Clutch Damper & Slave Cylinder Check Valve Removal
#1
Clutch Damper & Slave Cylinder Check Valve Removal
I've been procrastinating on removing my clutch damper and slave cylinder check valve. I know a bunch of you did this mod and told me to do it also. I tried looking through some of my threads because I remember someone explaining it. Does anyone have instructions on the removal? It sounds like it's a easy job to do and I finally want to do it lol.
#2
Thats for check valve removal damper is on the way from the clutch master cylinder before the rubber line which you can replace for ss one as well.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/113-removal-slave-cylinder-check-valve-734300/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/113-removal-slave-cylinder-check-valve-734300/
#4
Thats for check valve removal damper is on the way from the clutch master cylinder before the rubber line which you can replace for ss one as well.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=734300
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=734300
Lol I returned those gay bushings as soon as my brand new oem ones came in. It feels a lot better now. I'm sure I will like it. It will feel how the clutch should of came from the factory lol.
#7
Excelerate sells one called techna fit. I looked on corsport site and they call it the same thing so I'm assuming it is. It doesn't cost that much either.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-490167.aspx
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-490167.aspx
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#10
Newbie questions: How do different clutch lines affect shifting (ie. quicker/ smoother shifting?) and what are the purpose of the bushings? My first manual and it feels good but fi I can improve it and feed the mod bug Im game.
#11
Rubber brake/clutch lines swell when pressure is applied. SS lines dont, so all the power that you are feeding into the pedal goes straight to the slave cylinder.
Same with the bushings - rubber has a bit of give, the solid bushings obviously dont. I recommend the Hybrid Racing bushings. I used to have the Corsports but switched a few months ago. Huge difference.
The following users liked this post:
drillzzz (03-04-2012)
#12
It firms up everything.
Rubber brake/clutch lines swell when pressure is applied. SS lines dont, so all the power that you are feeding into the pedal goes straight to the slave cylinder.
Same with the bushings - rubber has a bit of give, the solid bushings obviously dont. I recommend the Hybrid Racing bushings. I used to have the Corsports but switched a few months ago. Huge difference.
Rubber brake/clutch lines swell when pressure is applied. SS lines dont, so all the power that you are feeding into the pedal goes straight to the slave cylinder.
Same with the bushings - rubber has a bit of give, the solid bushings obviously dont. I recommend the Hybrid Racing bushings. I used to have the Corsports but switched a few months ago. Huge difference.
#13
If there is a chance for that, Im sure it wouldve sprung up on someones car by now.
If anything, going with solid bushings makes the shifter more precise, so you know its perfectly slotted in gear before letting the clutch out.
And remove the clutch dampening device and the slave cylinder check valve is actually better for the clutch. Honda put it in there to slow down the fluid return for a smoother drive. In doing so, it effectively slips the clutch - reducing life span, especially if you do WOT high RPM shifting. Removing those two devices makes the fluid push and pull exactly when you tell it to. Some prefer leaving the check valve and dampening device in due to vibrations in the pedal. I prefer it out as you actually feel the clutch.
Also, if you are going to install an aftermarket clutch, removing the check valve and the damper is a requirement.
If anything, going with solid bushings makes the shifter more precise, so you know its perfectly slotted in gear before letting the clutch out.
And remove the clutch dampening device and the slave cylinder check valve is actually better for the clutch. Honda put it in there to slow down the fluid return for a smoother drive. In doing so, it effectively slips the clutch - reducing life span, especially if you do WOT high RPM shifting. Removing those two devices makes the fluid push and pull exactly when you tell it to. Some prefer leaving the check valve and dampening device in due to vibrations in the pedal. I prefer it out as you actually feel the clutch.
Also, if you are going to install an aftermarket clutch, removing the check valve and the damper is a requirement.
#15
Well, youre not supposed to rest your foot on the clutch pedal, so Id say its not noticeable at all.
As for vibrations while driving normally, Im not the right person to ask. Im no longer running a factory clutch, plus Ive had the damper and check valve removed for a very long time. Also, my car background starts with cable actuated clutches, so naturally Im used to feedback in the pedal.
As for vibrations while driving normally, Im not the right person to ask. Im no longer running a factory clutch, plus Ive had the damper and check valve removed for a very long time. Also, my car background starts with cable actuated clutches, so naturally Im used to feedback in the pedal.
#16
I agree with civicdrivr go with the hybrid racing bushings like I did you won't be disappointed. I ordered my ss clutch hose last night from corsport so once that comes in I'll do it all once. I'll let you guys know how it feels thanks.
#17
Well, youre not supposed to rest your foot on the clutch pedal, so Id say its not noticeable at all.
As for vibrations while driving normally, Im not the right person to ask. Im no longer running a factory clutch, plus Ive had the damper and check valve removed for a very long time. Also, my car background starts with cable actuated clutches, so naturally Im used to feedback in the pedal.
As for vibrations while driving normally, Im not the right person to ask. Im no longer running a factory clutch, plus Ive had the damper and check valve removed for a very long time. Also, my car background starts with cable actuated clutches, so naturally Im used to feedback in the pedal.
I think I am going to order bushings and ss line and do the mod, I am just hoping it doesn't mess up my car. I get that I will have to relearn the clutch a little bit I am just concerned that it will be super rough at first.
Will this make the tires spin more easily? I find that sometimes if I accidentally get too on it the tires wont completely break, and then the entire car will shudder and cavitate almost as the tires try to break, not a good feeling!! So I'm thinking that this might be because of the check valve.
#18
That shuddering is probably wheel hop. Try not to do it much, wheel hop is not friendly to the driveline. The best way to get rid of wheel hop is suspension, followed by stiffer mounts and radius rod bushings.
The SS line and bushings wont harm the car. Ive had them in my car for 70-80k miles now.
The SS line and bushings wont harm the car. Ive had them in my car for 70-80k miles now.
#19
My clutch hose finally came in today. It made a very noticeable difference. Now the clutch feels like how it should of came from the factory haha. I wish I would of did this mod when I first bought the car since it was so easy to do.
The following users liked this post:
civicdrivr (03-13-2012)
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