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You should also replace the oil tube o-ring. You have to take the cover off to do the rear main anyways, so you might as well change the $8 o-ring while you're in there. It'll really suck if that leaks when it's all back together. And you'll need a bit of RTV for the cover when you put it back on. You could do the axle seals as well, but you can usually re-use them if you are careful putting the axles back in. If they are all hardened up with age, replace them. They are also inexpensive, so it's probably best practice to just go ahead and replace those too. I re-used mine and they haven't leaked, but you might not be so lucky. You're also technically not supposed to re-use the axle nuts; I always do and it's always fine.

Edit: I forgot to mention the (pilot?) bearing in the middle of the dual-mass flywheel. It's super cheap on its own, but the LUK kit I used for mine included that bearing.
Old 01-02-2021 | 02:46 PM
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I have a new clutchmasters kit I haven't installed yet. Anybody have any experience with this brand?
Old 03-15-2021 | 11:15 PM
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Yes, CM Stage 3 and LFW, but coincidently got P0336 on first start. Swapped CKP B sensor and waiting to see if comes back.

As to OP post #3, I also put in new axles for peace of mind, mostly due high miles, dry boots and minimal investment
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